Day 91
Start: Whitney Creek, mile 1888.3
Finish: Crabtree Meadow, near mile 1888.3
Miles Traveled: 15.9 miles, 0 miles trail
Whitney Day!! As planned, I woke up before dawn, packed my things, and headed toward Crabtree Meadow. The air was a little chilly, but I quickly warmed up and shed my layers within minutes of starting the hike.
After a short 1.2 miles, I arrived at Crabtree Meadow just after sunrise. The place seemed empty! I saw a couple of tents in the trees, but it was nothing like the chaos of the summer season. It was just the way I liked it.
I quickly hid some things in the far corner of the bear box and headed towards Whitney. This was my second time climbing Mount Whitney, so I knew what to expect. The hardest part for me was breathing once I reached ~14,200 feet. The climb up there was relatively gentle and curvy, so I had to take it slow and easy and I would make it to the top.
Today’s forecast called for clear skies, but that was not the reality. A thick cloud hung over the summit, stubborn and motionless in an otherwise clear sky. I expected it to dissipate as the morning progressed, but that didn’t seem likely.
I began my approach in the soft morning light. Wow, that was awesome! I was very happy to be here and have the opportunity to climb the Whitney again. I had been waiting for this for almost my entire hike and I was finally here! I passed by the tranquil lakes and marveled at the pure beauty that surrounded me. It was a perfect day for a hike!
After a while, I arrived at Guitar Lake and saw my first hikers of the day. Some of them were standing in groups and chatting despite the cold weather. They seemed to have already reached the summit and were celebrating their hard work. I waved at them and continued on to the next phase of the hike: the switchbacks!
The switchback section is long, but relatively forgiving. The only thing that stopped me was the elevation. I could already feel the lack of oxygen in the air and had to take short breaks every few changes. I passed a JMT hiker from Germany with a full pack, but with all my breaks, we ended up overtaking each other to the top.
At the junction to head to Whitney Portal, I really ran into the crowd of hikers. There were many people who had started from Whitney Portal the day before and had just reached the top or were about to reach the top. The flow of people in both directions did not end. Some people asked me if I was cold because all I was wearing were gloves, but the climb kept me warm. I even met a reader of my blog! Small world!
Near the top, I started to feel cold. I had to stop more often to catch my breath, and the dark, heavy cloud was getting closer. The wind whipped between the slides and ice appeared on the road. I put on my puffy clothes, a second pair of gloves, and my glove to keep warm. The last 0.2 miles were tough because the air was so thin, but I finally made it!
And yes, it was cold! I was now firmly in the cloud and chunks of snowy ice swirled around me. Some guys came down with ice covering their beards and mustaches. I huddled in the stone hut to keep warm and celebrated with my fellow hikers. One woman was a runner and had come running from Whitney Portal. He didn’t stay at the top for long.
We all took our photos and looked around a bit, but there wasn’t much to see. We were on a cloud! There was a brief moment where it looked like the sun was going to come out to warm things up, but another cloud came to cover it up. Not wanting to freeze anymore, I finally went down.
Of course, the descent was much easier than the ascent. I came out of the cloud and instantly felt warmer. The view was spectacular despite the weather. The rugged, rocky mountains never cease to amaze me.
As I was returning to Crabtree Meadow, it started to rain. I had brought my raincoat and umbrella so I was well prepared. When I returned to camp and settled into my tent, it started to rain heavily. Perfect moment! My goal was to walk a few more miles today since it was only 3pm, but as soon as I lay down in my tent, fatigue overcame me.
After eating, I decided it would be a restful afternoon after all. For the rest of the day I did nothing but lie down. It was glorious! As the night progressed a few more hikers showed up, but I preferred to rest than socialize. Plus, it was cold outside. With nothing else to do once the sun set, I happily fell asleep.
And that’s a day in the life of a PCT SOBO hiker!
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