Day 4: Rhyl to Colywn Bay
in two in
This morning we left our motel, crossed the street, hit the trail and started walking. Today there is no waiting for taxi rides or three-mile hikes to the trailhead.
Most of our coastal walks have been like this. We would walk directly from inn to inn. Only on rare occasions did we need a ride to or from our accommodation. It’s much nicer to get out the door in the morning. We can also get going an hour or more earlier.
Our taxi drivers have been interesting and have given us some local history and information on good restaurants. Kate usually chats with them and tells them her stories, while I deal with my headphones and wish I had subtitles to read. The accents have been hard on my impaired hearing.
Weather forecast
We’ve had almost perfect weather so far, but we’ve been keeping an eye on the forecast. Rain is expected today starting at 1:00. We had planned a 10.5 mile walk to Porth Eirias. We thought we could beat the storm if we left just after the first breakfast time at 7:30.
The map showed a public facility in Porth Eirias where we could hang out while waiting for our taxi. A possible downside to hopping from inn to inn is that some hosts won’t let you arrive early and some will get a little upset if you arrive late. The British like things to work as planned.
Therefore, finding places to shelter while we wait is important when the weather is bad.
Walk
Once again, we start on a paved path for bicycles and pedestrians. The boardwalk was at the edge of the sandy beach, slightly elevated and separated from the beach by a sturdy four-foot-high concrete boardwalk. On the ocean side of the sea wall, the government had placed miles of huge rocks to protect against erosion.
One of our previous taxi drivers told us that storm surges had periodically flooded towns and farmland before they built the levees and erosion protection.
The Welsh coast at last
The cycle path stretched for 10.5 miles from Rhyl to Porth Eirias (and beyond). But after a few miles the caravans and rides of Rhyl gave way to open pastures. The green hills also moved closer to the coast providing some topographical and visual interest.
The “crowds” also vanished (you know, a few other people in our path). In the end, it was just the coast, the bike path and us.
On a steep slope, a huge 18th This 19th-century estate built in the style of a Norman castle was surrounded by a steep limestone cliff. Then the beach became so narrow that we could hear small waves crashing against the rocks.
Kate looked out at the ocean and noticed that the water had turned sea green instead of the estuary brown we had become accustomed to.
This is what we came to see. We finally felt like we were walking along the coast.
We were still on asphalt instead of a dirt road, but the contrast to the last three days was notable.
Rain
The rain came early. Around 10:00 it started with a light drizzle. Enough to take out our waterproof jackets, but not enough to bother with waterproof pants. But the rain came with a cold headwind, so we both added another base layer. That’s why I carry a backpack. The weather in Wales changes rapidly so we need lots of equipment options.
We walked in intermittent rain for the rest of the walk, except when we stopped for tea and scones at a cafe in Pensarn around 11:00. Spots of sun sometimes appeared in the distance, and more rarely above us, creating spectacular skies that continued to bring more rain.
Puerto Eirias
The local water sports center we saw on the map turned out to be a good restaurant, so we sat down for a late lunch and waited for our taxi. These coastal hikes are very different from backpacking.
After finishing lunch, we both got a little bored waiting in the restaurant lobby. So we decided to call the taxi company to see if we could get an earlier ride to Llandudno where our next B&B was located. No problem, they said. Even better, our host also let us check in early.
Llandudno
Llandudno was as wonderful as Rhyl was not. Quaint Victorian, with tall terraced houses in white and pastel shades along the seafront. A busy downtown shopping area with real shops and more restaurants than we had time to try. And no football hooligans.
The stores even included three outdoor stores where I was able to purchase a new pair of trekking poles and a hat.
New trekking poles
When we left the house, I accidentally grabbed the trekking poles I’d used on the AT, instead of the new pair I’d bought when I got home from Katahdin. I had forgotten that I had bent one of them and that the other was stuck and would no longer extend. So, I had been walking with the bent since Chester. And that was about four inches too short for me.
I used Kate’s canes yesterday and I liked them so much that I decided to end my suffering. Having two poles also allows me to take some of the weight off and relieve the pain in my hip joint.
Milverton House
Our accommodation was the best so far. A friendly host, a charming old house, tastefully decorated, a comfortable bed and a breakfast prepared à la carte. Even better, the neighborhood was so quiet (aside from the seagulls) that we slept with the window open.
This really was the Wales Coast Path experience we had come for.
Besides, don’t you think it’s time we heard from Kate? If so, tune in tomorrow.
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