C2C Day 6: Kirkby Stephen to Keld

Previous: C2C Day 5 – Shap to Kirkby Stephen

Then there was one

We started the day well because we were staying in a very nice place, called La’l Stenkrithand they provided us with a simple, cold breakfast. The hot breakfasts at our BnBs were delicious and time consuming. We often wanted to start the day earlier, so in the mornings when we weren’t having a hot breakfast, it was something of a relief.

First, we headed into town so we could go to Bryson Bakery for some lunch. And right outside the bakery, sitting at the bus stop, was Thomas. I asked him what was happening and he said that he had been shot in the feet and that he had to take the bus. I assumed he meant he was taking the bus to the next stop, but no, he was heading home. And his father, Tom, was still walking alone. Wow, this was a real turn of events for the Two Toms!

There are some beautiful old buildings in Kirkby Stephen.

This sign in Kirkby Stephen was the first we saw with distances at both ends of the C2C.

The only alpaca photo of the trip.

The Nine Standards Rig

It’s a decent climb up Nine Standards Rigg, but the path was well maintained and we were back in slab territory. The wind was howling at the top of the ridge, but the bakery’s delights were screaming, so we met up and had an early lunch. Also, we weren’t in a rush today because we absolutely couldn’t check into the next place before 3:30 and we didn’t have to walk too far.

Looking towards Kirkby Stephen on the way to Nine Standards Rigg

The Nine Standards Rigg appearing at the top of the ridge

The Nine Standards Rigg are an enigma. Perhaps because of the mystery that surrounds them, it felt like it was a magical place. A little disturbing too, in a clear sense. And, once you’re there, you definitely feel like you’re in the Yorkshire Moors, where you’ve technically been for a while. What I like about them is that they mark the division of England. From now on all the waters we pass flow into the North Sea.

The Rigg of the Nine Standards, or at least some of them

Powered by McVitties Dark Chocolate Digestives

The official route is the only route that crosses here now. There were seasonal variations to avoid the swampiest parts, but with the new slabs all that is gone. And speaking of resting, one of those slabs is an old tombstone that serves as a grave. Was there a typographical error and that’s why it had a second life as a slab?

It’s a new world with flagstones to walk on now that C2C is a National Trail

And bridges too!

The River Swale

The next exciting milestone came when we joined the River Swale, which would be our guiding light for the next few days. We had previously spent time in Swaledale and were delighted to return here. The path along here ran mainly through green, rolling pastures. We walked around Ravenseat Farm, which is apparently quite famous in the UK now. More on that later.

Entering the River Swale Valley

Approaching Keld

Frith Lodge

We weren’t actually staying in Keld, but a little north of Keld in Frith Lodge. In our email correspondence with them, I learned that one of the owners, Karen, had written a book about her C2C walk and the transformation of this old farmhouse into a beautiful BnB. It’s a fun read and definitely helped get us excited about our adventure.

Are you arriving at Frith Lodge? No, not yet. It’s that barely visible group of buildings near the top of the hill on the right.

We pulled into their driveway just as the other owner, Neil, was collecting guests’ luggage from a shed at the end of their driveway. He offered us a ride but we preferred to walk. We wanted to experience what has to be one of the most incredible driveways around. It’s a good 20 minute walk from the road to the lodge along the driveway, with a healthy elevation gain too!

Bird of the day: Lapwing, which buzzed us as we approached Frith Lodge. Maybe we were near a nest? Or perhaps we are simply approaching a spring mating ritual?

One of the unique features of Frith Lodge is the community food table. So, after a warm welcome from Karen, we showered and changed and then joined the other 8 guests in the dining room for dinner. During dinner we all exchanged stories about our walks. Frith Lodge is situated not only next to C2C, but also along the Pennine Way and Herriot Way, so they all had different and interesting stories to tell.

At Frith Lodge you are on the Pennine Way, not C2C.

Next: C2C/Pennine Way Day 7 – Tan Hill Inn

This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any products or services you purchase using links in articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price they would otherwise pay, and their purchase helps support The Trek’s ongoing goal of bringing you quality backpacking information and advice. Thank you for your support!

For more information, visit the About page of this site.