We hadn’t even started properly and the Appalachian Trail was already coming to an end.
The weather changed every day. In just a few days, we experienced what seemed like three different seasons. At first, it was just endless rain and that damp, cold feeling that permeates everything. And then the storm came.
One night, strong winds shook our tent so hard that we couldn’t sleep at all. It was one of the worst nights we’ve had on the road and that says a lot.
I really started to be afraid of storms in Colorado, in the CDT. Especially when it’s pitch black outside and the lightning turns your tent into a strobe light. That’s exactly what woke me up. I could hear the thunder even with my earplugs in.
We were both awake, looking at each other, knowing we’d be okay… but I wouldn’t call it comfortable.
Not exactly a smooth start. These are the kind of conditions that test you immediately, mostly mentally. The views were almost non-existent, the trail turned to mud and we kept moving mainly to stay warm. We barely took any breaks and still managed to get around 15 miles without too much trouble.
The next day everything changed again. Temperatures dropped below freezing and rain turned to snow, just like that. We were very grateful for our rain gear and even more grateful for the shelter at Neel Gap, where we dried all our gear and spent a warm, comfortable night.
After being sick, I expected to have more difficulties, but surprisingly I felt pretty good. The doctor put me on steroids for a few days, so I probably felt a little stimulated. Of course, the usual knee pain appeared and overall your body feels sore and exhausted. The first 10 days to two weeks are always like this. Your body adapts to the load, to the long days, to the repetition. It hurts and that’s just part of the process.
Looking around us, almost everyone is dealing with something. Most people have at least one knee brace and the rest are thinking about getting one.
And the terrain doesn’t make it any easier.
From the beginning, it’s a constant gain and loss of elevation. No warm-up, no relaxation. Straight into uneven terrain, rocks, roots and steep climbs. I always said I didn’t really enjoy the desert section of the CDT, but here I found myself missing it. Flat land has its value. It allows you to find your rhythm, build strength, and get your hiker legs back.
The AT doesn’t wait for that. It throws you right in and lets you figure it out.
The rise at the Georgia-North Carolina border was a good reminder of that. And the stairs on Albert Mountain near the fire tower definitely tested us all. I’m pretty sure everyone walking near me learned at least one bad Czech word that day.
But there are rewards.
We crossed mile 100. A new state and our first big milestone behind us. And then, just like that, the weather changed again. Warmer days, sunshine, even a little tan and, for some, sunburn. From snow to sun in a matter of days.
It’s hard to process everything that can happen here in such a short time.
The days on the road feel intense. Physically demanding, mentally challenging…
My soul feels happy. I didn’t know that for me happiness would be being tired, dirty and eating dinner out of ziplock bags, but here I am. The freedom of movement, the fresh air, the simplicity, the long physical days, even the discomfort somehow make us happier than any day in the city.
Fuego has been amazing through all of this. He’s faster, stronger right now and isn’t dealing with the same level of pain, so it suits me a lot. But we both knew this would be part of it.
Although we are going slower than planned, we managed to catch up with the bubble and the friends we started with. Seeing them again in Franklin was like everything was back in its place.
And the community here… it’s something special. The hikers, locals, and everyone around the AT create this atmosphere that is hard to describe unless you experience it.
I love it here so far. And I’m very curious to see what the next few days will bring.
If there is anything you want me to share more about, feel free to leave a comment. I’m happy to take you with me on this journey.
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