First days of my life – AT in AT

The first

To say this trail is humbling would be an understatement. From the beginning you face one challenge after another. Many of mine were caused by over (or under) preparation. As I approached the famous arch with my sister, I ran into a guy who had «thruhiker» written all over him. He introduced himself as Jenga, the name of his trail. Without realizing it, it gave me my first glimpse of what it’s like to be part of this community.

I camped that first night about a quarter mile past Springer Mountain Shelter. Those nine grueling miles were just the beginning. As the night wore on, so did the cold, the first of many obstacles I would learn I hadn’t considered. The wind was crazy, the foam pad and the 40 degree quilt offered no support for my internal temperature. Throughout the night, I added every layer of clothing I had in my backpack. Finally the sun came out and made it official: I survived the first day on the Appalachian Trail.

The following days and nights brought warmer weather. The increase in the sun inevitably caused sunburn and unpleasant irritations. The beauty and excitement of the hike distracted me from any pain in my body (as it usually does). Finding dispersed campsites was definitely my favorite part, the solitude and silence offered a stark contrast to my daily life as a bartender.

I came across Jenga perched on top of a rock outcropping, his camp looking like something out of a magazine. Walking about half a mile I found my own picturesque spot. I made gourmet ramen for dinner and enjoyed a little piece of home: streaming an anime episode.

The bitter truth

The next morning, while brushing my hair, I managed to break my glasses. Naturally, I had broken in my backup pair before embarking on my journey. I checked my backpack for adhesive and settled for the poor quality medical tape in my first aid kit. At this point, I’m not sure anything can stop me. I’m also not sure I really know what I’m doing.

Around the third day of hiking I stumbled upon Neel’s Gap, desperate for supplies to repair my broken heels. The shoes I chose to start betrayed me. They bit my feet until they blistered and demanded that I make some changes. I got a room at the hostel and met several interesting people along the way.

One-Gallon and his companion Laycie remain some of my favorite hikers I’ve ever met, in part because of their role in introducing me to the magic of Leukotape. I also bought a Red Baron pizza and a new pair of shoes that I should have been loyal to all along (Altra Lone Peak, aka my favorite shoes).

After the much-needed readjustment, I lumbered down to my room, took a shower, and washed my dirty clothes. Chatting with fellow hikers was really nice. Learning about the origins of other hikers has become a favorite aspect of this trip for me. The night was very relaxing, especially after my blistered 13 mile run from hell.

The next morning, after getting my free coffee from the Mountain Crossing vendors, I hit the road with a new friend named Gibson. The shelter lent him a guitar that had been donated by a previous hiker. An unnecessary addition to your backpack it turned out to be a good source of entertainment at our campsites and at lunch breaks along the trail. The road so far has been filled with good memories, new friends, and two feet covered in poison ivy (my archenemy).

Beauty in pain

My first stop in the city was Hiawassee. I bought a belt immediately because one week my pants were already falling off. The bus driver told us about a brewery that made burgers and supplied local beef. I knew that’s what I’d be eating, even after devouring two of their homemade macadamia nut cookies (my first taste of trail magic).

Gibson and I had met another guy at our previous camp, and after singing songs watching the sunset together, we all decided to spend some time in town. After a quick resupply and packing up fresh pico de gallo that Gibson made in the parking lot, we ran to the closest tent site we could find to eat the food that didn’t fit in our bear canisters.

The next day marked a big milestone: crossing the border between Georgia and North Carolina. Passing the first state of the AT propelled me to the campground where Gibson and I met up with the guy we met two nights earlier, Harper. He’s a much faster hiker than the two of us, so when I see him I feel good about my pace.

While at camp, I met a cool hiker named Mountain Goat. She lives in Taiwan but travels to the US for long hikes, having already completed the PCT and CDT! I pick his brain while I eat dinner and at one point I realize that what we are doing is really super badass. People are traveling from other countries to pursue this challenge. In a sense, it fills me with pride that we have something internationally recognized and that people from all walks of life come to enjoy it.

Settle

The next night was my first camping trip in a shelter. Even though the shelter itself was full, I was still able to get to know the community. Until now I had been against that level of socialization, but I accepted it and had a good time. The day before we came up with a plan to resupply and reset in Franklin, North Carolina. Harper, who was much faster than us, arrived hours early at the ferry at Winding Stairs Gap. Gibson and I tried hitchhiking for 30 minutes until a kind couple offered us a ride after filling up water at the spring.

They offered us a ride with one caveat: we had to get into the back of their hatchback with the jugs of water. Their children were in the back seat looking at us in amazement. As we drove down the road, their curiosity got the better of them and they rattled off question after question. At one point, I asked how bad we smelled, to which the kids said, «You actually smell good!» After breaking up with that great family, they dropped us off right at the Sapphire Inn that Harper had booked hours before.

We find our room and Harper instantly offers us a beer. I don’t know if it was the long day of hiking or the sheer craftsmanship of the local brewery, but that was the best beer that ever touched my lips. We spent the night relaxing, eating, and reorganizing our backpacks while we took turns in the shower. The days leading up to my first zero were full of surprises, giving me time to realize my mistakes while also offering me confidence in my ability to kick ass on this path.

Ten days on the road taught me a lot about myself. As I settle into my new life, my perspective on the human experience is shifting at an exponential rate. I can’t wait to see what the next few months have in store! Stay tuned for the next AT chapter on AT.

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