PCT SoCal Section Hike Days 1-3: Idyllwild to Whitewater

Yesterday I returned home after my second hike of the year on the PCT section. In some ways, I found this trip more stressful than the previous ones. I thought that since I was on the road two months ago, that would have reduced my fears.

Instead, he was really scared. This would be the longest stretch hike I have ever done. Mount San Jacinto would be the tallest mountain I have climbed so far. I was intimidated by the Mission Creek section. It has been an unusually active rattlesnake season in California on the PCT. I was afraid I would accidentally rub against the poodle bush and have a serious skin reaction.

On top of all that, about 10 days before I left, I suddenly developed severe, sharp pain in my hip, probably a problem with the IT band. I spent the next 10 days desperately trying to recover, ceasing all physical activity, taking maximum doses of ibuprofen 24 hours a day, and icing and massaging my hip several times a day. I was worried that this hard section might aggravate the injury. Fortunately, it started to improve.

So, despite all my fears, I chose to undertake this section of hike anyway.

May 16: Travel Day

I took an early morning flight to Palm Springs. As I walked through the airport, I felt like I was sticking out like a sore thumb. Unlike the other passengers who were wearing much nicer clothes, I was only carrying hiking clothes and equipment.

I didn’t have to wait long before a tracking angel I had approached picked me up. During the 1.5 hour drive to Idyllwild on the Palms to Pines Highway, we ascended from the desert floor into the mountains. Although the trail angel had been in the Palm Springs area anyway, I gave him a generous donation because it was such a long trip. I was glad I did after seeing gas prices in Idyllwild were almost $7 a gallon.

Arriving in Idyllwild, California

In town, I picked up my San Jacinto Wilderness overnight permit at the ranger station, checked in at the Idyllwild Inn, picked up food, and met Mayor Max!

Meeting Mayor Max, the mayor dog of Idyllwild. I had been looking forward to meeting him for a long time!

Carb-loading with a delicious dinner at Gastrognome in Idyllwild

Day 1 (May 17): Paradise Valley Cafe to tent site– 20.7 miles

Going up to the clouds

I woke up at 4:00 am to give myself enough time to prepare for my 6:00 am trip to the trailhead. I saw two bunnies on the side of the road on the way and then three more bunnies in the first few miles. My mom always said that bunnies bring good luck and my partner loves them too, so I took that as a good sign.

It was cloudy, but I didn’t mind because it was cooler and protected me from the sun. Also, being from the Northeast, I am used to gray weather.

Climbing above the clouds

I was really paranoid about my hip, but I only felt a few twinges for the first few miles and never had any problems after that. Still, I kept a steady pace and took short, frequent breaks so as not to overexert myself.

The trail soon ascended above the clouds to reveal beautiful views, including my first glimpse of Mount San Jacinto. It seemed very far away; I couldn’t believe I would be there tomorrow.

First views of Mount San Jacinto

The day grew warmer and I stopped 11.5 miles away to get water at Eagle Spring, which was a steep quarter mile off the trail. I took a long lunch break and was eventually joined by two hikers.

Heading higher above the clouds

Shortly after, the trail took a steep, rocky descent of 500 feet before sharply climbing again 1,000 feet. The clouds came closer and the wind picked up. If you had told me I was hiking the Appalachian Trail, I would have believed you.

I thought they were going to blow me off the mountain!

The climb wasn’t too bad until near the end when I felt like I was crawling. I think the altitude of almost 7,000 feet was starting to get to me, especially since I had just arrived from the lowlands and wasn’t used to it.

Unfortunately, I didn’t get a break at the top. My only water source for the rest of the day was Apache Spring at the end of a steep 0.6 mile side trail. I had no choice but to make the challenging 1.2 mile side trip.

I talked to my mom on the phone while I filtered the water and enjoyed some glimpses of the Palm Springs clouds far below. I took a long break, which turned out to be just what I needed to regain my strength.

Visibility was so low that I could only see a few meters in front of me. The wind howled, threatening to blow me down the mountain. But I reached the top without stopping. When I reached it I felt reborn. Beast Mode was back!

A few kilometers later I reached my camp, which was somewhat protected from the wind. Fortunately, as the sun set, the clouds cleared and the winds died down, so I was able to enjoy a beautiful sunset.

Sunset at my camp on my first night of this section of the hike

Day 2 (May 18): From the tent to Fuller Ridge Campground– 21.2 miles

Summit of Mount San Jacinto

It rained overnight, which meant that in the morning I had to deal with my least favorite part of the trail: packing a wet tent. According to every hiker I talked to, they seemed to have camped in the only place on the entire mountain where it was raining.

We spent most of the day climbing. I started at dawn and hiked up the ridge for about 5 miles. The climb was steep and rocky with rockfalls, so it was slow.

Sunrise as I headed towards the summit of Mount San Jacinto

I was grateful for the break from the climbing as the trail changed to a gentle descent on a smooth surface through a beautiful pine forest. I stopped at Tahquitz Creek for water before taking the Tahquitz Valley Trail as a beautiful shortcut through meadows and forests to Saddle Junction.

Then I began to ascend again towards the summit of San Jacinto Hill. By the time I reached Annie’s Junction, I was already at 9,000 feet.

Since I’m not used to the altitude, I told myself to walk slowly the last few kilometers to the summit. I was surprised to get to the top faster than expected. I was also very excited: at 10,834 feet, Mount San Jacinto was the tallest mountain I had ever climbed!

Reaching the summit of Mount San Jacinto, my highest peak yet!

I took a lunch break while enjoying the views. I’m not sure if it’s the altitude, but I had to force myself to eat all day. I took my tent out to dry and despite the cooler weather at almost 11,000 feet, it dried pretty quickly.

The view from the top of Mount San Jacinto.

Unfortunately I still had 7.5 miles to my campsite, so I began the descent to reconnect with the PCT. I stopped halfway to fetch water from a stream in a beautiful meadow. While I was filtering water, I took off my shoes and socks and put my feet in the stream to give them an ice bath. The water was so cold it was painful!

Stopping at a stream on the way down Mount San Jacinto to refill water and take a quick ice bath for my feet.

I finished the day hiking Fuller Ridge. To my disappointment, there were two PUDs (useless climbs and descents) on the descent to Fuller Ridge Campground. After spending most of the day climbing, those PUDs may have been the hardest part of the day. Finally I arrived at the camp to spend a pleasant evening.

Day 3 (May 19): Fuller Ridge Campground to Mt. San Jacinto Hiker’s Haven: 19.5 miles

Descending into the desert

The day started with one of the best sunrises on the PCT yet. It brought me a lot of joy.

Sunrise from Fuller Ridge Campground

One of the best PCT sunrises yet!

After spending the last two days mainly climbing, today we spent descending. The trail transitioned from the beautiful pine forest to the shrubs and cacti characteristic of the lower elevations.

Continuing the long descent from San Jacinto Hill

Fortunately, the trail was mostly smooth with a reasonable grade, allowing for miles to be covered faster than the previous two days. I stopped to get water at kilometer 3, where I started to see other hikers. It was great to see and hear them above me on the curves on the road up the mountain.

Descending from Mount San Jacinto

Going down to the desert floor

About halfway there, I stopped on a shady rock for lunch. I realized it was only 9:00 am and thought: why not have lunch at 9:00 am?

Reaching the 200 mile mark on the PCT!

It was a good decision, as the trail became a little rockier and overgrown after that. As the sun rose and the elevation dropped, the day became hotter. I began to run out of water at the end of the descent and was grateful to be able to reach the tap at the bottom, where a group of hikers were resting.

To the left you can see the griffin and a group of hikers at the end of the descent from San Jacinto Hill.

After drinking two liters and packing two more, I set off with my umbrella for the last 6.3 kilometers across the desert floor. Fortunately, it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be at the best time of day with the sun overhead. The trail crossed some dirt roads, but it was mostly just sand and bushes. Sometimes the sand was very thick, making it difficult to move quickly.

Using my umbrella for the 4 mile hike through the desert to I-10 helped a lot

In those miles, I encountered magical trails twice. First, a local dropped off Gatorades on Snow Creek Road. Second, two lovely ladies had brought tons of food, cold drinks, and camping chairs under the I-10 overpass. Since I had plenty of water and was headed to the lodge, I only accepted a Gatorade from the trail angels out of courtesy and left everything else for the hikers who needed it more.

Almost to the I-10 overpass, where there was shade and magical trails.

I arrived at the Mt. San Jacinto Hiker’s Haven Hostel, where I had reserved a private room. I was so grateful for the opportunity to do laundry, shower, and restock by ordering Walmart Delivery home. Tomorrow I would return to the desert, knowing that the next section would bring a whole new set of challenges.

The cat at Mt. San Jacinto Hiker’s Haven, looking at the section of the wilderness I would tackle next.