Conic Hill is not really a hill!

We began our second day hike along the WHW. Leaving Dryman our goal today is 7 short miles over Conic Hill finishing in the town of Balmaha. Descriptions of this section vary, but most agree that the hike down from Conic Hill is somewhat treacherous. However, hikers seem to disagree with the climb side: some describe a version of hell and others find it enjoyable. The question is which category we will fall into today.

scottish rain

Scotland appears to have a weather setting on its dial that is rainy. However, the rainfall differs from where I am in Florida. Scottish rain is a constant drizzle followed by cold winds. Florida has such heavy downpours that sometimes you simply cannot drive during the rainy season. I’m glad we’re not out in the Florida rains. We started out prepared for the rain and it wasn’t all that threatening, so we went with jackets. Fifteen minutes later it started to drizzle and we continued walking without believing it would last and then the cold winds came. They put their waterproof jackets back on. This is the jacket dance on the Camino.

Today’s trail

We start with a beautiful green path that begins to take us to the grassy hills overlooking Drymen. About a mile into Sugar Sand I get asked if this is Conic Hill and I chuckle because no trail today can start uphill, but will save the best for last. I promise to wait at trail intersections to make sure you’re on the trail.

I ran into another hiker from Los Angeles and she laughs that her group also has different speeds and she is also in the front. At a crossroads they both wait for our groups and explain that the WHW goes north and up, but that there is a shorter route to Balhama here on our left if you wish. Sugar Sand vehemently says no, he wants to see the sights of Conic Hill. Likewise, my new friend’s group chooses the Cerro Cónico trail. Forward!

Ascent to the conical hill

The trail takes us through many pastures with our new sheep friends. Every step now has the challenges of rain, mud and sheep poop. The trail crosses one last main pasture and now the actual view of Conic Hill appears. We can see a path with little curvature towards its verticality in abundance. The trail maintenance elves have worked hard here and created many rock steps for us. Fortunately, they look more like real steps than some of the sections of the OT.

Zigzag ascent of Conic Hill ahead

Conic Hill Stone Steps

I enjoy the climb mainly because I find it easy. Well, it’s not easy, but compared to last year when I backpacked North Carolina along the AT and found the climbs challenging. A year of training and conditioning has paid off and I can feel the improvement much to my delight. But now the drizzle is constant and now the winds are blowing. Sugar Sand is behind me and I lose eye contact, but the trail is now filled with hikers. I continue on and meet some nice guys maintaining the trail and I thank them for their work so that all of us crazy hikers can enjoy the Camino. They laugh and respond that they are happy to have us all here enjoying their homeland.

Summit

The trail is now seriously battered by drizzle, but the winds are stronger and clouds are beginning to surround us at our level. I reach the upper turn off to the top of Conic Hill, which remains consistent with now extremely steep rock steps. I continue moving to the top and start taking pictures. Then, in the few seconds I was able to take pictures, clouds surrounded us, increasing visibility to about 20 feet. I decide to descend and am somewhat reluctant to face the steep descent, but I actually find it less terrifying than the ascent. And finally I am rewarded with the image of Sugar Sand eating lunch while sitting on a rock.

conical hill

Conic Hill as the clouds roll in

Slippery stone steps

Sugar Sand has had a little time on the way up but is replenishing calories for the way down. Continue up the decent rock step, which is completely muddy and slippery. Sugar Sand falls and lands on her knee. His shattered trekking pole failed causing him to fall. All my preparation for the trip, bringing additional medical supplies and trekking poles were the weak link in the plan. She’s shaken and her knee is shaking, but she keeps going. When we go down, a little ibuprofen helps her stay on track. This rock path is endless and we keep hearing the typical story that “it ends around the corner.”

Finally we are on a dirt path and we advance again through the forest that protects us from the rains.

The view of Loch Lomond lies ahead and our final destination for the night is the town of Balmaha. Once we settled in we were able to inspect and freeze the knee of Sugar Sands. Everything is fine, fortunately only a bruise, but suffice it to say that he no longer feels like climbing any more stone stairs.

Balmaha

Statute of John Weir

Loch Lomond

This picturesque Scottish town is located on the shores of Loch Lomond. For those who are not familiar with the term loch means lake. The landscape is beautiful but the rain is endless. We took a look and visited John Weir Park dedicated to the famous Scottish photographer, journalist and nature lover. He had a show called Weirs World which introduced Scots to different outdoor environments. His legacy remains strong as he worked tirelessly to preserve the nature of the Scottish environment. Overlooking the lake is his statue complete with a hiking backpack and an iconic photo op on the trail.

Tomorrow, on the third day, we hike the trail following Loch Lomond all day with the goal of reaching Rowardennan. It promises to be an easier day of hiking with impressive views. We are a little wary as descriptions of Conic Hill were mixed and by definition it was a hill but it sure didn’t feel like a hill.

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