The NOC to Fontana Dam – Day 14-17

The NOC

There are descents, and then there is the drop into the NOC, a descent that feels like the trail is dragging you by the neck directly into the gorge.

We hiked to the NOC, the infamously steep 6-mile descent into Nantahala Gorge. The trail opens at the top with a sharp right turn down some steep rocks, offering a beautiful view of Cheoah Bald and toward the hidden outdoor center along the Nantahala River.

Energizer, Lost and Found and I rushed towards the gap. We were ready for a hot meal and rest for the rest of the day.

We met up with Alex and Cody at the outdoor center. Both had arrived earlier than I expected and were leaving that same day. It was a constant game of cat and mouse trying to catch up, but I knew it would happen eventually. While we were there, I was informed that Chuck and I would not be able to fly to Fontana Dam. It was disappointing, but there would be more opportunities for that later.

Jersey and Bird arrived later in the morning and we decided to have lunch at the Rivers End restaurant. I just smashed a fantastic pizza and we all enjoyed some fresh food and cold drinks. The food was phenomenal and I was very grateful to be done with the day.

After lunch, we walked to the river to soak our feet, which quickly led to everyone taking a dip in the freezing Nantahala River. It felt fantastic, like pressing a reset button on your body.

Finally, we took the shuttle to Rambling Roots, a newer hostel that came highly recommended. Bookie, an amazing woman, gave us the grand tour. Their hostel felt incredibly homely. The showers were amazing, the beds were soft, and the atmosphere felt like you were at your fun aunt’s house.

After a resupply at Dollar General, Lost and Found and I ended up making a stir fry dinner for the group. The laughter mixed with the food made for one of those moments you wish you could repress. I was later taught how to make soft pretzels in the oven and we enjoyed them as dessert.

Never in my life did I expect to be making dinner in a place I’d never been, with people who were strangers just a week ago.

I guess that’s how the road goes.

The first loose package

The NOC climb is rumored to be a brutal 8-mile grind, climbing from Nantahala Gorge to Cheoah Bald and beyond.

Luckily for me and everyone around me, Scott really wanted to help me in that section. He came up with a plan: we would rest from the NOC to Stecoah Gap and then he would take us to the Fontana Hilton shelter for the night. The next day we would return to Stecoah Gap and stop from there to Fontana Dam.

We met him around 9am on the other side of the gorge. We unpacked our backpacks, took only what we needed and left. Just as we were about to leave, Lost and Found realized she had left her water bottles at Bookie’s house. Living up to the name of his trail, he turned around and retrieved his lost bottles.

Energizer and I lead the way up. I flew down the trail, feeling almost weightless without my full backpack. We climbed and climbed and climbed, until we finally reached the top of Cheoah Bald. The view that greeted us was impressive, with long rolling ridges stretching in all directions.

The entire way, one thought kept repeating in my head: I couldn’t imagine doing this with a full resupply.

But like most climbs on the trail, the view was worth every step.

We stayed at the top for about 45 minutes before deciding it was time to move again. The rest of the day took us downhill and at one point I ran almost 3 miles just because I could.

I arrived first at Stecoah Gap, where Scott was waiting for me with cold drinks and a big smile. I had chosen Slack Pack IPA for the team. Once everyone arrived, we got in the car and made the half-hour drive to Fontana Village.

We spent the rest of the night hanging out, sharing stories, and drinking with Scott and other hikers.

The next morning we did it all again.

The ups and downs, the views, the race, all of that. It was another beautiful day of hiking, full of fresh trails and new memories.

I arrived at Fontana Dam around 4 pm, crossing the huge stretch of concrete that contains Fontana Lake, with views stretching into what would soon become the Smokies. Scott was there waiting with a $50 refill for all of us. I had run to the store while we were walking and grabbed what we needed, saving us from the higher prices at the marina and the lodge. He also stopped by the post office and picked up my first care package at home. I was blessed with meals and snacks from Mountain House, a beautifully written letter from my grandmother, and a touching reminder of home.

The day had been quick, with minimal excitement, but it felt incredible to cover that kind of distance without weight on my back.

Tomorrow it would be the Smokies.

I was incredibly excited, having only done the first half before, and now I would finally be able to experience the full stretch of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

I was really starting to feel like I was really hiking the Appalachian Trail.

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