Day 27 – The Nimiipuu Trail

September 11 – Blue Mountains TrailNE Oregon

Buckhorn Lookout

I didn’t make it to the actual overlook at Buckhorn yesterday, so I was excited to take in the view this morning and then head down the Nimiipuu Trail to the Snake River. First, I had to cook my chicken masala, which was surprisingly good for breakfast. While I was cooking, I took my tent to the only place that was basking in the sun to dry it. Then I drove the cattle away from the spring and got my fill.

Buckhorn Lookout is a great sight. The view is primarily toward the Imnaha River drainage, but the Snake River Canyon, also known as Hells Canyon, is visible next to the drainage. The entire view is part of the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area. I stopped at the view before continuing along the old road to the Nimiipuu Trailhead.

The Nimiipuu

The Nimiipuu National Historic Trail traces the route the Nez Perce (Nimiipuu) took through this rugged country when they were forced to leave Wallowa County, pursued by the U.S. Army. They also had to move all the livestock (mostly horses) they could muster in a short time. And the road was not easy. I only walked a small part, but it’s hard to imagine 750 men, women and children, plus their livestock, making this trip. And it was always on my mind as I walked here.

Going down the Nimiipuu trail.

The trail descended steeply from the west rim of Imnaha Canyon. It wasn’t always easy to follow and I had the most success when I stayed to the left of the densest vegetation in the wash. As I approached Tuller Creek Ranch, I veered left on the old road across the slope until the trail turned right and headed back down.

There are occasional signs for the Nimiipuu Trail around here.

The Imnaha

Looking back to Vance Draw at the Nimiipuu Trailhead along Dug Bar Road.

At the end of Vance Draw, the trail reaches Dug Bar Road along the Imnaha River. Then it was an easy walk down the road to the Cow Creek Bridge, where I hoped to take a dip in the Imnaha. And there was a big swimming rock right under the bridge to do just that.

The Imnaha of the Cow Creek Bridge. That rock on the left bank is a great place to swim.

While I was eating lunch, a storm began to form. This was not great news because the route went up and over the lower end of the ridge that divides the Imnaha and Snake Rivers. I followed the path and after a while the Nimiipuu trail began again. At that moment there was lightning nearby. I hesitated to climb, but decided the exposure wasn’t too bad since the highest point of the trail is only halfway up the ridge.

The Nimiipuu Trail begins again after an uphill hike along Dug Bar Road.

Looking back down the Imnaha River Canyon from the Nimiipuu Trail

The storm was brewing, but I was pretty sure I just had to get to that chair and then I’d get down to the Snake. I made a mistake. The trail crossed the ridge for a good distance.

the snake

Then it started to rain, although not too hard. I still couldn’t stop thinking about the Nez Perce being chased here as they fled for their lives. I was headed to Dug Bar, where the Nez Perce crossed the Serpent, one of many major obstacles they faced on their nearly 1,200-mile journey. I have read that the Nez Perce lost hundreds of their livestock crossing the river. No wonder, the Snake is a serious river, especially in May when they were forced to cross it. Surprisingly, all the Nez Perce made it across.

I thought there might be some rafters camping at Dug Bar. It seems there usually is in the summer. But the first rafting season was coming to an end, so I had Dug Bar to myself. It stopped raining for a while and I settled in quickly. I even bathed in the Snake. Then the rain came hard. A strong storm broke out in the hills. I decided to go back to having oatmeal for dinner and make a dinner for breakfast tomorrow morning.

Looking down the Snake River from the place where the Nez Perce crossed. The river would have been much more formidable then, in May and without the dams.

Elevation Tracker

Day 27: 3,326′

Total: 79,216′

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