PCT SOBO DAY 87 – Swimming in a Sierra Lake

Day 88

Start: Campground, mile 1678.0

Finish: Glen Aulin Sierra Camp, mile 1706.4

Miles driven: 28.4 miles

Today I was on a mission. I wanted to get to the Glen Aulin campground so I could take the YARTS bus to Yosemite Valley the next morning. The only problem was that it was a bit far away and today I had to face a big climb. That meant I would probably have to do a night hike.

Knowing I had a long day ahead of me, I got up, had breakfast, and hit the trail. Looking around, I could see everything I had missed while walking at night in this area last night. The stream I had drawn water from was much larger than I thought and great mountains rose on either side of me.

Rounding a bend in the trail, I saw my first lakes of the day. They were small but so cute. This would have been an amazing place to camp last night! Another hiker was gathering his things in the distance, but everything else was quiet.

After a brief descent, I began the biggest climb of the day. I had to climb 3000 feet for about 6 miles. It’s not that bad, but it’s not easy either. The climb would take me to 10,000 feet and past Benson Pass. The first part of the climb was steep! I stopped for a snack and chatted with a guy who was out for the day. He said he was on a multi-day trip but only had a small backpack with him.

We walked and chatted for a while as we both climbed the climb. He was from the area and a triathlete, but was recovering from an injury. This was his “easy” exercise to get back into the swing of things. He told me about his childhood in the ’70s, how he rode horses backwards at summer camp, and all the crazy, dangerous things he did before people and parents worried too much about safety.

I was a fast hiker, so before long we ended up at Lake Smedberg, where I found Zee and John sitting on a rock on the shore. This was my big opportunity to swim in the Sierra! I said goodbye to my brief hiking companion and sat down with the other hikers. They weren’t going in, but that didn’t stop me. Although I didn’t quite get into the water, I enjoyed 20 minutes of waist-deep wading. The water temperature was almost perfect and the sun warmed my skin. I could see the triathlete on the other side of the lake doing laps.

I would have liked to spend the whole morning at the lake, but I had more miles to do. As I walked out, the pristine perfection of the place left me in awe. This was a little corner of heaven that I needed to return to at some point. High on the mountain, surrounded only by peaks, it felt as if the outside world did not exist at all.

After riding the last two miles, I finally reached Benson Pass. I had a long descent and then a hike through a flat valley. As I ate my lunch, I didn’t hear a peep except the babbling of the nearby stream. I guess all the birds had gone to warmer climates to avoid the harsh winter.

Energized for my next climb, I prepared to tackle the 1,500 feet of elevation gain ahead of me. I passed by a few more backpackers for several days and soon found myself at Miller Lake. Wow, how wonderful! This was another one to put on the list of places to return to. I didn’t have enough time to swim in this lake, but the water was relatively warm when I dipped my hand. Some boys were sitting around the lake, soaking up the rays of the late afternoon sun. What a life!

As I got closer to Tuolumne Meadows, more and more people appeared on the trail. I was getting closer to civilization! I passed the junction toward McCabe Lakes, the place I stayed during my second solo trip and first hike on the PCT. I wanted to try to get to Virginia Canyon, I was tired from my 10 mile day and didn’t think I could make it. How times have changed!

I walked past Zee and John one last time and then continued walking as the sun set. Having hiked this part of the trail before, I knew it was pretty easy, perfect for evening hikes. When the dark blue sky turned black, I turned on the flashlight and walked in the dark. As I walked through the flat, open valley, I heard coyotes howling in the distance. The stars were shining in the night sky and I only had a point of brightness to light my path.

I didn’t get to Glen Aulin campground until 8:45pm, but I made it! I felt bad trying to blindly find my way to a place and shine my flashlight into other people’s shops, but I had no idea where I was or what the place was like. Finally, I found a cowboy campsite, had dinner, and took my well-deserved rest.

And that’s a day in the life of a PCT SOBO hiker!

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