TA Days 137 to 140: Feeling the Burn along the Motatapu Alpine Track

The Te Araroa app is great, however sometimes not knowing what’s coming can also be a pleasant surprise.

Although even without looking at the elevation graph, the word «alpine» probably indicates a high elevation or many hills. This was certainly the case on the Motatapu track.

The first day from Wānaka to Fern Burn Hut was a bit brutal. I felt sluggish during the walk from town and around Lake Wānaka.

On our way out, we slipped through a crowd of tourists to take an obligatory tram photo next to the Wānaka willow tree. Iconic for growing only in water, the tree is famous for its use as the default computer screen saver.

The walk along the lake went well and we were able to enjoy views of the distant snow-capped peaks in Mount Aspiring National Park. It is always an advantage to have good views of the mountains and know that we will not have to go through the peaks. Normally, when we see steep hills or mountains ahead; It means we will walk for them!

After a nice lunch by the lake, it was time for a short walk to the start of the Motatapu track.

We crossed forests, passed rivers and gradually climbed valleys.

Finally, Fern Burn Hut appeared in the distance. We make a brief descent before going up to the refuge.

After weeks of crowded cabins and campsites, Animal Encounter and Team Chokolade were excited to find a place inside. While I was happy to have the first option on a tent site outside.

Sure enough, more campers continued to arrive. Interestingly, almost everyone was new to us.

Despite being in pain, our 4pm arrival meant an early dinner and time to play some yanith (our favorite card game).

In retrospect, our low morale over the past few weeks due to stressful trail conditions and overcrowding probably could have been better if we had had time to play yanith.

However, long days, long nights, and bad weather or places to play left us without energy or ability to do fun activities. I couldn’t even remember when we had last played in the South Island.

Pulling out the cards was definitely a mood booster for the night.

The next day was the beginning of the real slopes. This also meant that he would have to walk alone.

Knowing it would be hotter and there would be no shelter on the exposed hills, I set off early.

Feeling like a mountain goat, I was in my element heading to the Rose Hut.

Traveling much faster than the time estimate, I was literally running down the hill and hustling to get as close to the cabin as possible before the heat of the day.

Finally, the sun fell over the hills. My pace slowed as the temperatures increased.

There is only one important climb left. Fueled by a now-warm electrolyte drink, I pressed on.

An occasional breeze got me over the last hill and onto the final descent (thank goodness). This last descent seemed to take forever and the walk hurt my knees.

Fortunately, I arrived at camp early. Setting up my tent, before settling in the shade of the cabin’s porch.

I briefly visited a NOBO, before painting a watercolor and watching the other hikers slowly descend like little specks down the hill toward camp.

With things scattered around me, I found solace on the porch until after dinner, when it cooled down enough for me to settle into my tent for the night.

From Roses cabin we made a long, final push over the hills to Arrowtown.

Even though there was an alternative along the river, I got tired of walking along the river and took the high path. Somehow, literally walking through spiky gorse still seemed better than three miles of cold water.

As a hill lover, I was much faster on this dry route despite the overgrown trail. I had an unexpected fall, when the ground gave way under my foot; sending me to the ground. It’s not the first time it’s happened to me at TA.

Fortunately, I got down safely; Arriving at the Arrow River for the mandatory river crossing to the historic mining camp of Macetown.

Since I didn’t want to get my feet wet, I took off my socks and shoes to cross in my sandals. Unfortunately, as soon as I put them back on, I realized there was another crossing right after.

I didn’t bother taking them off again, so I dove straight into the water. They would eventually dry out as it was getting hotter.

Although it is now abandoned, I enjoyed learning about Macetown’s gold mining history and seeing the remains of some buildings.

Past Macetown there were a few more river crossings before crossing more hills.

The GPS markings on the TA map were slightly off for this section. Add to that the fact that there were multiple routes to Arrowtown and it was confusing where to go.

At one point I came to a crossroads. The options were a gentle, easy trail, or straight up and over the «Big Hill.»

No, I’m not making this up… it’s literally the big hill. As expected, the TA took us up and down, rather than a gradual walk.

Arriving at the hill at 12:30, I had a long, hot walk.

From above, I could glimpse Arrowtown in the distance. After a quick call with my parents to show them the sights, I continued on.

Despite being able to see the city, it took several hours to arrive.

At 15:30 I finally reached the outskirts. With five kilometers to go, I tried to hide until it got cooler.

To kill time, I took a look at the historic mining area of ​​China Camp.

Then, I went for a walk to the main street. By now, hunger was at my door.

I bought a vegan curry cake and a scoop of chocolate and cappuccino ice cream, before retiring to a shady bench outside.

I sat there for quite a while, eating snacks and people watching while I waited for my friends to arrive.

Finally, Animal Encounter came to town. He ran some errands and also bought some ice cream.

By this time, the sun had begun to set, making for a pleasant evening walk.

We traveled on paved roads and crossed a golf course. After a few kilometers and a small detour from the track we reached our destination.

I was definitely defeated by the twelve-hour day and several weeks of bad sleep. The next two nights we would stay at the house of a friend from Animal Encounter. I couldn’t wait to sleep in a real bed and not have to wake up super early!

The next morning, Animal Encounter and I hit the TA trail again. This time walking with almost empty backpacks towards the outskirts of Queenstown. We met Team Chokolade at the store to resupply and purchase food to prepare dinner for our hosts, before taking the bus back to Arrowtown.

Despite walking only 14 km, it seemed quite long to me. Although it’s not a rest day, hopefully covering the extra distance will allow us to walk through Queenstown and reach the start of the Greenstone track tomorrow.

Cheers to delicious food, friendship and amazing Kiwi hospitality!