HexaTrek Week 3: Mountains, Determination and Protein Bar Dreams

Aubure a Thann.

The third week on HexaTrek was like entering a completely different path. The fairytale vineyards, villages and castles of Alsace have gradually given way to wild mountain landscapes, spectacular ridges and vast open landscapes. Every day seems to bring us another spectacular panorama, a rocky summit or an exposed plateau. The landscape has become bigger, wilder, and somehow even more spectacular.

The highlight of our rest day in Aubure was undoubtedly the hot tub, which did wonders for my tired muscles after so many consecutive days on the trail. It was exactly what my body needed.

Unfortunately, the day of rest was not entirely restorative. My fixed retainer decided to partially break and then I discovered that I couldn’t comfortably fit my removable retainers either. Having recently finished Invisalign treatment, the thought of my teeth moving again caused me to panic a little! Getting an emergency dentist appointment proved impossible, but after sending photos to my dentist, it appeared that only the final section of the wire had moved. Fortunately, I had packed two sets of retainers. Using my trusty nail clippers (which conveniently included a file), I carefully cut a small gap in one pair to accommodate the displaced wire and smoothed out the sharp edges. It’s not ideal, but with the modified retainers fitting comfortably again, I hope everything stays the same until I return home in four weeks.

As if that weren’t enough, a cold sore decided to make an appearance on the exact same day. Looking back, the facial pain I had experienced the day before was probably the warning sign. I suspect my body is starting to feel the effects of weeks of walking, limited nutrition, and accumulated fatigue.

Food has been one of the biggest challenges this week. Between Le Bonhomme and Thann there were very few opportunities for resupply. Although there were occasional restaurants, vegan options were often non-existent. This meant carrying four days’ worth of light food that could survive the heat. He had already arranged to have protein powder and protein bars delivered to Thann, knowing that otherwise he would struggle.

Breakfasts became muesli bars. Lunches consisted mainly of rice cakes and peanut butter. Snacks consisted of fruit purees, dried fruits and nuts, while dinner was usually soup.

It simply wasn’t enough.There are not enough calories. There is not enough protein.

Combined with increasingly hot temperatures, I started to feel pretty unwell. The heat and constant sweating caused my blood pressure to drop, something that is always a challenge with PoTS, even when I take electrolytes daily. Finally, I made the difficult decision to eat a vegetarian pie because I desperately needed the calories. In an ideal world, plant-based foods would be offered everywhere, but unfortunately that is not always the reality in rural France. Survival on the road has to come first.

I have already lost a considerable amount of weight and staying healthy and moving safely has become the priority.

This week there was also a really brutal escalation. Le Bonhomme’s exit was particularly wild. The hiking itself is pretty easy. Mountaineering is also manageable. But tackling steep ascents and descents day after day with a 15kg backpack on your back transforms the experience completely. That’s when courage, determination and stubbornness become your most valuable pieces.

Despite the challenges, this has also been my favorite section of the trail so far. The famous Sentier des Roches lives up to its reputation. Day 15, from Lac Blanc to Lac de Fischboedle, was simply incredible. The route was dramatic, exciting and endlessly picturesque. We even witnessed a mountain rescue operation during the day, a stark reminder that these mountains deserve respect. If you plan to hike Sentier des Roches, I recommend avoiding weekends if possible as it was quite busy during the week.

This week’s tour has also passed numerous reminders of the region’s wartime history. We found war graves and old German shelters hidden among the mountains. Being in these places provides valuable perspective. Any discomfort you experience along the way pales in comparison to what previous generations endured. The freedom to choose to walk these mountains exists because of the sacrifices they made.

An unexpected topic of the week has been ski resorts. We have passed numerous resorts, all strangely quiet in summer. I was disappointed to discover that the mountain toboggan runs were not operational, as heading downhill without carrying a backpack seemed like a great idea!

Camping at Le Markstein was another highlight. The campground there was gorgeous, with free wooden tent platforms with anchor points, privacy screens, and composting toilets. After some wild camping and basic facilities, it felt really luxurious.

We’ve also met countless cows this week, and the French mountain cows seem wonderfully relaxed compared to many of their British counterparts. They’re incredibly relaxed, barely blinking as hikers pass by, and the gentle sound of their bells wafting across the mountains has become one of the defining features of the soundtrack.

There have definitely been times this week – particularly during the relentless climbs and intense heat – when I have missed Thailand, where food and drink stalls seem to pop up every few metres, even on the mountaintops!

However, as I sit here in a comfortable hotel room in Thann, bundled up and demolishing the protein bars I’ve been dreaming about for days, it’s surprising how quickly the tough times fade. It is easy to forget the pain, the hunger and the tiredness, and I can’t wait to get back on the road.

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Photos:

rock trail

German bunker at Tete des Faux

white lake

French military graves, not far from Tete des Faux

Remains of the German fort

mountain rescue

Frankenthal

Lake Fischboedle

dairy cow

Keeping us cool during our lunch break

Camping Le Markstein

on the way

Grand Ballon, the highest point of the Vosages – 1424 m

big balloon

big balloon

Saint-Thiebaut Church in Thann

The witches eye over Thann

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