When I arrived in Shenandoah, I had heard many opinions about the park. Some hikers loved it, others said it was one of the most forgettable sections of the AT. After six days and just over 100 miles, I definitely understand both perspectives. Between long, hot days, roadside food, and miles of monotonous forest, I found Shenandoah to be a mixed bag.
Days 1 and 2: Entrance to the Park
It was difficult to leave Waynesboro after a great stay in the city. We got a late start around 11am and planned to walk 20 miles. It was hot, the water transports were long, and I spent most of the day feeling uninspired. The forest really looked like the “green tunnel” I had heard so much about, the climbs didn’t end in views and the trail was covered in nettles and poison ivy. Everything seemed to blend together and I wasn’t particularly excited about hiking. Whatever happened to the open forests and spectacular scenery?
Part of the rebel forest we found
To end the day, I stopped and made dinner before arriving at camp, something I don’t normally do. It gave me a chance to rest my feet and recharge. I didn’t get to camp until 8pm.
The second day was similar. It was brutally hot and I drank about 10 liters of water throughout the day. Despite the heat, I advanced a few more kilometers and ended up covering about 23.
Day 3: Great meadows
We were planning to stay at Big Meadows Lodge for the third night, so we moved as quickly as possible toward the promise of a hotel room and a shower. The day was still hot, but there was more water available and knowing that I would be sleeping in a bed gave me a lot of motivation.
Lodge in the big meadows
Arriving at Big Meadows was like landing on another planet. After weeks of interacting primarily with hikers, there were suddenly tourists everywhere. Families, hikers, and people completely unrelated to the AT looked at us as if we were wild creatures. It was a nice reminder that what we’re doing is really cool.
Eat well in the elegant restaurant.
We celebrated the miles with dinner at the lodge, watched the sunset, played games, and got ready for the next day. The next morning, I woke up early and sat in the hostel enjoying their Wi-Fi. After breakfast with my two friends, we got back on the road.
Day 4: Best refuge night yet
We took it easy on the fourth day and hiked only about 15 miles to a day-use shelter that had been converted to an overnight shelter. When we arrived we were surprised: there was no one else. This is rare in most lodges, let alone a crowded national park.
Gourmet quesadillas for dinner 🙂
Since rain was forecast during the night, the three of us decided to sleep in a shelter. This was only my second time sleeping in a shelter the entire trip and I was a little nervous because all I had was my thin torso pad to sleep on.
Byrds Nest Cabin
Around one in the morning, I woke up to pouring rain. I felt like I was sleeping by the ocean. A cool breeze and mist blew in through the opening of the shelter. The rain hitting the roof sounded like crashing waves, and somewhere outside I could hear a couple of birds singing through the storm.
I looked to my left and right and could see my two friends moving around. I knew they were awake too. The three of us got up at the same time to move our backpacks into the shelter. I tried to make a comment about the rain, but it was so loud that neither of us could hear a word. I crawled back into my quilt and quickly fell asleep again.
I ended up sleeping until 7:30, which is late for me. Rain on your roof, especially when it’s warm and dry inside, can be one of the best forms of white noise out there.
Rainy view from the shelter.
Day 5: Elkwallow
For the rest of the Shennies, everything went back to routine. We covered another 20 miles or so to be in a good position to reach Front Royal the next day. The hike itself wasn’t particularly notable, but we had the Elkwallow Wayside to look forward to.
The food was surprisingly good. I bought a burger, onion rings and the famous blackberry ice cream. It was expensive, but it was worth it.
Sunset on Mount Marshall
We also had a few storms during the afternoon. That night we found a campsite near a lookout, watched the sunset, and I fell into another deep sleep.
Day 6: Royal Front
My last morning in Shenandoah began with a descent down the mountain and one last short hike before leaving the park.
A nice lady who was very excited to see some hikers took us to Front Royal. We took advantage of Basecamp, a fantastic resource for hikers that offers free showers, laundry, and charging. The vendor and other local businesses sponsor the space.
Royal Front
After that, I went to the brewery and of course the bakery. The free tram took us back to the trailhead to continue our adventure.
Final Thoughts on Shenandoah
Shenandoah was a strange section of trail for me. The hike itself was not my favorite. Views were limited, the trail was often overgrown, and I found myself constantly brushing against nettles, poison ivy, wet grass, blackberry thorns, and whatever else grew along the trail. Sometimes, I chose to walk along the road just to get a break from the nondescript woods.
That being said, there is something special about walking through a national park. Seeing hikers all day, stopping on roadsides, and crossing Skyline Drive several times gave this section a different vibe than anywhere else on the trail. Even if the hike wasn’t my favorite, the overall experience was unique.
Well, there were a couple of good views.
Rose, Thorn, Bud
Pink
I really enjoyed the deer in the park. They weren’t bothered by the hikers at all, so I got to see them up close.
Thorn
As you can probably tell, I wasn’t a big fan of nettle.
Outbreak
I can’t wait to celebrate almost the halfway mark with a big nero and cero at Harpers Ferry!
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