The Roan Highlands are one of the most anticipated sections of the Appalachian Trail. Fir forests, grassy areas and incredible views are just a few of the things that make this area worthy of so much attention. This was my stay in the Roan Highlands.
Helene Detour
Between miles 360 and 366 of the trail, the damage caused by Hurricane Helene was so severe that the trail had to be temporarily rerouted. The six-mile detour begins with a pleasant walk through a rural residential neighborhood. I found this section to be a nice change of scenery from the forested slopes we had been traveling through.
One of the many areas damaged by Helene
In the end, the detour made up for the elevation loss and we were forced to climb an incredibly steep hillside. Temporary logs were placed, but they looked more like a ladder than a ladder. Each step required the full strength of my calf muscles and my Achilles tendon threatened to rupture. I didn’t dare look down until I reached the top.
I swear, it was steeper than it looks.
the garden
Once we got back to the AT, we almost collapsed at the first campsite we found. The Orchard is an area maintained by a kind man we met named Towhee, and he built us a campfire to keep warm. I stood by the fire, half-delirious from the climb, slowly turning my body like a roast chicken.
My gourmet dinner (noodles with mushrooms and peanuts) and camping.
The area is grassy, but Towhee regularly mows walking trails and tent sites through the tall grass. He asked us where we wanted to sleep and then used his scythe to cut a perfect square for each of us.
Being a hammocker, I decided to cowboy camp that night. This was one of the coldest nights I’ve faced on the trail so far, and it quickly became unpleasant. I waited impatiently for morning to come so I could pack my bags and start walking just to warm up. When I finally had enough light to see, I got up to find my quilt and backpack covered in a thin layer of ice.
Ruan High Knob
Climbing the first major peak was quite a challenge. 2,300 feet over 4.8 miles may not sound that bad, but when combined with lack of sleep and sore calves, every step becomes hard work. I got halfway up the climb to a camping area and met my trail friend there. We both discovered that we like to walk together during steep climbs and take short ten-second breaks every few steps. We reached the top, slowly but surely.
Dawn on the knob
At some point during the climb, the forest changed completely. The hardwoods disappeared and suddenly everything seemed dark, dense and almost prehistoric. Moss covered every tree and the ground was soft with decaying needles. The southern spruce and spruce ecosystem here is apparently quite rare and contains some critically endangered species, such as the southern Appalachian flying squirrel and the Fraser spruce spider. I didn’t have the pleasure of seeing any of these species, but the forest itself was fascinating. It reminded me more of northern Vermont than what I normally think of as North Carolina.
magic trail
Coming down from Roan High Knob, we arrived at Carvers Gap early in the morning. I arrived just as a group from Nansemond River Baptist Church was setting up magical trails. After a few days of being constantly cold, I was delighted to eat fresh pancakes with a healthy amount of butter and syrup. They also had all kinds of supplies that were much needed.
Trail magic!
Over all, the company was excellent and I spent almost two hours chatting with the trail angels.
Bald
The Roan Highlands include a series of bald spots: mountain tops that lack trees and are instead covered with grass and low shrubs. These are unique features found only in the southern Appalachians.
Roan Highlands Baldies
On top of Hump Mountain
Entering the open bald patches after days in the woods was like taking a deep breath. I could feel the sun on my face again and I even decided to wear my hat again. The breeze kept me moving; Otherwise, I could have stood for hours admiring the open views and watching the tall grass sway in the wind.
Appalachian Station
With a few stormy days ahead of us, my friends and I decided to spend a night at the Appalachian Station Hostel (19E). I especially enjoyed my chicken parmesan sandwich at the bar downstairs and topped it off with a thigh ice cream.
Hitchhiking to the hostel
The group moved upstairs, where some people showered and washed clothes while others played chess. The owners also have chickens on the property, so naturally I took one and pretended it was one of my chickens, who I miss very much.
We also chose to have breakfast at the lodge, which was a real hiker’s portion of eggs, bacon, biscuits and gravy and muffins. I couldn’t ask for a better end to my stay in the Highlands.
Rose, Thorn, Bud
Pink
Walking up and over each of the bald heads. The views were incredible and it was a very refreshing change of scenery and terrain.
Thorn
Cold weather, which meant sleeping worse than I would have liked.
Outbreak
Damascus Marathon!
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