PCT SoCal Section Hike, Days 4-6: Whitewater to Big Bear (Mission Creek)

After three challenging days climbing Mount San Jacinto and descending into the desert, I was ready to tackle the next leg. What I didn’t realize was that the next few days would test me in completely different ways, from navigating Mission Creek to overcoming one of the toughest days I’ve had on the PCT thus far.

Day 4 (May 20): Mt. San Jacinto Hiker’s Haven to Mission Creek: 23 miles

Menstrual Cramps and Mission Creek

Unfortunately, period pains woke me up at 2:00 am and I had a hard time getting back to bed, so I got up a little earlier than planned. However, I knew I had a potentially long day starting the Mission Creek section, and I preferred to put in the miles before it got hot. I left the hostel before 4:30 am and walked a few kilometers through the desert in the dark.

The sky began to brighten and turn a soft pink color as I approached the Mesa Wind Farm. I began a climb that became progressively steeper, but the sunrise and the windmills gave me something else to focus on. There were a lot of tumbleweeds and I had a lot of fun pushing them out of the way with my poles.

Sunrise over the Mesa Wind Farm

Start of the climb from the Mesa Wind Farm

After reaching the top, I descended into several canyons that the trail winds through before winding toward the Whitewater River. Since I started so early, I not only accomplished the “10 before 10” challenge (10 miles before 10:00 am), but I even accomplished “8 before 8”!

At the top of the climb from the wind farm.

Overlooking the Whitewater River

Thanks to the feedback on the FarOut app, I was able to cross the river downstream using a log. Although the river was not wide, it was deep and flowing fast, so as someone with short legs, I was grateful to be able to cross safely.

After crossing, I decided to have lunch on the shore and soak up the sun and views. Once I stopped moving, the day didn’t feel as hot and the breeze and a quick dip in the river also helped cool me down. The sound of rushing water and views of the surrounding mountains, including Mount San Jacinto, created a serene atmosphere.

Enjoying lunch on the Whitewater River with Mount San Jacinto in the background

After lunch, the trail ascended for more spectacular views of the mountains. I jumped in with a couple of friendly hikers as we approached the infamous Mission Creek. To put it in context, the trail used to follow the canyon and frequently crossed Mission Creek, but major flooding destroyed the trail, leaving behind boulders, smaller rocks, and other debris. Hikers are forced to walk across the creek bed, slowly navigating through all the debris, until they finally find the trail again.

Some of the spectacular views of the ascent from the Whitewater River

I had been very nervous about this section, worried that I wouldn’t be able to find my way. To prepare, I looked at all the comments about this section in the FarOut app. Therefore, I knew I needed to stay on the creek bed from miles 226 to 233, where I could then rejoin the intact trail by climbing an embankment. There were a couple more flop sections after which I would have to navigate. It was difficult to fully understand the comments when I couldn’t visualize what other hikers were describing. I hoped that if so many hikers made it through this section, I could make it too.

Overlooking Mission Creek

To my surprise, I loved it! It was like choosing your own adventure sailing down the creek bed. I found that I was good at finding easier terrain, like smaller rocks or sandy places, to walk on. I felt calm every time I saw footprints, reinforcing that I had chosen the right path. I didn’t mind frequent walks by the stream as it helped me cool down on a hot afternoon.

Starting the Mission Creek section, which was like choosing your own adventure.

As much fun as it was, my pace was definitely slower than usual. By the end of the day, I was exhausted from sun exposure and my ankles were constantly moving on the loose rocks. I’m glad I made it to a creekside spot about halfway up Mission Creek where I was able to pitch my tent. I went to bed feeling very grateful for how beautiful and wonderful the day turned out to be, especially how it started. This just goes to show that some of the days I dread the most turn out to be some of my favorite days on the trail.

Day 5 (May 21): Mission Creek to Camp Drag Trail: 24 miles

Misery and Magic

I started a little later than usual at 5:00 am so I could have enough daylight to help me navigate the last 0.8 miles of the creek bed. Even in low light, I made it to the spot at mile 233 to rejoin the PCT faster than expected. But when I got there, my heart sank. My fears had come true. I didn’t know which way to go up the embankment.

I started to feel a little panic and told myself to stay calm. It took me a minute, but I was finally able to recognize a faint trail and decided to give it a try. At the top, I noticed a couple of small cairns, indicating I was in the right place.

Rejoining the PCT after hiking the Mission Creek bed

The trail continued over the river for about a mile before being washed out again. It again took me a minute to realize that I should turn left to go down a steep trail and then go back up. I almost slipped because the ground was loose.

From there, the trail gradually climbed up the canyon, but for some reason, my legs really felt the increase in elevation. I also felt very tired. This surprised me because I’m usually fresh in the morning, and by day 5 of my section hikes, I usually have my trail legs.

After traversing another section of landslide, the trail began to climb steeply out of the canyon. That’s when I really started to struggle. I felt lethargic and like I was moving in slow motion. He was also sweating profusely, even though it was still early in the morning and cold.

Having difficulty determining where the trail was supposed to go

I finally got to the last washing section, which turned out to be the worst of all. I couldn’t even tell where the trail used to be. I almost slipped down a steep hill and started crying. I was on my period and exhausted, and the road felt unforgiving. For a moment I wondered how I was going to spend the rest of the day.

The last washing section was the worst.

Then I told myself I should pull myself together because I still had 17 miles left in my day and I couldn’t afford to lose water from my body here in the desert. I picked my way around rocks and fallen trees before luckily finding my way up and out.

When I arrived at Mission Camp, I felt overwhelming relief. I survived Mission Creek! I wish I could buy a sticker that said that. Then I looked at my watch and realized why my legs were so tired: 3,700 feet of elevation gain.

I was very relieved to finally reach Mission Camp, the end of the Mission Creek section.

I decided to have lunch there at Mission Camp even though it was 8:30 am. I dipped my feet in the stream for an ice bath and drank several liters of water. The next water source wouldn’t be 16 miles away, so I packed 3 liters.

Fortunately, the road to the PCT returned to normal, with much more fluid progress. I was able to get back up to a pace of about 3 miles per hour. As the trail passed through the San Gorgonio Desert, the views and flowers brought me back to life. There were many lupins (one of my favorite flowers) with a strong and sweet aroma, like grape candy.

The views and the flowers that brought me back to life.

The trail led to views of San Gorgonio Peak, Mount San Jacinto, and Mission Creek. One of the many reasons I love the PCT is being able to see how far you’ve hiked and where you’re going next.

Views of San Gorgonio Peak

I stopped at Cook Creek Cabin to take a quick break and reapply sunscreen. I’m glad I did, as the trail became more exposed after that. There weren’t as many views and the trail crossed a lot of dirt roads.

As I approached Onyx Summit, I saw a sign near the turnoff to the parking lot. Trail magic! When I walked to the parking lot, I was very grateful to meet two local angels who offered me food and cold drinks. I inhaled two hot dogs, a bag of Chex Mix, and a grape soda like it was nothing. I didn’t realize how much I needed it.

Magical Trail at Onyx Summit

Thanks to the magic of the trail, I had pep in my step for the last 4 miles to camp, where a couple of hikers eventually joined me as well. I am very grateful that I was able to push forward this morning to finish the Mission Creek section and reach 24 miles. A day that began in misery ended up being magical!

Day 6 (May 22): Drag Trail Camp to Big Bear Lake – 10 miles

Nero in the city

I was planning to hike 18 miles to another trailhead, but yesterday the trail angels and other hikers convinced me to get off the trail at Highway 18. I’m glad that was the plan, since my feet started hurting at the end of the 10 miles. The trail passed through a beautiful forest with huge trees before opening up to expansive views as it made its way toward Big Bear Lake.

First look at Big Bear Lake

Walking between huge trees

Some of the views before reaching the trailhead to enter Big Bear Lake.

I couldn’t believe how easy it was to get into town. As I approached the trailhead, a trail angel walked up the trail from the parking lot, offering rides to hikers. I accepted her offer and asked her to wait a few minutes for another woman not far from me who was also planning to go into town at this trailhead.

It’s arrived at Big Bear Lake!

We were dropped off at our hotels and ended up meeting at the laundromat and the supermarket. Ironically, the trail angel who drove us from the trailhead was also at the grocery store, so he drove some of us back to our hotels. Between all my errands, making dinner, getting organized, repacking, and catching up on messages and phone calls, I’m glad I got out of the way early. It was a busy day in town preparing for the next three-day stretch of the trail.

Tomorrow I would hit the road again from Big Bear. After surviving Mission Creek, I felt prepared to face what came next.