Start of my Big PCT Year: Early Season Hike in the SoCal Section (Days 4-6.5)

I recently finished walking about 150 miles from the Mexican border to Paradise Valley Cafe from late February to early March, which took me just under a week. This post is the second part of my recap of that first week of travel, with notes on conditions and logistics that may be helpful to others leaving soon (you can find my recap of days 1-3 here).

Day 4 (March 3): Camp to Third Gate: 26 miles

Marathon Day!

I started walking in the dark to beat the heat and soon enjoyed a stunning sunrise. After only 2.7 miles, I stopped at a water tank to fill up. Purple wildflowers lined the trail leading there and I found myself saying out loud, «It’s so beautiful!» before realizing there was a section hiker packing up camp right next to the trail. Oops! There weren’t many people here, so I had gotten used to having the trail to myself.

After that, the trail narrowed and hugged the side of a ridge as it descended toward the iconic Scissors Crossing. Some parts of the trail were crumbling towards the cliffs below, but I didn’t find it too difficult to traverse this section of trail.

The descent towards Cruce de Tijeras

I continued on until I reached the junction at kilometer 11, where I took my lunch break under the overpass. I was incredibly grateful to discover that the trail angels had left two folding chairs, dozens of gallons of water, and a trash can. It sounds very simple, but sitting in a chair and throwing out the trash I was carrying was a huge relief. I made sure to leave them a big donation.

Enjoying lunch under the overpass at Scissors Crossing

After lunch, I headed out into the heat and started heading up into the mountains for the rest of the day. The mountains on this side of the crossing had different desert plants, including new cacti that were just beginning to bloom. It was fascinating to see the landscape change and helped make the climb in the full sun more bearable.

As I continued climbing, I realized that I probably hadn’t consumed enough calories and wasn’t carrying enough food. Just then, a couple of hikers appeared from the opposite direction and offered me a bag of dates. It’s amazing that trail magic really exists! We chatted briefly before continuing on our way and I gratefully enjoyed my new high-calorie snack.

As the afternoon wore on, I began to really feel the toll of the heat. The trail was becoming increasingly overgrown, and after spending most of the day walking along exposed cliffs, I was also becoming mentally fatigued. I began taking breaks every hour, collapsing into any shade I could find. I struggled the last few miles, but needed to get to the camps near the Third Gate, where there was a water tower about a quarter mile from the trail.

That steep quarter-mile trail was nerve-wracking at the end of such a long day, but I was so grateful for the trail angel who supplies it and left another donation. Days like this make it very clear how essential the angels of the path really are. Our walks would not be possible without your generosity. On the way back to my campsite, as exhausted as I was, I appreciated how beautiful the wildflowers were.

The side road back to the PCT from the water tower

I’ll be honest, I wasn’t able to physically prepare for this hike as much as I would have liked. At home in the Northeast, a particularly cold and snowy winter made it difficult to consistently train outdoors. On top of that, I started to feel some pain in my knee toward the end of my training, so I took the last 10 days leading up to this trip to fully rest. I knew going into this section that I was not in top shape and that it was going to be uncomfortable. I just hoped it wouldn’t be that hard.

That night I went to bed feeling discouraged and questioning myself. Why was he spending my vacation time and money to make me suffer? I was proud of myself for running a marathon, but I wish it hadn’t been so challenging. It was a reminder that the PCT has a way of humbling you when you least expect it.

Day 5 (March 4): Third gate to camp near mile 113.1 – 22 miles

a magical day

I started walking again in the dark and climbed a few kilometers before another beautiful sunrise. From there I went practically into the shade. I’m proud to say I walked 8 miles before 8:00 am! I continued to mile 10 before stopping to refill water at the spring near mile 101.1, which was flowing well. It didn’t occur to me until after crossing Montezuma Valley Road that I had reached the 100 mile mark! Realizing that I had walked 100 miles filled me with pure joy.

For the rest of the day, the trail ran through mostly farmland, which was a beautiful change of scenery. When I finally turned the corner and saw Eagle Rock in the distance, I got so excited that I started running towards it. I couldn’t believe it: after 100 miles total, after a hard day of hiking in a marathon yesterday, after days of battling blisters, pain, and unrelenting heat, here I was running through a field of wildflowers toward one of the most iconic places on the PCT.

Getting to Eagle Rock was so special!

After stopping in Eagle Rock, I began the descent toward Warner Springs. On the way, someone running in backpacking gear passed me and a few miles later I ran into him again at the community center. We chat while we charge our devices and resupply. Some other hikers from the section also showed up later. The center wasn’t officially open for another week, but there were a few people there preparing it for the incoming bubble of hikers. I was very grateful to be able to take a shower.

Feeling invigorated, I walked a few more miles through farmland and then reached the edge of the Cleveland National Forest again. I stopped at a campsite with picnic tables for dinner before heading a little further to a campsite with a view.

Day 6 (March 5): Camping to Mike’s Place: 27.3 miles

Mike’s Place Squared

Despite camping a little higher up, I was disappointed to wake up to find condensation collecting inside my tent. One of my least favorite parts of being on the trail is packing a wet tent. I dealt with that constantly on the Appalachian Trail. This was something I really hoped I wouldn’t have to deal with on the PCT.

I left earlier, knowing I had a long 16 mile climb ahead of me and hoping to finish most of it while the temperatures were still cool. For the first few miles, the trail crossed Agua Caliente Creek several times and was overgrown, so navigating in the dark was slower than I would have liked. Finally, I climbed above the trees and witnessed a beautiful sunrise and a cloud inversion spread out below me.

I was very grateful for the cooler morning and managed to cover 14 miles mostly in the shade before reaching the first Mike’s Place. Unfortunately, it didn’t look like anyone was home, but I was grateful for the opportunity to fill up on water and sit at the picnic tables in the shade for lunch. I also took advantage of the warm sun to dry my tent and sleeping bag after this morning’s condensation. On the AT, my gear never dried so quickly!

The sign for the first Mike’s Place.

As I was getting ready to leave, a hiker showed up, so we chatted for a minute before heading back for the last two miles of the climb. The day became warmer and although the heat was a bit harsh, I enjoyed the views as the trail descended.

I kept hoping the creek at mile 136.5 would be running, as there weren’t many reliable water options in this stretch. When I got there, my heart sank. Mud.

I began walking upstream along the creek bed, following animal tracks. I thought animals need water too, right? Fortunately, I was right! I was able to find a trickle deep enough to collect water.

Animal tracks leading to the creek at mile 136.5 that was barely trickling

I’m not sure what was in that water because it tasted bad, but it must also have magical properties. I suddenly felt so strong and knew I could push on to the second Mike’s Place instead of stopping early at a campground. In fact, I felt so good that I practically ran the four miles there!

I was very happy to have made that decision. Lihat juga yhbg. My portable charger died shortly after arriving and they offered me refreshments and a spot inside their trailer, which kept me warm and out of the wind overnight. I signed my trail name on the trailer wall and was delighted to recognize some other names of hikers I had met on the Appalachian Trail or on my first section of the PCT last year. It’s amazing how small the hiking world is and I’m grateful to be a part of it.

That night, I felt so proud after completing my first ultramarathon on the PCT, especially knowing I still had more in the tank. After the discouragement I had felt just two days before, this day seemed like a turning point. I realized I had been struggling with imposter syndrome even after completing the Appalachian Trail. I didn’t grow up backpacking or knowing anyone who backpacked. Everything I knew about long distance hiking I had to learn on my own.

Last year, I climbed my first section of the PCT after recovering from two major injuries. Not knowing what to expect on the PCT and worried about re-injuring myself, I chose to hike about 20 miles a day, while NOBO hikers who clearly had their trail legs passed me by doing 30 miles a day or even more. During that trip, I didn’t feel like I was in “Beast Mode.” I felt like I needed a new trail name on the PCT. This was the first day on the PCT where I felt like I was finally living up to my trial name. Maybe I’m Beast Mode on the PCT after all.

Day 6.5 (March 6): Mike’s Place to Paradise Valley Cafe – 13.5 miles

A half marathon to the finish line

It was cold and windy when I left Mike’s Place early that morning. I was treated to a really beautiful sunrise and tons of wildflowers. As I approached the Paradise Valley Cafe, the trail passed some impressive cliffs and the miles flew by. I felt like the PCT had in store for me a very special morning for my last day of riding this section.

Before long I caught a glimpse of Mount San Jacinto in the distance and reached the side trail that led to the cafe. Just as I arrived, the same hiker I had met at the Warner Springs Community Center ran out to meet me and invited me to have breakfast with him. We swapped stories and chatted with the waitress, who had served PCT hikers there for almost a decade.

Celebrating the end of my hiking section with breakfast at Paradise Valley Cafe!

Soon enough my transportation arrived and it was time to say goodbye to the trail for now. It was one last adventure before returning home.

Looking to the future

This section may have been short, but it was full of unexpected goodness, small victories, and moments that remind me why I keep coming back to the trail. I can’t wait to come back soon for my next section on the PCT! Best of luck to all the hikers who will be leaving from Campo in the coming months! I wish you strong legs, full water sources and lots of magic on the trails. Something special awaits you out there.