Bluff Mountain Redux and Central Virginia Services

Saturday, June 13, 2026

The lure of the city calls to me from my tent and I follow its voice over Bluff Mountain. In the city I allow myself all kinds of luxuries for hikers.

Mild morning

bSpeaking over my shoulder was the Pedlar River, still running as it was about 8 hours ago when I fell asleep. Maybe he’s been babbling even longer than that. I was quite comfortable, the morning was cooler than the previous ones. My summer quilt only covered me halfway. I took a few moments to compose myself before the lure of the town that was just under 14 miles away took hold. It barely took me long to pack up camp and I decided to postpone searching for water and breakfast until I reached the Punchbowl shelter. I was 4 miles away but the intense heat of yesterday was still fresh in my mind. Now it was a little while ago, I thought it would be better to do a little walking.

Adrenaline hiking

After almost 45 kilometers yesterday, my legs were slow to start. That’s not a good sign, they’re usually fine for a few hours before they start complaining. Camping on the Pedlar River meant I was in a low spot with an immediate climb. My hunger and thirst barely complained for the first 3 miles, but then they started to attack. With nothing in my system, I was pumping with adrenaline. Water and breakfast would arrive soon, but today I had to earn them. I quickly passed the 800 mile marker, a dirt road that for some time yesterday I thought I could walk back to, and then crossed Blue Ridge Avenue. The shelter was only 7-tenths of a mile away, but the slope was steep. I was still doing little, but the incline was a brutal routine for my calves. I was sweating but it was nothing compared to yesterday.

Punchbowl Shelter

I finally made it to the shelter sign and made it to the table just on impulse. I headed to the spring, which seemed to be less of a spring and more of a pipe leading out of the nearby pond, but I was happy to see water. It was a little yellowish but it filtered well. It was also a good oatmeal and I even felt relatively cool in the shade of the forest surrounding the picnic table. I allowed myself to relax a little, it was a well-deserved rest.

While I lingered at the shelter, I looked out at the nearby town of Buena Vista. I knew hikers often headed to that town, but what I really wanted to check out were the grocery store options. Half a liter of ice cream was just what I needed after two whole days without some. I also checked out some of the restaurant options and one name caught my eye: Holy Cow. They would probably have ice cream. I read that not only do they have ice cream, but it’s also locally made and AT hikers get a free small cup or cone!

A high risk offer

Most hikers are familiar with the half-gallon challenge, offered by Pine Grove Furnace General Store, at the midpoint of the AT. The hikers test themselves by eating half a liter plus a liter and a half of ice cream. Hikers pay for the ice cream, but if they finish it all they receive a wooden spoon and their name in the store’s logbook.

Holy Cow has a similar challenge available. They describe it as 20 scoops of ice cream, 3 waffle cones, 5 toppings, and whipped cream. The twist is that if you finish it in 25 minutes you don’t have to pay the approximately $45 the dish costs and you get a free t-shirt. My eyes widened. By now it should be clear that I am an ice cream lover. But do I love him that much? My brain began to analyze the problem into rational thoughts and questions:

• How big are these 20 balls?
• Is this comparable to the half gallon challenge?
• What is the success rate?
• Do I get a metal spoon or a small plastic one?
• How much had you eaten today?
• How much longer could I go without eating?

The debate continued. But if I tried this, today would be the day. I have tomorrow off (recovery time) and they are closed on Sundays.

cliff mountain

I checked the remaining distance to the truck, 9.5 miles, not bad considering it was 9:00 a.m. Better yet, I was only 1.8 miles from the top of Bluff Mountain. It would be a difficult climb, but it would be over soon. The rest of the hike was almost all downhill. I thanked myself for taking a little risk and walking yesterday afternoon. I filtered another liter of water and drank it quickly. Maybe I can make it the last 9.5 miles without another water break. I put on my backpack and prepared for the 1.8 mile climb to Bluff Mountain.

The day was getting warmer and Bluff Mountain hadn’t gotten any smaller. I had a new amount of energy driving me but the heat was intense. Every gap between the trees allowed light to pass through and significantly raised the temperature. I was sweating but intensely focused on putting the climb behind me. All I could think about was the comforts of the city to keep me going. No matter how much I sweat today, I’ll wash it all off in Glasgow, at the city’s hiker’s shelter with a shower.

A helicopter passed over the top and then turned around. I figured he must be doing some recreational sightseeing. A few minutes later I reached the top. The same four stone pillars, remains of an old fire tower, were still there to greet me. Just like the view of Buena Vista.

Finishing the road

The heat was increasing and I had used up all the energy I had gained from stopping at the shelter on the way up to Bluff Mountain. Now he was moving along the path. I could feel that I had developed a gnarled blister on the tip of my left pinky toe. Going downhill meant I had to struggle with every step. I applied my usual blister remedy, ignoring it completely. The trail wound mostly through mountain gaps and slopes without many views. There were two exceptions: The trail overlooks the James River from majestic overlooks near Big Rocky Row.

I was just thinking about ice cream, showers and getting out of the way. It wasn’t the kilometers, the rocks, the climbs or the descents that tested me. It was the heat. I know I’ve learned to adapt to many different challenges since I started climbing the AT. I would eventually adapt to the heat, but I wasn’t there yet. I need days like today to condition myself. The miles dragged on, but I finally made it out of the woods and quickly got the truck ready to go.

The view from the trail near Rocky Row Run Overlook.

The view from the trail near Rocky Row Run Overlook.

Glasgow And Buena Vista

After a 10 minute drive I arrived at the Glasgow hiker shelter. I quickly found the showers and after waiting for another hiker to finish showering, it was my turn. I was happy to see that he was tick-free again and all the sweat and dirt washed away easily. I took stock of my cuts and scrapes, all minor considering the 1,600 miles traveled.

The shower seemed to make me come to my senses. 20 free scoops of ice cream sounds like 21 of my favorite things. But honestly, I’d gladly pay those few dollars for just the right amount of ice cream, without the resulting intestinal pain. I decided to take Holy Cow’s free cone offer and move on. By chance, today was the Rockbridge Outdoor Fest at the same Holy Cow location in Glen Maury Park. There were vendors from local businesses, vendors, and various organizations promoting outdoor recreation. I walked among the vendors and then enjoyed a generous scoop and a half of strawberry ice cream at Holy Cow after signing their logbook. I thought about having a beer or two at the Devil’s Backbone Brewery booth, but felt like I needed a sports drink and something to eat more. I headed out of town to the supermarket where I discovered I could connect to the WiFi in the parking lot. I could spend a few hours on my blog here and be in good shape for more free time tomorrow.

A shower certainly brightens a hiker’s mood.

The Rockbridge Festival vendor area.

Holy Cow Ice Cream Shop.

Keep track of the number of hiking visitors – 2026 is fast approaching!

My strawberry ice cream, courtesy of Holy Cow!

-See you tomorrow

Total: 13.9 miles, 31,598 steps

• Hike type: Backpacking
• Camp: van

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