Cowshed Bay to Pelorus Bridge, also known as Te Araroa LASH Day 6

My last day on the Queen Charlotte Track coincided with the Waitangi Day long weekend. This was particularly fantastic news for my hitchhiking plan once the track was done and dusted, as all the Kiwis and their dogs would be out enjoying this beautiful country.

I woke up early and destroyed my overnight oats while curled up in my quilt. I have to say that I am a big fan of this cold soak food strategy so far. Making breakfast the night before and literally having to just wake up, take the lid off my jar, and start eating a delicious, high-calorie meal while I’m still in bed is great.

Another perfect morning unfolded as I hit the trail again. The easy ups and downs led me to stunning views. One of the easiest trails in the country which of course attracts many weekend warriors, especially on a long weekend.

As the morning warmed up, I started to see many New Zealanders traveling for the long weekend hiking the trail. Some mountain bikers also started passing by and it seemed like most people were having a great time.

Today’s route has brought no surprises, just like the previous two. The trail is in excellent condition, very well maintained and fully accessible to everyone.

It was so easy that I was surprised when I reached the end of the trail after 21 km before lunch. I found myself emerging from the dense forest toward the small village of Anakiwa, where tiny humans and their caretakers splashed around in the sheltered bay.

Hitchhiking in New Zealand

For those who don’t know my trail style, it can be defined as allergic to asphalt. I saw the hard surface as I left the forest and instantly felt sad.

Still, there was nothing to do. I forged my spirit, said a prayer to the bitumen devil, and began walking across this horrible man-made surface.

One of the ways I combat allergies is to move my thumb away from my body every time I hear a motor vehicle in the hopes that the occupants of said vehicle will rescue me from the discomfort of the tar. I should add that I also plaster a smile on my face, as that seems to increase the chances of being rescued.

If there’s a country in the world easier to get hooked on than New Zealand, I’ve yet to find it (and I’ve spent a lot of time searching). After traveling down the road for about twenty minutes, a car stopped and a young New Zealand father and his son offered me a ride in their car.

As is often the case in New Zealand, the father apologized to me because he couldn’t take me the full 40km I wanted to travel, but he had to return to the family and could only take me part of the way. It always makes me laugh when the person who picked up the smelly homeless person feels obligated to apologize because he’s not going to the same destination as you.

I was unceremoniously thrown from the vehicle on a main road, next to a gas station. It was a full two minutes before I was picked up by my next rescuer, a man who had been at his gold panning site in the morning and was heading home for lunch. He again apologized for turning left instead of right at the next major intersection. Then he turned right anyway and dropped me off in the middle of Havelock so that it would be easier for me to continue my hitchhiking adventure.

The first car stopped and I stood on tiptoe on the hot pavement. A young man heading to Golden Bay for the weekend gave me a quick ride the last 10km to my destination at Pelorus Bridge. Of course, he didn’t have to apologize because he was passing the turnoff to the campground. He insisted on turning around and dropping me off right at the reception desk so I wouldn’t have to make those annoying walks.

In less than an hour I enjoyed three pulls and was transported along the 40km of road walking that TA purists tend to do between Queen Charlotte Track and Pelorus Forest. Simply sensational.

bounce box

Upon arriving from my door-to-door shuttle, I was warmly greeted by the camp staff and handed my bounce box filled with nine days’ worth of food. It’s been maybe twenty years since I last carried this many days of sustenance on my back, and I’m eternally grateful that my base weight is much lower than it was then.

I somehow stuffed the enormous amount of food into my poor old backpack and then sat back and waited for my devices to charge. If there was ever a time to make sure I was 100% on all my electronics it was now when they should last me ten days.

Camp

As soon as my electrical needs were taken care of, I picked up my backpack. When I say hoist, what I really mean is that I did a squat and then hoped that my legs could push off enough to put the backpack on my backpack. I was dangerously close to 10kg total with the large amounts of food.

Luckily, it was only a short walk to the TA camp area where I quickly collapsed and wondered how people carry more weight than this on a daily basis.

I pitched my tent in a magnificent spot on the Pelorus River, a stretch of water made famous by Legolas jumping from barrel to barrel while shooting arrows at nasty orcs and goblins.

Fortunately, the water was much calmer today and I didn’t have to dodge any aerial projectiles. Oh, except sandflies. The South Island is particularly famous for its population of little demons that will destroy the morale and skin of the strongest of TA hikers.

I decided on my favorite strategy when facing these insects and retreated to my Durston palace.

Throughout the afternoon a few other hikers arrived and much conversation ensued. After consuming a satisfying cold dinner, I relaxed in my tent, looking forward to heading towards one of the highlights of any TA stay, the mighty Richmond Ranges.

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