Japan Southern Alps Traverse Day 1

Can you tell he was always late for the school bus?

To begin the nobo Southern Alps trek, you need to take a bus from Shizuoka to the Shirakabaso hot springs. There is one bus connection a day and I have missed it.

Or actually, he was lazy. After arriving from Narita Airport at 9pm the night before, I still had to resupply, ship my suitcase, wash my hair and I just didn’t feel like rushing this trip.

Take the bus, but hurry or waste time and hitchhike? There is only one answer.

Furtively on my walk

After a local bus, a walk along the road and hitchhiking, it was almost five in the afternoon when I finally passed the entrance gate to the biosphere reserve. The golden light of the evening has already turned to shades of gray (pun intended?). Some construction workers were finishing up their day and I tried to blend in. It was a little late to head into the mountains and I knew I would be doing an overnight hike. Nothing that worries me personally, but usually other people do.

“Sumimasen”, I hear behind me, and I realize instantly: my plan didn’t work.

A short man runs down the gravel road.

“Konichiwa«I greet him with a wide, confident smile. I’m not doing anything wrong that I know of.

He’s short but slim, around 40 if I had to guess. He asks me in Japanese if I speak Japanese, which I don’t, but that’s one of the few Japanese phrases I understand.

“Sumimasen«, I’m sorry.

He asks me which mountain I’m heading to.

I show you the first nearest route peak on my map: Mount Chausu. I didn’t mention the crossing of the Southern Alps.

The man nods and then makes a sleeping gesture with his hands.

“Camp,” I say and point to a different spot on the map, where a small wooden shelter is supposed to be (I have no idea if it’s open, but I got my trusty tarp).

Search and Rescue

At this moment, two younger men come down the road to join him. Although they don’t seem to speak much English either.

They point to my backpack.

“Sleeping bag, tent, stove, headlamp,” I do my best to explain my equipment using hand gestures and briefly consider taking it all out to show him.

“3 hours,” he explains, pointing to my map, 3 hours to get to the shelter.

“Daijoubu«No problem,» I reply, still smiling. The three men look at me amused.

“Mountain search and rescue,” he points to his chest.

“sugoi «I smile wider. Now I understand why you are here, questioning me.

Wild and reckless

“Are you driving here?” he pretends to grab a steering wheel.

“Hitchhike,” I say, extending my thumb. The man moans playfully. At that moment, he must have realized that I was wild and reckless.

A glance at my phone reveals that I have enough service for Google Translate.

«I understand your concern. I have a lot of experience hiking and will be careful. I’m open to other camping spots,» he reads the translation, nods and looks at me. Examining. Reading. I smile, relaxed and confident. I’m not worried about night hikes alone. As I head to the mountains, I leave behind everything that scared me. There is danger, there always is, but I do not fear it.

I patiently await your decision. I can tell by the look on his face that he is torn. Of course, it would be great to get a head start tonight, but I’m not going to push my schedule. I will respect what he says. And I realized that he was simply concerned, that he was not trying to execute his authority.

But there was something else on his face besides his genuine concern for my safety: he mirrored my smile. And the two younger men to his left and right didn’t seem angry or upset either. There was a hint of curiosity in his eyes. And that was my opportunity.

Good luck or be safe or both?

And after a few more seconds of hesitation, he releases me with a “Daijoubu«, his hands fold in prayer and he nods, the men next to him do the same, they say something in Japanese, which always means good luck or being safe. And I thank them, bow and return to my walk.

Shortly afterwards I cross the Hatanagi suspension bridge and, as the path enters the forest, I understand their concern. The trail is steep and narrow, partially washed out. Ropes and chains provide some support, but it’s definitely not easy during the day, let alone in the dark.

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