Facing AT as a Lonely Woman


Keeping it low

I didn’t tell almost anyone that I was going to spend 7 weeks on the AT last year. My husband and kids knew, but otherwise I told about 4 or 5 outdoor friends of my plans. Keeping silent seemed insincere to me, but I didn’t dare talk about my plans. I’ve wanted to climb the AT since I was in my twenties, but often when I mentioned this goal to people I was met with a mix of mild disbelief and concern. Those exchanges left me deflated. Now in my 50s, I wasn’t about to absorb the negative energy of well-meaning people who inevitably asked, «Are you going with someone? Is it safe?» It would be easier to talk about it once he returned home.

Pre-ride nervousness

As my start date approached, I started thinking more about the trail, and by more I mean all the time. Would I be warm enough? Did you have the right equipment? Would I make friends? Should I bring my bear bag or my bear can? How would I book a lodge if my old cell phone rarely had service in the woods? It was like living in two worlds at once: my civilian life and the life that awaited me on the road. I was nervous about the “first day of school.” I felt a slight thrill of adrenaline coursing through my body and I loved it.

Solo backpacker

Although I’ve done countless solo day hikes, I’ve only backpacked once and I HATED it. I did a 4-day solo loop in a fairly remote area of ​​the Smokies and I had never felt so alone in my life. The first day I came across bear scat several times and a lot of it was so fresh that I knelt down and put my hand out to see if it was still warm. (I don’t know what he planned to do with this information.) That afternoon I encountered a bear on the trail about a mile from the shelter. It ran away when I screamed, but it shook me. At night, every branch stepped on by an animal sounded louder than it really was. The trail was so overgrown in places that it was difficult to see what was ahead, so I sang or talked just in case I encountered another bear. (spoiler: I did it) Just seeing 2 or 3 people each day on the trail felt more isolated than I expected. I knew things were difficult when I started reciting the prologue to “Romeo and Juliet” from 9.th degree English. Many hikers go outdoors to get away from people, but on my solo trip I learned that I’m not one of them.

Starting only on the AT

Why wasn’t I worried about getting on the AT alone? Because I knew I wouldn’t be alone.

The beauty of hiking the Appalachian Trail is that you can make it as social or solitary as you want. Do you want to be surrounded by people? Camp near shelters at night. For the first few weeks, there will be plenty of fellow hikers to talk to – it will be a great Cnoc cocktail. You’ll find yourself chatting with other hikers in the afternoons and will probably leave camp at the same time as everyone else in the mornings. Do you prefer to be alone? Start very early in the morning, arrive late at night, or stealth camp.

You’re alone, boy

Even if you end up on a tram or in a hiker bubble, guess what? You will probably spend a LOT of time walking alone. Although I started the AT as a solo hiker, I quickly joined a group, but we all had different habits. Marbles and Wing It greeted each morning like baby chicks coming out of their shells and seeing the world for the first time. It took them a while to acclimatize. Late Start didn’t even move in their tent until mid-morning (hence the name). I, on the other hand, liked to wake up and get going as quickly as possible. (Marbles once described my packing style as “violent.”) We usually walked separately for much of the day and met at an agreed upon shelter or campsite in the evenings. I spent a lot of time alone on last year’s LASH walk, which I really enjoyed, but I was also looking forward to catching up with my friends at the end of the day. The AT offers the best of both worlds!

Some tips for solo hikers

Of course, there are safety concerns for hikers who actually go alone, especially if they are women. Do not camp within a few miles of a road or parking lot. A small carabiner on the inside of your tent’s zipper acts as a deterrent if anyone tries to break in. If you can, bring a device like a Garmin InReach. If you have to hitchhike into town alone, thank the driver and explain that it’s perfect timing because you just texted your sister/dad/cousin telling her you’ll call in 20 minutes. When you arrive at the campground in the evenings, check the vibes by talking to other hikers when you arrive. Trust your instincts: If someone seems agitated or «unpleasant,» consider moving on.

I loved being on a tram at last year’s LASH, but there’s no guarantee I’ll «find my tribe» this time, and that’s okay. I will continue to meet and talk to people from all walks of life who are with me in the Great Green Tunnel. A new adventure awaits you!

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