Chapter 12: In which she sings in the rain.

sore bones

I wake up at 06:03, after my alarm has been desperately trying to get me to move for three full minutes. But finally I’m fast asleep. And it has been a brief and wonderful dream. Although, according to my Tramily, she snores very much.

Sleeping last night was painful. My tired bones ached. I’m not kidding. My bones. I took ibuprofen and melatonin and it still took me at least a painful hour to fall asleep. Although not for long. I probably tried every sleeping position you can have in a hammock, but no maneuver relieved the pain. So when I finally fell fast asleep shortly after midnight, I appreciated it.

I would certainly be getting at least half an hour of sleep (probably closer to an hour and a half) if it weren’t for the fact that I’m on the Appalachian Trail and spend my days with some amazing friends. And we have a plan: get to Fresh Grounds, who is rumored to be spending a few days next to Fontana Dam. Maybe we’ll arrive in time to have breakfast with other hikers? That’s the plan, at least. And it will be about 4 nero miles before zero, giving our bodies a proper rest before heading into the Smokies.

I’m looking forward to the Smokies. I have heard of it as a cold place that “you just have to walk through.” I’m not sure I’d end up agreeing with that, though. It could be almost magical.

Singing in the rain

As we pack up and get going, I can’t help but smile. It really is true that this adventure is all about people, and I have found some of the best. We put on our backpacks and head north, beginning the descent towards Fontana. As we do this, my belly rumbles a little. I try to silence him with the promise of coffee and a grilled cheese sandwich. I don’t eat breakfast at all and prefer to keep it in the pockets on my hip belt. It soon turns out to be a good decision, as what starts as a few drops of rain turns into a full-blown storm. Somewhere to the north, lightning flashes frequently, and the sound of thunder soon follows.

On a normal occasion, these circumstances would make me feel a little miserable and at least quite worried. But as I walk down the hill with my friends, my headlamp illuminating the wet leaves and slippery roots beneath my feet, I feel safe. And somehow I also feel comfortable. And, above all, I feel a deep sense of satisfaction. I start singing out loud:

“I’m walking in the rain

hiking in the rain.

What a glorious morning

I’m here again.

I will be eating soon

at the Leapfrog cafe,

Until then I’m hiking,

walk in the rain.”

An award-worthy tune, if I do say so myself. As I must, since no one else will.

like at home

Shortly after, we are at the foot of the mountain, traveling the last stretch towards the Fontana Dam refuge (for example, the famous Fontana Hilton). For the first time on this trail I walk next to a lake. It makes me think of home. I live by the ocean and our forests and mountains have many streams, rivers and lakes. I guess that’s the reward for living in one of the rainiest places in all of Europe.

There is a frequent tapping sound in my head as the rain hits the hood of my poncho. My feet are soaked and I make squelching noises as I walk. The lake itself is eerily calm, but all the rain makes it seem like millions of stones are being thrown at once. There isn’t much sign of spring yet and the woods are brown and gray in the morning light. Like at home. For a moment I consider myself feeling nostalgic. Then I have a better idea and instead enjoy what I have there and then.

Fontana Hilton

Shortly after we are at the shelter. Who do we meet here but Butterfly (Josephine from Switzerland) and Family (a lovely family: mom, dad and two amazing children)?

Josephine informs us that she is heading to the Smokies this morning. We met on our first day: in Amicalola Falls. He is doing very well with all the walks, but he hasn’t found his people yet. I know he’s hoping to find someone his age (he’s 18/19), but there haven’t been many around yet. I assume they will start in the bubble and therefore be at least a week or two behind it. Of course, she would be welcome to stay with us, but she is already doing 14 to 17 mile days. That’s too fast for me yet. I might be able to hit those numbers in a week or three, but for now my body is still getting used to the 9 to 11 miles I’m doing. Maybe I’ll catch up with her at some point. That would be amazing!

The frog has left the building.

I wish I could end this blog post with a photo of a happy penguin, sitting in a chair eating a huge grilled cheese sandwich. However, I can’t. Because it turns out FreshGrounds had left the day before and our morning adventure was for nothing. Still, I consider it an adventure, and as far as I’m concerned, that’s a pretty good reason in itself.

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