What the first days on the PCT really feel like: Campo a Julian

Those first days are not what you think. Whether it’s the magnificent views, the beautiful flowers, the adventure, the wonderful people, the challenge, the solitude or the life lessons you are looking for, you will get it all. And more. At least that’s how it was for me.

The road begins with goodbyes.

You know those airport scenes. Mine was exactly one of those. My partner and all my sisters were there to hug me goodbye, and that was touching. I felt a lot of love for them. It is such an intense feeling to have so many people to stay home for or return to these people, and also those with whom I had already said goodbye with a hug. And yet, I felt such a strong desire to get on that plane and go away for six months, to finally be there, promoting the PCT.

And with some final preparations

In San Diego, I had one day to shop, pre-ship a bouncer and a box to Kennedy Meadows, and drop off my suitcase at Goodwill. That was all my last minute preparation. Easy.

I chose to rely on stores along the way instead of planning ahead for resupply boxes. There will be more remote areas where I’ll have to do it, but I’m more of a go-with-the-flow person. Planning is not my thing. Even as a vegetarian, the first few weeks should be fine with whatever you may encounter along the way.

Plus, as an international hiker, the hassle of packing and shipping many packs at once seemed even greater. Especially since I have no idea what I’ll want to eat. Many of the products or brands in grocery stores are unfamiliar to me and I don’t know when my hiker hunger will strike. So I decided to take it easy and walk around the city while I was there.

Then there is day 0

And then the real anticipation began. Day 0, day to get from San Diego to Campo and stay at CLEEF, get to the area where the magic will begin, meet some of my hiking companions and spend my first night in the desert.

I chose to get there with the PCT shuttle so I could pick up an order at REI along the way. When I got to the bus stop, it was easy to see the other hikers arriving. We chatted while waiting for transportation. It was crazy being here. We had not yet started the journey, but the experience had already begun.

At CLEEF I had the honor of meeting Scout and Frodo, the famous hikers and angels of the trail. They hosted CLEEF for only a couple of nights, so I was very lucky. After line dancing, stories and lessons from them and Papa Bear, some sleep, and fantastic pancakes for breakfast, it was time to head to Southern Terminus.

So finally there it is. Day 1

I took my photos, touched the edge and took my first step. I just couldn’t believe it was out there. At the same time, I quickly accepted that this was going to be my life for quite some time. I was ready.

7 lessons I learned on my first stretch

After the overwhelming first few days, some lessons quickly became clear.

First, the desert is not what you think.

It really isn’t. Even if you read about it. It is spectacularly beautiful, with flowers of all colors, green everywhere, cute lizards flying, birds singing and even pine forests. One day, beauty is best seen looking down. The next day, you are blown away by views that cannot be expressed in words. Take pictures and videos, but don’t forget to stop and look.

Secondly, the desert is very hot.

Of course, I knew it. But it’s something else to be out there. While I was able to do high mileage days with lots of elevation gain in the Alps, I couldn’t do the same these first few days due to the heat. I just had to walk less. Instead of choosing breaks based on the views, I now look for shade. I decided at the last minute to bring an umbrella and I love it for breaks. I don’t use it on excursions because the wind is too strong, but for snack time it is a great piece of equipment.

Thirdly, water determines everything.

Here, you walk from one water source to another. How far to the next one? Great, it filters about a liter every 3 to 4 miles, plus a little extra if you’re camping in the middle. Then repeat. FarOut is incredibly useful.

Fourth, the desert makes you dirty.

I mean really dirty. I’m used to sweating and smelling bad without showering in the Alps, it’s okay. But this dust is something else. Even after two showers, I still get my towels dirty. My sun gloves have permanently turned a dusty brown. I brought some compressed towels that expand with a little water and I love them. I mainly use them to clean my feet and legs, and I would definitely recommend bringing something like this.

Fifth, promotions and relegations are misleading.

In the Alps, a 1000 meter climb is steep, complicated and intense, your muscles and your knees hate you, but then that’s it. Here it is different. There are no bumps, it’s not very steep, but you are going up or down all day. It is a completely different type of hiking.

Sixth, do not overload food

It is so readily available in these early days that I could have brought half of what I was carrying. Hiker hunger will come later, but it hasn’t arrived yet.

Seventh, people are strange and wonderful.

Hikers are a very fun group. You have little conversations all day with such a variety of characters that it continues to amaze me. The trail angels are amazing. And as a bonus, I continue to realize how much I love the people of my country now that I won’t see them for a long time.

How were my first days?

After leaving the terminal, the first day felt like a school trip.

I was very excited to be there and that same excitement showed on everyone’s faces. People hid in shady places and at the first water source we all gathered. I kept stopping to admire the flowers, the views, the desert, and to tell others how beautiful everything was. I felt so happy to be there.

I camped at Hauser Creek with other hikers. We had dinner together and went to bed early.

The second day began with a climb to Lake Morena.

And there I experienced my first trail magic. My water filter broke and while I was trying to replace it, the trail angels offered me one from their truck. I felt very relieved. They had all kinds of gear for hikers in trouble and they drove around helping people. After a sandwich at the malt shop, I kept walking.

Day 3 brought a logistical challenge

Camping wasn’t allowed near Mount Laguna and the campground was closed, so I booked a bed there. The hike was surprisingly varied, with winding trails, lush vegetation, and eventually even a pine forest. I love the smell of pine, so this was a treat. It’s hard to believe this is the desert. Mount Laguna was cool and comfortable. I ate a delicious vegan burger, did laundry, took a shower, got foot massages, played Jenga, and relaxed.

Day 4 was incredibly beautiful. And long.

Bad weather was approaching, so I pushed forward more than 20 miles to get as close to Julian as possible. It was exhausting, but the views were amazing. From above I looked at the flat desert and behind it an impressive mountain range. From my tent spot, I watched the sky turn purple and pink over the mountains. Magical. However, the wind kept me awake all night.

Day 5 was difficult because of that.

I was tired, sore and blistered. The bushes scratched my legs all day and my complicated dance moves to avoid them didn’t work. I took more breaks and the views made it worth it. Plus, knowing that day 6 would be zero lifted my spirits. At Scissors Crossing, I was lucky to be given a lift to Julian as soon as I arrived and enjoyed a free slice of cake at Mum’s. What a delight!

Then I got WiFi and bad news. One of my cats had died. I knew it could happen, but it still hurt deeply. She had been with me for 17 years. Being away from home was especially hard that day.

On day 6 he arrived with swollen eyes.

My day zero turned sad, though well fed, because Julian is a great place to fuel those hiker bodies.

First 5 days of the route: simply wow

The first few days were magical, painful, breathtaking, hot and cold, surprising and simply amazing. I’m quickly adapting to trail life and can’t wait for the next stretch.