Government closes Cumberland Island hike

dream deferred

Cumberland Island National Seashore is the largest and southernmost barrier island in Georgia. Its pristine natural habitat is home to wild horses, sea turtles, armadillos and alligators. The undeveloped beaches are considered some of the most beautiful on the East Coast. It has more than 50 miles of hiking trails. The fantastic campsites offer peace and serenity.
With no bridges to connect to the mainland, it can only be accessed via the Cumberland Island Ferry. The ferry service is authorized, regulated and supervised by the National Park Service (NPS), a federal agency significantly affected by the government shutdown. The ferry has been docked at St Mary’s, the mainland port, since October 1. Operations were suspended and hiking plans were cancelled.

I used to be a good swimmer. But seven miles is a long way to go. Kayak? Rent a private boat? Ask the locals? I called the St. Mary’s Tourism Department, several businesses in town and posted inquiries on Facebook. No luck. I feel bad for them too. October is the best time to visit the area. Money is being lost. One man I spoke to on the phone was headed to City Hall to offer his large pontoon as a way to transport hikers. He never called me again. I read about the strict federal regulations in place that prohibit private boats from transporting people. I have no doubt that his plan failed.

Yes, I’m disappointed. Cumberland Island has been on my hiking radar for a few years and it was finally going to happen. I had booked the campsites months ago and was looking forward to hiking through forests, beaches and marshes. I had planned to camp three nights and hike about 30 miles.

The island has tons of history. It was once the largest cotton plantation in the world. Remains of the Gullah slaves’ homes are still preserved. John F Kennedy, Jr. and Carolyn Bessette were married there at the First African Baptist Church, a center of worship and community for the descendants of those slaves. After the Civil War, the Carnegies purchased much of the island and held it until 1972, when they sold it to the NPS. Many characters have lived, and live, on the Island. I’m reading a book about one now, Untamed The wildest woman in Americaby Will Harlan about Carol Ruckdeschel. Self-taught scientist, defender of sea turtles, extraordinary naturalists. I have dreamed of meeting her on the island and asking if she could share a story with me.

The leaves are beautiful now in the Appalachian Mountains of southwest Virginia, so I really shouldn’t complain that much. I’ve spent the last few weeks training for my backpacking trip to Cumberland Island hiking through dazzlingly colored mountains and forests. Bluebird skies. Gold and red leaves. Fresh and energetic air. I meet others along the way and we stop and talk about how lucky we are to be here on another glorious day. Far from the madness of the «real» world, walking with my dog ​​in the quiet, peaceful haven of the woods. There is nowhere else I would rather be. Except maybe, Cumberland Island. But I’ve heard that spring is also a good time to visit.

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