Getting my trail legs – The Trek

a cold night

It snowed while I was in Franklin, and to stay on schedule, I couldn’t afford many days off. So, let’s get back on the trail. Plus, I’d rather walk in the snow than in the rain. My clothes and sleeping bag dry.

When I arrived at the appropriately named Cold Springs Shelter, it was packed with backpackers and I ended up setting up my tent in the designated area. The designated area was along a ridge above the shelter. My 15 Degree Bag, Polartec Hoodie, Merino Beanie, Merino Long Sleeve Shirt, and Thermal Pants did a decent job of keeping me warm. In other words, everything except my down jacket and hiking pants. I was able to sleep enough.

I made another rookie mistake. In the rush to set up my tent, I didn’t check the wind direction first. Then a 20 degree breeze blew through my tent most of the night. Lesson learned.

Big climbs

There are two steep descents and ascents between Franklin and Smokey Mountain National Park.

If you walk north like me, you first arrive at the NOC (Nantahala Outddor Center).

At the NOC I stayed in a room with bunk beds. I had a bunk bed to myself, electricity, a ceiling lamp and a heater. It looked like a prison cell without guards and with the option to leave of your own free will.

There is a general store, a laundromat, and one or two restaurants, all on one «campus.» The people were very nice and the restaurant in front of the store had excellent pizza.

The climb out of the NOC was challenging: steep and long. Taking a zero day meant my body was fresh and made the climb easier. Walking with the Bourbon Brothers made it entertaining.

A general rule of thumb in this section is to look around 270 degrees while you’re climbing; If you see a mountain higher than where you are, assume you are climbing it. And sometimes you don’t see the highest point until you turn a corner and realize you were climbing a false summit.

Between the NOC and Fontana Dam, the trail had a lot of curves and a relatively decent grade. A welcome respite from the previous 100+ miles.

A few days after leaving the NOC, I arrived in the Fontana Dam area.

I stayed one night at the Hiker Inn (a great place to stay) and then a second night at one of the best shelters on the AT, the Fontana Dam Shelter. Affectionately known as the Fontana Hilton. This shelter has indoor plumbing, hot water and shower. After a couple of weeks on the road, Gain a deep appreciation for indoor plumbing.

The Smokies – Part 1

The next morning, after hiking over Fontana Dam, I entered Smokey Mountain National Park. The climb from the Fontana Dam area to Smokey Mountain National Park is challenging, but many hikers felt it was easier than leaving the NOC. With fresh legs, I I was able to record a personal best, 18 miles.

Gatlinburg is very touristy and commercial. The antithesis of life on the trails. Eating a double burger, Cajun fries, and a large Coke at 5 Guys was a treat.

It was in the Smokies where I first encountered Dr. J. Dr. J received a BS in Materials Science from the University of Illinois and a PhD in Mechanical Engineering from John Hopkins. He is tremendously intelligent and climbs hills like a billy goat. I thought it had a good low gear, but the Dr. J crushes the climbs.

He also plans his breaks, water refills, and meals like, well, an engineer.

Hiking with him through the Smokies helped me discover my trails. We completed the 67 mile stretch from Newfound Gap (207.8) to Hot Springs, North Carolina (275.1) in 4 days. That’s an average of 16.8 miles per day across a section of trail that included hiking in inclement weather conditions and several major climbs and descents.

Following

It’s time to take down the Smokies and then take down North Carolina. In a few weeks, if all goes as planned, I will be in Virginia.

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