This is a guest post by Ramona “Luna” Mraz (full bio at the end). Submit your own hiking story to The Trek here.
Yo I stood with my hands on my hips, breathing in the crisp September air and staring at the sign in disbelief. «666,» he announced nonchalantly, pointing the way to the path he needed to follow. An ominous mountain plateau towered above me. The mountain exuded a foreboding energy just from its proximity, standing firm at over 3,000 meters.
I felt a chill run through me. Was this some kind of omen? Should I turn around? The forecast of thunderstorms later that day might have convinced me, but somehow I couldn’t. I had climbed too high and the mystery was calling me too strongly. I had to see where this path would take me.
Alta Via 2 is not for happy people. This trail passes through some of the most exposed and rugged landscape in the Dolomites, with 11,300 meters of ascent and 11,200 meters of descent over 180 km. Go through sections of via ferratafixed cables and ladders along steep cliffs. The high altitude of the Dolomites also threatens dangerous weather conditions, and there is little protection from the elements well above the tree line.
But there are some luxuries, like the mountain hut (shelter) where I drink my cappuccino at 11am after almost slipping down a rocky slide and where I can spend the night if the weather turns bad.
The trail begins in the Italian town of Bressanone and winds south through the heart of the Dolomites to Feltre. The panoramas are the stuff of dreams: wide, lush valley pastures contrasting with craggy rocky peaks. Lunar landscapes that dissolve into rich forests of spruce and spruce. Enormous mountain peaks etched with hundreds of millions of years of Earth’s history in their layers.
Photo: Molly Mraz
A playground for the gods
Born from a tropical sea at the time of Pangea, the Dolomites have a unique soul. The calcium-rich sediments of that sea were later smothered by volcanic discharge, creating a mosaic of unique geological material. When the European and African plates collided, the rocks folded into peaks and then, over time, were eroded by wind and glaciers.
Walking along the ancient barrier reef, you can observe the striking colors and unusual formations of the minerals that make up this geological history. Spiers and pinnacles frame the massifs like castle towers. Colossal walls fall into huge plateaus and water falls endlessly into deep canyons. The landscape looks like a playground for the gods.
The trail also has historical significance in human history, as it was a front line in World War I between Austro-Hungarian and Italian forces. He via ferrataTunnels and roads that now form Alta Via 2 were once used to transport military troops and supplies over the dangerous terrain. War remains and debris can still be found, as well as artificial bunkers and caves.
Photo: Molly Mraz
«At least it could only get better from here.»
This hike had been on my bucket list since I saw my first photo of the Dolomites. The photo looked almost unreal: the kind of mountains you can stare at endlessly, wondering how they are possible. When I had the opportunity to pursue a master’s degree in Europe, I knew that Alta Vía 2 was in my sights.
When my feet finally reached the north end, I felt the immediate ease of beginning a hike. Nothing but me, my backpack, and the trail spread out in front of me. I felt a wave of calm and excitement for what the trail would bring me.
But as I approached the first climb, I felt the first drops of rain bounce off my face. Menacing storm clouds gathered overhead by the minute, and thunder echoed throughout the valley. A torrential downpour lashed relentlessly, driven forcefully by an icy wind. When I stopped to set up my tent (disclaimer: wilderness camping is technically not allowed), I was soaked. I took off my wet clothes, wrung out my socks, and stood shivering under the quilt, exhausted. At least it could only get better from here.
And so it was. As the days passed, I was blessed with endless views and unforgettable experiences. Each mountain pass crossed opened a portal to another world. I climbed rocky cliffs and wandered through ancient forests. I laughed until my stomach hurt with other hikers and ate mountain-sized plates of bolognese. I let myself be absorbed by the vastness of space, the scale of the mountains and stars swallowing me whole.
And even among the intimidating peaks that control an energy so powerful it left me shaking, I felt connected to this place where beauty and power dance so playfully.
After nine days, my heart was so full of adventure that I couldn’t bear to leave. After finishing, I spent three more weeks hiking in the Dolomites. I had also fallen in love with these mountains and the story they told. Immersing myself in his presence brought me a much-needed feeling of belonging after the existential chaos of a master’s degree. I left feeling restored and incredibly grateful, knowing that I will return to wander among these giants again.
Photo: Molly Mraz
About the author
Hi, I’m Ramona! I am an interdisciplinary artist, writer, and environmentalist exploring narratives of the Earth. I have hiked several long-distance trails, including the AT, PCT, and Camino de Santiago. In 2026, I plan to begin a walk around the world in a storytelling project known as The Collective Canvas, where I will further explore the narratives of human-earth connections through art during a walk across 5 continents and approximately 56,000 km.
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Featured Image: Molly Mraz
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