A moose at the highest point of the Long Trail

FFor many days I have thought about little more than the 4,000-foot mountains of Vermont. The state boasts five: Mount Abraham, Mount Ellen, Camel’s Hump, Killington and Mount Mansfield. Now, on the north face of Mansfield, I realize I have no idea who’s coming next. Only two other New England states (New Hampshire and Maine) have mountains this size.

The highest point of the long trail

As I sat in Stowe, figuring out my leg situation, I really came to terms with the fact that I would not be continuing on this path. With that acceptance was the understanding that he would not reach the summit of Mount Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak.

Speaking on the phone to my sister, as I contemplate trying to continue walking north, I tell her that simply reaching the top of Mansfield would be a wonderful consolation prize if I can’t make it to Canada.

All the stairs made climbing much easier.

This morning I wake up at Butler Lodge, two miles below the summit of Mansfield. I had heard the climb was technical: tight gaps between rocks and exposed climbing along the cliffs. Fortunately, all the rocks are perfectly dry and the climb is fun and engaging rather than tediously scary.

The face of Mount Mansfield

mountain The Mansfield crest resembles a human profile, with subpeaks forming the forehead, nose, upper and lower lip, chin, and Adam’s apple. The Chin is the true summit/highest point on the mountain, but all features offer beautiful views of the Green Mountains and all the way to the town of Stowe.

Approaching the chin.

Just after passing the brow, I meet the mountain’s caretaker, Jeremy. We have mutual friends and, despite never having met, they are kind enough to bring me a latte and a breakfast sandwich. We sit in the caretaker’s cabin and watch the sun rise over the rocks before the toll road to the summit opens and the quiet area is flooded with tourists.

Finally I decide I need to get moving and tackle the descent from Mansfield. It will be the first big descent I’ve done since I broke my quad, and a corner of my heart thinks these will be my last miles on the trail. A few steps from the keeper’s cabin, I spot my first moose on the trail and stand perfectly still, watching, until it disappears into the trees near the upper lip.

Find Miss Moose!

However, I climb down slowly and carefully, and am pleasantly surprised at how well my leg holds up. Tentatively, cautiously, perhaps foolishly optimistic, I sit strong in the parking lot on the north side of Mansfield.

The next mountains

Looking at my map, the names of the following mountains are unfamiliar to me: Madonna, Whiteface, Jay. A small pinch on the map scale allows you to see the Canadian border.

60 miles to the Canadian border may not seem like much, but it’s still a long time for something to go wrong.

From the north side of Mount Mansfield, I walk to Sterling Pond, where I plan to have lunch until I see the tour group out and about enjoying their own hikes for the weekend. Hoping to sit in peace and quiet, I move a little further and end up finding a secluded bench with a beautiful aerial view of the lake.

Camp for the night

Only when the shadows begin to lengthen do I begin my hike up Mount Madonna to my camp at Whiteface Shelter. At just under 13 miles, today becomes my shortest full day on the trail, but I force myself to slow down and avoid pushing my leg too hard.

The descent from Mount Mansfield was long, steep and bumpy. I didn’t feel the need to push my quads any more than necessary.

I’d rather be a little bored and sleep 11 hours a night than have to abandon the trail 60 miles from the border.

Today I listen to Lady Madonna by The Beatles and it sounds like all the mountains I have yet to discover.

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