How Northern Oregon Made Me Fall in Love with the PCT

My first section on the Pacific Crest Trail was perfect. There is nothing I would have changed. Last August, I hiked 200 miles through northern Oregon and, along the way, fell in love with the PCT.

After completing the Appalachian Trail in sections in 2024, I was more than eager to get started on the PCT right away. In fact, before I even finished the AT, I was already making plans for the PCT. But with a busy year filled with wedding travel and work, it took a while for the pieces to fall into place. When I finally found a window on my calendar, I didn’t hesitate to block it for the PCT.

Get to the starting line

When choosing which section would be the first, I decided on Oregon. I read that it was generally considered easier than other sections and I didn’t want to start with the most challenging section. I originally planned to fly into Ashland and hike north before leaving Bend. Then, I had a wedding in New Jersey in early August and decided to take advantage of the proximity of a major airport to book a direct flight from Newark to Portland.

So after a weekend of wedding celebrations, I handed my family my duffel bag filled with everything I wouldn’t need on the trail and headed to the airport with just my hiking gear. When I arrived in Portland and walked the iconic airport carpet, I felt excitement wash over me.

Walking the iconic Portland airport carpet

I spent the night in a hotel in Portland before taking an Uber to the transit center the next morning. There, I boarded the Columbia Gorge Express bus and stopped first at Multnomah Falls to see Oregon’s tallest waterfall. I spent an hour visiting the waterfall and enjoying a second breakfast before taking the next bus to Cascade Locks.

Although the early bus from Portland to Multnomah Falls had only a few travelers, the mid-morning bus to Cascade Locks was packed with hikers. I was already in the right place.

After the scenic drive through the Columbia River Gorge, we arrived at the small town of Cascade Locks. I got off the bus and started walking towards the trail.

The 2,655-mile journey begins with a single step

Even though I was running SOBO, I was looking forward to officially starting my journey on the PCT by crossing the Bridge of the Gods. That meant I had to cross it twice to take a photo in front of the sign on the Washington River side. As I approached the bridge, I saw my first PCT sign!

My first PCT sign

Some hikers have been inspired to climb the PCT by the book and movie. Wild. I had recently watched the movie in anticipation of this section hike, so I knew this bridge was where Cheryl Strayed ended her PCT trip. How fitting that this iconic bridge was where I started mine.

Starting my journey on the PCT!

Then I began to cross the bridge to begin the first leg of my journey. My first steps across the bridge were memorable. The bridge was much higher above the water than I expected, and although the mountain views were distracting, the wind and lack of a pedestrian lane kept me focused on where I was walking.

My first steps on the PCT across the Bridge of the Gods, which was much higher over the river than I expected

Crossing the incredible Bridge of the Gods

When I turned onto Eagle Creek Alternative, I followed the trail into a beautiful gorge with waterfalls everywhere. My favorite waterfall, however, was Tunnel Falls. Multnomah Falls and Tunnel Falls, two waterfalls I always wanted to visit in one day? It was a dream come true.

Eagle Creek Gorge Alternative

It was hard to choose just a few photos of Eagle Creek Alternative since there were so many beautiful waterfalls.

Seeing Tunnel Falls was a dream come true

Normally, I’m a serious, high-mileage type of hiker and I wouldn’t have taken my time. However, I had a reservation at Timberline Lodge, which based on mileage made this stretch take about two and a half days. It also gave me a margin of safety in case there was any disruption to the trip to get to the trail.

After about twelve miles, I set up camp early that day at a large site next to Eagle Creek. What a fantastic first half day on the PCT!

My first Tramily

Up to this point, I have hiked alone on my section hikes. I completed the entire Appalachian Trail solo. It’s not that I wouldn’t want to walk with anyone, but it’s hard to find a partner who walks at the same pace and mileage and is also willing to spend a lot of money and vacation time to walk all day and sleep on the floor. I thought the PCT would be the same.

Unbeknownst to me, about an hour after crossing the Bridge of the Gods, my future hiking partner, Brady, also left Cascade Locks SOBO. Luckily, we met up the next day, just after the steep climb of the Indian Springs Trail that connected Eagle Creek Alternate to the official PCT. I saw him behind me and moved to the side, assuming he was much faster than me as a hiker compared to my weaker section hiker legs.

After his death, I tripped on a tree root and fell on my face. Of course the only time I fell was in front of someone else!

In fact, we ended up walking at about the same pace and he seemed interested in having someone to walk with. It turned out we had a lot in common. We were both from the East Coast, had a background in science, were passionate about hiking (obviously), and loved visiting national parks.

My new hiking buddy, Brady, with our first views of Mount Hood

I quickly discovered all the joys of having a tram, something I had missed until this point. It was so fun to connect with someone as similar as a new trail friend. Over the next few days, as we approached Mount Hood, we talked about everything under the sun (literally) all day long.

Making a new trail friend was one of the many reasons I loved this section of the PCT.

A good hiking buddy is not only someone who walks at the same pace and mileage, but also matches your level of willingness to spend money in the city. Fortunately, another similarity we shared was that we were both platinum blazers. I had already reserved a room at the Timberline Lodge and Brady was able to get the last available room that night. We were able to enjoy the famous dinner and free breakfast. It was expensive, but the food, a hot shower after a rainy day, and a comfortable bed were worth it.

Splurge on a room at the historic Timberline Lodge

Enjoying the famous free breakfast at the Timberline Lodge

We also jumped with other SOBO hikers along the way, and I really appreciated connecting with them as well. Also, I had some friends hiking NOBO last year and it was great to meet one of them on the trail. Through these connections, I realized that the trail community was a big part of my growing love for the PCT.

Meeting one of my friends on the way.

The beauty of northern Oregon

PCT hikers often report that the Sierra and Washington are some of the most beautiful sections of the PCT. I felt like Oregon was talked about less. But as someone coming from the East Coast, the landscape was completely new to me. Volcanoes, stunning wildflowers, tons of waterfalls, glaciers, beautiful lakes, and mountains so different from my country – it was like nothing I had ever experienced before. Even the burned areas of previous forest fires were striking and unfamiliar to me.

One of the burned areas we walked through.

We really enjoyed taking in all that Oregon had to offer as we descended Mt. Hood towards a beautiful forest and endless lakes. We stopped at Little Crater Lake, had lunch at Ollalie Lake, and camped at Timothy Lake, Rockpile Lake, and Big Lake Youth Camp.

Lake Ollalie, where we stopped to resupply

Sunrise at Rockpile Lake, where we camped.

Every sight left us speechless. Some that stuck out to me were Jefferson Park and Three-Fingered Jack.

Sunset over Mount Jefferson

Jefferson Park had so many amazing wildflowers

Sunrise in Jefferson Park

Three-Fingered Jack, one of our favorite peaks (photo taken by Brady)

There were some tougher days when we experienced a heat wave. Walking through burnt areas and long stretches of black lava rock in the hot sun was mentally and physically exhausting. But we ran into a group of llama hikers, which made my day, and it was fascinating to see the lava rock. Even with the heat, it was impossible not to fall a little more in love with the PCT each day, surrounded by incredible landscapes, people, and terrain.

Seeing a group of hikers with llamas made my day during a heat wave.

A section of the trail with a lot of lava rock, which we found very interesting.

The finish line

I was very sad to see this section come to an end. Truly, they were the ten best days of my life.

I finished this section by stopping at Elk Lake Resort for lunch and a ride to Bend. Before the trip, I had connected with an angel who was passing through the area to Bend for a Lumineers concert. Brady and a couple of hikers ended up joining me on the trip to Bend. Brady and I were dropped off at Emma’s house, where we spent the night with her three beautiful goldendoodles and a few other hikers. We had dinner in Bend and explored the city a bit.

Finish my hike section with a smoothie at Elk Lake while I wait for my ride to Bend

One of three adorable goldendoodles at Emma’s home in Bend.

The next morning, it was time to say our bittersweet goodbye as Brady continued his walk and I took an Uber to the airport to fly home. It was definitely a culture shock re-entering civilization after such an incredible ten days in the desert.

Falling in love with the PCT, one section at a time

When I said there was nothing I would change about this trip… okay, I lied. I wish I had realized there was a Lumineers concert the night I was in Bend because I would have bought a ticket. I also wish I could have gone skiing on Mount Hood and floated down the Deschutes River, but I had limited time for this section and couldn’t stay another day.

Still, I had an amazing time. This section was 200 miles filled with laughter, the best views I have ever seen, beautiful wildflowers, waterfalls and volcanoes. Every day in this section blew me away.

Overall, I’m very grateful that the weather was ideal (aside from a couple of warmer days), we didn’t encounter any forest fires, I didn’t suffer any injuries or illnesses, and I had no problems getting on or off the trail. I’m also incredibly grateful that I got to experience my first tram on this trip and how fun it was to have a walking buddy. Smiling and laughing all day for ten days straight really changes your brain chemistry.

I always knew I would love the PCT. I can’t wait to fall in love with this trail even more as I continue my journey to complete it, one section at a time.