Second week in AT: Flowers everywhere

This week, flowers have really taken center stage along the trail in Georgia and North Carolina.

First, the vibrant purple wild violets, before most of the rest. What a pretty color!

Trillium – At least 4-5 species are flowering, from the large white Trillium grandiflora to the «common» purple and yellow varieties, often 3 distinct species growing side by side. These plants are interesting for several reasons. First, as their name suggests, they have 3 of everything: 3 leaves, 3 petals, 3 sepals, etc. They are also intriguing because, due to their complicated reproduction, it takes at least 6 years to go from seed to flower!

Then there are the “strange” flowers, like the Canadian louse (once thought to give lice to cattle) and the squawroot (bear corn or cancer root), which seem so strange and out of place, as if they belong in the desert. Squawroot is a parasitic plant without chlorophyll. The yellowish conical structure sticking out of the ground is its stem, covered in tiny flowers that are easy to miss. It was so called because it was once used to treat menstrual problems.

The lily enhances the environment with its yellow touch. Of course, the bluets continue to impress me and are probably my favorite. They align themselves towards the light so that the entire group of flowers appears to be looking at the same thing. Are they looking at me?

I am fascinated by how much flowers vary depending on altitude and which side of the mountain I am on. Furthermore, one day the fields are full of one type of flower and the next day a completely different type of flower has bloomed.

I hear people complain that the “green tunnel” is boring and that there aren’t enough “views.” It’s true that I have to look at the ground when I’m hiking or else I’ll trip and fall on my face! However, I see all these wonderful things: flowers, mushrooms, various bugs and more. It’s anything but boring!

Second week events:

Day 8 4/9 Tray Mt Shelter 58.4 to Deep Gap Shelter 65.8; 7.4 miles traveled

This was an exhausting day, up and up and up! I was hot in my tights and sun shirt. During the day, I “jumped” Adrian and his partner several times. They are FL hikers who train by walking across bridges, the highest points to climb!

I couldn’t make it to my scheduled pick up point at Dick’s Gap, so I stopped at Deep Gap Shelter, which was a little off the trail, but there was a good water source right on the trail and there were plenty of good tent sites to choose from. At the shelter I met a couple of young women, one of whom had extremely short hair. I showed her my photo of my head being shaved when I was deployed to Saudi Arabia in 1996. She responded, «Wow, you’re so cool!» It made me realize how invisible I am as an “old woman.” We generally don’t share much about our «normal life» on the road, so it’s easy to jump to conclusions about each other based on superficial appearances. In contrast, I also met Ibraham, a self-described Lebanese American who talked about himself non-stop, which was notable for how unusual it was.

Day 9 4/10 Deep Gap Shelter 65.8 to Dick’s Creek Gap 69.3; 3.7 miles

Today I was out and about with Fireball, who I met on the first day. Since it became clear that he would beat me to the meeting place with Heather, I asked him to tell her I was on his way and texted him to give him a cold Coke. There’s nothing better for a hot hiker than a cold drink. I found them chatting happily when I caught up with them.

Heather was only there to deliver supplies; I wasn’t planning on going off track. However, I felt beat up from the day before and Heather was very sick with a bad cough. Remembering how sick I was with pneumonia just 3 years ago made me nervous, so I decided to leave the road until I was convinced that I didn’t need medical treatment.

I got a pretty bad sunburn on parts of my hands, arms and legs. The sun shirt helps, but it’s hot and doesn’t completely cover my hands. I brought sunscreen, but it’s unpleasant to use in the heat and dirt of the trail. My dermatologist wouldn’t approve, but I hope this problem will be resolved once the trees grow leaves.

Day 10 4/11 zero

Heather spent the day in bed, but I was relieved that she seemed a little better the next morning.

Day 11 4/12 Dicks Creek Gap 69.3 to Bly Gap 78.4 11.1 miles

Today is a historic day: I arrived at the North Carolina state line! Somehow less dramatic than on my AT 1.0, but exciting nonetheless!

Poison ivy EVERYWHERE! I’ve never seen so much! It strikes me that the vegetation varies from day to day. It’s like new things come up every night while we sleep.

When I packed up again at the hotel this morning, I forgot my tent poles! Fortunately, I camped with other women who were eager to help me. This humbled me as the problem was my fault. Hatchet, a quiet young woman, built a shelter over the parts of my tent using the waterproof tarp from her hammock. It worked extremely well!

I also met Lisa, called Flea Market, a cheerful woman from Maryland. She pays Firefly, an experienced AT hiker with a small RV, to support her. Lisa hikes and camps like everyone else, but Firefly offers resupply, provides a bed when practical, and most importantly, provides valuable knowledge and perspective on the trail. It occurs to me that I need someone like that when I get to the White Mountains, but Firefly doesn’t know of anyone who provides that service. I decide to see if I can find someone to help me when I contact them in a few months.

Day 12 4/13 Bly Gap 78.4 to Beech Gap 90.5 12.1 miles

I had to stop and get my tent poles from Heather. Curiously, there was no longer any poison ivy. Heather was able to take Hatchet to Franklin, where she will go out of her way for a few days to attend a wedding.

Day 13 4/14 Beech Gap 90.5 to Big Spring Gap 100.5 10.0 miles

Today’s walk was uneventful, but I’m still slower than necessary. The shelter was full and several tests were already prepared when I arrived. Being slow means fewer tent site options and there is steep terrain to the site I need to use. It is definitely not flat, but tilted sideways. I literally have to leave my store. When I tried to answer nature’s call in the middle of the night, I fell backwards into the tent and knocked it completely over, breaking the vestibule pole. I now have 2 poles that need to be replaced. I can fix the vestibule post with a “ferrule,” which is a metal tube about 4 inches long and a little wider in diameter than the broken post. He slides over the broken part, splinting it like a broken bone. The other broken pole can’t be fixed because it has a tear on the end, but I can fix it so it works fine so far. However, I’m worried that with 2,100 miles to go, I’ll eventually need a better solution.

Day 14 4/15 Big Spring Gap 100.5 to Winding Stairs 109.6 9.1 miles

Today I had an uneventful walk to meet Heather to resupply. I decided to head out since our meeting point was only 15 minutes from the hotel in Franklin. We had a lovely dinner at Gracious Plates where we shared a flatbread and I had a stuffed portobello mushroom. The flourless chocolate cake was more like eating frosting, but since I’m more worried about losing weight than gaining it this time, I enjoyed this otherwise guilty pleasure. Heather is finally feeling better, which is a relief!

Next week: Departure to Fontana Dam and the entrance to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.