Day 28 – The most difficult day

September 12 – Blue Mountains TrailNE Oregon

Hell Canyon.

long bar

It rained a lot last night, the heaviest overnight rain so far. So much for the fact that it doesn’t rain much in Hells Canyon. But the clouds began to dissipate immediately as the sun began to hit them. I enjoyed another chicken dinner for breakfast and then headed out. I was beginning a long section on the Western Rim National Recreation Trail, today heading up and up Dug Creek.

Western Rim/Nimiipuu Trail

excavated stream

Further down, the trail was good and easy to follow. There was still open grass. I saw some turkeys and a couple of moose. Then the trail turned into the Dug Creek wash and things steadily got worse. Poison oak was plentiful around here. And I had never fully appreciated how prickly wild roses are.

I need to go there today. Sigh.

The trail showed signs of being cleared, but as I headed up the trail conditions deteriorated. The third crossing of Dug Creek was a good place to stop and refill water. I debated with myself over how much water to carry, a real conundrum when the trail is so steep on a hot day and yet each liter weighs 2.2 pounds. I decided on 3 liters, to one of which I would add Liquid IV.

Hello turkeys!

These two moose looked at me like «what the hell are you doing up here?» They didn’t even run.

The climb seemed endless. I moved very slowly as I made my way through the bushes. I sometimes went off trail as the trail went up the turnoff where the vegetation was thicker, but often there was a more open route slightly outside the turnoff on the slope. It was definitely a full body workout. Finally, I saw the upper ridge and felt more energized.

A young poison oak forest.

The way up.

Then I was at the top of the ridge. It was just a side ridge, so I had more elevation to go, but I was happy to be out of the box and on high ground. I took a long break to drink, eat and dry off. I must have sweated gallons going up that road!

Fingerboard Saddle

After my break I was left with only ¾ of a liter of water. But I didn’t worry, because there was supposed to be a reliable spring on Square Mountain, at the top of the climb. But the spring was dry. I had almost drank all the water I had left before detouring towards the spring, but luckily I decided to wait until I got there. I then detoured to another spring near the top of the ridge, but it was also dry and the livestock had been damaged.

Approaching the saddle of the fingerboard.

So, here I was, on top of this incredible ridge with amazing views, and I was worried about the water situation. I figured I had two options: (1) Go down the ridge on a side trail to reach some water in a major stream. The downside is that it would require a significant drop and lift recovery. Maybe even a 2000′ drop. (2) I continued up Summit Ridge and along the BMT route, knowing there would be no water along the ridge, but with each step I would get closer to a reliable water source that I would reach tomorrow morning. I decided on the latter.

I continued up Summit Ridge past Fingerboard Saddle. As the day wore on, I found a flat spot along the ridge to set up camp. I hadn’t had any water in about 4 hours because I had decided to save enough for dinner. I would eat oatmeal for dinner again as it uses the least amount of water. Then I would have a couple of drinks and maybe even a drink in the morning.

Sunset, looking NE.

My campsite was amazing – right on the ridge with views in every direction. I was very exhausted after that climb and I was also very thirsty. Not having water wasn’t the best way to recover from such a hard day, but I used one of my remaining drinks to take a dose of Alleve to help with the post-hike aches. I reviewed the maps before going to bed to come up with my water strategy for the morning. Then I slept, quite well actually. Maybe because I didn’t have to get up at night to urinate.

Sunset from my camp. From that tree one of the owls hooted.

owls

During the night I was awakened by two owls, each in a tree downhill on either side of the ridge. Due to the slope, they were about the same level as my tent and very close. They screamed back and forth for about 20 minutes. It was a wonderful experience. I know that in some cultures owls are seen as omens of death, and in others as spirits of protection or good fortune. I thought about that and decided to go for the positive.

Elevation Tracker

Day 28: 6,583′

Total: 85,799′

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