HHH Chapter 24 Will I be able to finish Wales in Fishguard?

After yesterday’s grueling climbs, I had some plans to make. My initial idea had been to walk the next 16km of coastline and meet up with my old friend J at the end. Her husband was leaving her at the end of his own journey, walking near Aberystwyth. Then, the next day, he would accompany me on the final leg of my walk through Wales to the port of Fishguard.

Little by little I realized that this was not going to be feasible. Already tired, it probably wasn’t wise to do two strenuous days in a row. It is known that the final stretch is hard and once started there is no way to shorten it or get off the path. I definitely wanted to get into Fishguard on my own. So I asked J and her husband to pick me up in the car and take us to our accommodation. Then J and I could do a shorter part of the route I missed. This leaves a gap in the route, but the Pembrokeshire Cliffs aren’t going anywhere, so I may do that walk another day. I sat in the beautiful garden waiting, looking at the wall of dry stone and packed earth, and the fields behind. I made this sketch, sitting in the sunny breeze, listening to the wrens sing.

Inside I felt relieved. I don’t have to punish my body just for «being whole.» This way I would be fresh for the last and most grueling section of my walk through Wales. AJ and I were dropped off at the hotel and then walked a lovely stretch of coastal path, through beautiful woodlands full of garlic in full bloom.

We then descended to the coast and wondered what the state of the tide would be the next morning. We had a very good dinner in a pub and slept well. The next day was going to be the most important: finishing my walk through Wales in the port of Fishguard. Ships bound for Ireland depart from nearby Goodwick, which has a much larger modern port.

With full fuel we set off

We both had a full breakfast, which included eggs and mushrooms for me and bacon, beans, eggs and sausage for J. The day was clear and bright with a breeze. We left our hotel, walked to Newport along a busy stretch of road and turned along the estuary, towards the cliffs that rise where the river empties into the sea. We looked towards the coast and the coastal path we had visited the day before.

The tide was high, leaving a small beach where little schoolchildren, dressed in sweatshirts and bright red wellies, were taking their morning rest. Their teachers watched them as they played in the small waves or ran. What a wonderful place to play. We had to go around the estuary to reach the rocks at the end of the port, passing rural houses and making a short detour inland, where the path was covered by the high tide. The path gradually ascended, climbing higher and higher, until reaching the cliffs with spectacular views and flowers everywhere.

This flower is called scurvy grass. It’s edible and contains plenty of vitamin C, which would be good to know if you were an underfed sailor from the old days.

Walking along the Pembrokeshire cliffs.

The coastal cliff walks are spectacular in good weather. We were treated to long views and beautiful blue sea for most of the day. They also offered us steep climbs, short easy sections and then steep descents to beach level. Again and again. Sometimes, when small rivers had cut ravines through the rocks to the sea, we had to detour inland to reach the crossing places. And then it comes all the way back to climb more cliffs. This is just one of those detours, it would be a small section if we could walk across in a straight line, but we had to go inland to go around the deep inlet.

Longing for leisure

The lower parts of the route ran through beautiful isolated beaches, like small natural ports. We looked forward to resting there for a couple of hours to watch the birds, enjoy the pebbles and dream. These delightful breaks would take up too much of our day, as there was still a long way to go. So we continued at a good pace all morning.

On one of those beaches we found an interesting creation, made of driftwood and carefully selected pebbles. We added our own white stones to the frame…and on and on we went.

sea ​​stories

We stopped for lunch on a bench next to a ruined church and looked out at the sea, happy to rest. There was also ice cream in a small van. The man who was there told us how the church had been ruined. The church dates back to the 12th century and was far from the coast, separated by a meadow and a marsh. Five hundred years later, the villagers took shelter inside the church during a terrible storm, believing that God would protect them. The storm raged with such violence that it washed away the entire coastline, the land behind it, and the water eroded the land beneath the church. Everything collapsed and many lives were destroyed as well. A sobering story.

Further down the coast we saw a shipwreck, from just a few months ago. A ship seeking shelter in Goodwick Harbor was pushed onto rocks by gale-force winds. It had veered off course while sailing off the coast of Ireland. Fortunately, the local lifeboat saved everyone on board, including a man who had fallen into rough seas. It must have been a terrifying experience. How brave the volunteer lifeboat crew are to go out in such conditions.

At times the cliff path seemed very close to the edge and we could see the rocks below and the foaming waves. This added a certain chill to our walk! This part had simply fallen into the sea far below. I was glad we had good visibility and were not negotiating this road in the thick fog I had encountered earlier.

“…and many kilometers to travel before sleeping”…

…As Robert Frost said. We didn’t really have many miles to go, about four miles, but our legs grew tired as the afternoon lengthened and the sun began to set in the sky. The beauty of the walk kept us going and the beautiful flowers. This meadow was covered with tiny lilac spring shearling flowers, which formed a pale mist over the grass. My alignment with the horizon was not very good, but it probably indicates my somewhat fatigued state.

A young woman who had fallen running passed us. He jumped over rocks and jumped down a very steep slope in the blink of an eye. I admired his physical condition and his ability, how wonderful to be so young and strong! Then I resumed my slow, careful descent. I didn’t want to trip or fall in this last stage. Some walks are athletic feats. J and I are happy with a rich experience and taking our time.

Finished in Fishguard! At last!!

We pass the remains of an 18th century fort, intended to repel the invasion of Napoleon’s troops, go down a long, long descent and arrive at the picturesque old port of Fishguard. We seemed to arrive suddenly, and just like that, my Welsh walk was complete.

Anticipating this moment I was expecting something a little dramatic. Would I start crying? Or go to bed? Or scream? I was too tired to feel anything but relief. It felt like he exhaled deeply after holding his breath for a long time. The harbor wall made a great finishing point. I was grateful to have J with me for this last section. Unconditional and encouraging, she kept morale high even when I grew tired. We hugged each other.

The old port of Fishguard is pretty and full of old fishermen’s cottages with white sailboats moored in the water. We enjoy the moment.

A taxi took us up the long, steep hill to our hotel in the neighboring village of Goodwick. We had some great Indian food, washed down with a nice cold beer. Soon I fell fast asleep. The ducks also enjoyed the port.

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