AZT: Vail to Summerhaven – The Hike

Day 8: 3.25

I woke up early to prepare for an interview. I work as a travel nurse and my last contract ended the day before I started this hike. I need to have a job ready to start after I finish my walk. No more Teams with video, so it was nice to look somewhat presentable after showering the day before.

Jo Ann drove Rooster and me back to the trail at 10:30. I thought it would be a very hot day and it was. This section of the trail does not offer much shade.

I had fond memories of the Colossal Cave gift shop and cafe and wanted to stop again. It was different, though: It’s hard to revisit a place you remember loving that doesn’t live up to those memories. The prickly pear ice cream was still a delicious treat, especially after an 85*F, 7 mile hike in direct sun.

We continued for another 8 miles to camp on the edge of Saguaro National Park. My plan was to hike the entire 17.7 miles through the park, since the regulation campsites didn’t align with my mileage goals. Just before camp, I crossed Rincón Creek, which was barely up to my ankles. In 2024, it reached my knees. It’s amazing how little water there is here this year.

Day 9: 3.26

Today was going to be a challenging day. Although it was only about 18 miles, I would have to endure 6000′ of ascent and 4200′ of descent while hiking through Mica Mountain and through Saguaro National Park. It was a steady climb from the SNP boundary to Manning Camp at the top. It took me 8 hours to do the climb with some breaks. I had planned to poop in the camp toilet, but I couldn’t find it. I also had a hard time finding water and ended up crawling down a steep ravine to the stream. In 2024, this entire area will be covered in snow! Today it was 75*F and dry as a bone. I left camp to go dig a cat hole and wrap a tortilla and Nutella before descending the mountain. The descent was even steeper and much harder on the legs. I had to go slowly because I kept slipping on the loose stones. I finally found Rooster 21.3 miles from our last campsite at 7 pm. I was so tired that I didn’t set up my tent and just threw my tyvek next to his to camp under the stars.

As I lay there looking at the stars, all I could think about was how grateful I was to have my body back. I went from not being able to bend over and tie my shoes a year ago to being able to complete this challenging day. I walked an entire mountain and my back didn’t hurt. I didn’t cause a major breakout or setback. I just went to sleep and woke up the next morning before dawn to walk some more.

Day 10 3.27

Another pre-dawn start. Today is expected to be 99*. I’m so sick of the heat wave. I make the 15 miles across open desert to a ramada at a picnic area at 1 pm In the shade my thermometer reads 96* and I can’t even believe what I just did in the heat. The last 2 miles were a steep 700′ climb and then a descent completely exposed to the sun.

I drink a lot of water and refresh myself before going out again at 3 in the afternoon. Some clouds have appeared and a light breeze makes the afternoon more bearable. I get service at the top of the climb and see there is a warning for high winds.

It is not possible to find roosters, so tonight I will camp alone. I make sure to find a very sheltered spot to camp and try to get solid ground in my tent so my stakes don’t fly away in the middle of the night. I’m hiding under a big mesquite tree. My anxiety sets in as soon as the wind picks up. Is this tree strong enough to withstand the wind or have I put myself under a “widow maker”? It’s a completely irrational thought and I calm myself by seeing how healthy the tree is and reminding myself that it has weathered many wind storms and will weather this one too.

Luckily I chose well and only had a few gusts of wind. The tree remains standing and I have a great night’s sleep after another 20 mile day. I’m back in the mountains of Tucson – the same ones I hiked all winter – and I feel right at home.

Day 11: 3.28

It’s over 5000 feet of climbing to Summerhaven and over 17 miles and I simply refuse to do it today. I’m tired. My legs are soooo tired. I decide to only do 12 miles and 4000′ of ascent.

The temperature has dropped at least 15 degrees, but the air quality is poor. I saw a light fog in the morning and the air quality continues to decrease as the day progresses. I’m worried there’s a fire somewhere because at 1pm it already looks like thick smoke. I text Marc asking him to investigate, but he says there are no fires. I think the wind storm kicked up a lot of dust and now it stays in the air. The AQI is in the 70s, which is not good. I take the day easy and with plenty of breaks.

I hear running water as I walk through the canyon and my heart warms at the sound as it has been a while since I heard water. The first stop is Hutch’s Pools, which is a popular swimming spot. I have it to myself and I swim with some fish. It’s crazy that there are fish here. I wet all my clothes to try to get some of the sweat and salt out of them and they feel less stiff.

I stop frequently on the way up and read. It’s good to have a quiet day. There are many changing landscapes throughout the day and I love this about AZT.

Day 12: 3.29

I’m only 4 miles from Summerhaven and I’m really looking forward to breakfast. I pack without making coffee or eating a real meal; a Larabar will have to suffice. I can’t believe how tired my legs still are as I make the last 1000′ climb into town. The morning sun is orange because of all the dust still in the sky.

My first stop is at Beyond Bread and I tell the worker that I’ve been dreaming about quiche and vegetables for the last 4 miles. He hands me a giant plate of vegetables and says he loves helping hikers. I sit on the outside patio drinking coffee, eating vegetables, and charging my devices. Then I cross the street to the general store to get supplies. There is a cardboard box on the front porch with an electric blanket plugged into an outlet. Later I meet Gizmo, the princess of Summerhaven.

I leave Summerhaven around 2pm with a stomach full of food and regrets. I ate too much, but at least it’s a downhill walk from here. Thunder chases me for 8 miles and I get hit by exactly five raindrops. At least the storm cooled the air temperature even if we don’t get the rain we so desperately need.

There is a race called Monster 300 that mainly follows the AZT. I begin to meet runners who are going in the opposite direction to me and I have more than 50 runners and many others who help me advance. It is very interesting to see athletes in different states of being; most seem to hate everything and I probably looked the same when I was relentlessly ascending Mount Lemmon yesterday. Some stop to chat and others seem to be enjoying their 300-mile run.

I stop to camp at one of the few places I’ve seen and I’m not thrilled – it’s on a saddle and very sandy. I know it’s going to be a miserable night if the wind picks up again, but the next campsite is probably 3.5 miles away and it’s 6:15pm. I decide to camp and definitely regret it at 8pm when the wind picks up and starts blowing sand into my tent. I fall asleep and am woken up at 9 pm with a huge pile of sand deposited directly in my eyes. Everything is covered in sand and I start to panic. I called Marc because I know he will be rational. I ask him if I should pack up and go 3.5 miles now or risk a night of misery. He calls me telling me a story about one of his misadventures in the sand while camping. It reminds me that the worst thing that can happen to me is that I won’t sleep, but I will survive the storm and I should stay still. As soon as I get off the phone with him, the wind dies down a bit. In 2 hours, everything outside is completely calm.

The moon sets the next morning on the dusty horizon. Everything is dusty, but I survived. I’m back to camping alone because Rooster is a much faster hiker than I am. I managed to find something to be anxious about every night, but I’ve gotten over those worries. I have yet to have a debilitating panic attack and I am very proud of that. I have been working so hard to change my thoughts that would eventually lead to changing my body’s response. These last two nights have been proof that this is possible and that I am capable.

Creatures I’ve seen in the last 5 days and 82.5 miles

33 people doing outdoor activities, 50+ runners, 82 lizards, 3 hares, 1 squirrel, 6 turkeys, 4 deer, 3 cows, 3 dogs, 1 cat and 3 snakes. Saguaro cacti appeared in this section, as well as many flowering hedgehog cacti. Palo Verde trees are also prominent and bloom heavily.

Biosphere 2 can be seen descending the north side of Mount Lemmon

Water sources I have drunk from

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