Day 18: Everything in North Carolina wants me dead

After a warm bed, a hot shower, and all the comforts of civilization at Gorgeous Stays, I can’t say I was too excited to get back on the trail.

The good news was that this wasn’t really goodbye.

Our plan was to hike about 30 miles to Fontana, tackle some major milestones, and then return to Gorgeous Stays for a couple days of recovery before taking on the Smokies.

So, mentally, I kept reminding myself:

«This is temporary. There’s another shower waiting for me.»

Unfortunately, between me and that future rain was the departure of the NOC.

I was absolutely excited to walk below to the Nantahala Outdoor Center.

Leave it?

It’s not that exciting.

The trail immediately pointed uphill and essentially said, “Welcome back.”

And to make things even more fun, I was carrying a fresh resupply.

Nothing humbles you more than realizing that every snack you bought now lives on your back.

The climb felt endless.

Every time I thought it would surely level out, the trail turned a corner and revealed another uphill section waiting for me.

There weren’t many good places to stop either. Most of my breaks involved standing awkwardly on the side of the trail trying not to slide backwards down the mountain.

My mood was deteriorating rapidly.

I finally stopped at a creek crossing to cool off, fill up on some water, and wipe off some sweat.

And that’s when nature decided it hadn’t suffered enough.

A bee flew directly under my arm and stung me in the armpit.

The armpit

Of all possible locations.

I have piercings in my ears.

I have tattoos.

And I can safely say that the bee sting hurts more than both.

I immediately went from mildly annoyed to personally offended.

The day somehow continued to get stranger.

Later, I stopped at an overlook to take another break when two hikers behind me casually informed me that I had been standing about three feet away from a huge black rattlesnake.

Something that would have been useful to know before I sat down.

I was also informed that I had passed a copperhead earlier that day.

Again.

Completely unconscious.

At this point, I’m honestly surprised I noticed the trail.

I spend all day staring at the ground and somehow I still miss every creature that tries to share the forest with me.

To be fair, that’s probably better for both me and the snakes.

As if the bees and snakes weren’t enough, I finally got cell service.

Immediately a message came from Narwhale.

He informed me that a juvenile black bear had just tricked him and that I should be careful.

Awesome.

Exactly the update I was hoping for.

In that moment I genuinely felt as if every living thing in North Carolina had gathered for a meeting and collectively decided that I was the problem.

Wildlife wasn’t the only concern floating around.

There have also been increasing reports of norovirus spreading among hikers.

That meant no sleeping shelter and, sadly, no use of private amenities.

The shelter part didn’t bother me much.

I have felt quite comfortable sleeping in my tent.

But the toilet situation?

Let’s say logistics become significantly less convenient.

One of the many glamorous aspects of life on the Appalachian Trail that doesn’t show up on postcards.

At the end of the day, we finally reached Sassafras Gap.

I was exhausted.

Completely sold out.

And just when I thought the suffering was over, we were immediately swarmed by what seemed like every flying insect in North Carolina.

The insects were so relentless that I retreated to my tent and ate dinner inside just to avoid becoming part of the food chain.

Not exactly the picturesque outdoor dining experience I had imagined.

But honestly?

I didn’t care.

He had achieved it.

The NOC departure is known for making hikers question their life choices, and I completely understand why.

There were definitely times throughout the day where I wondered what exactly I had signed up for.

But despite the uphill climb, the bee stings, the snakes, the bear reports, the norovirus and bug concerns…

I still managed to get to the camp.

And sometimes that’s enough.

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