Stormy shakedown in the Pinhoti


Join me on a solo adventure through a section of the Pinhoti Trail. We’ll cross fast-moving streams, hike through burnt pine forests, and enjoy the sunny foothills of the Appalachians in northeast Alabama.

Day 1, 3.3 miles, Coleman Lake Trailhead -> Laurel Shelter

I decided to get some sleep this morning before heading down to Pinhoti. I usually get up early for these trips, but I needed sleep. It was just before 11 a.m. when I began my four-hour drive south to 8 Acorns Hostel in Heflin, Alabama. The trip was rainy and uneventful. It was my first time in Alabama, so I sang “Sweet Home Alabama” to celebrate when I crossed the state line.

I arrived at the hostel around 2:30 p.m., ready to stretch my legs. I parked at 8 Acorns and Duska drove me to the Coleman Lake Trailhead. 8 Acorns is a nonprofit organization that provides accessible outdoor recreation for veterans and people with disabilities. They also have a hostel for hikers and offer transfers. I highly recommend them and plan to return for future hikes in the Pinhoti section.

Duska dropped me off at the trailhead and I began my journey in the rain. The rain kept coming and coming, but I tried to embrace the humidity. It was already 3:30 pm, so I decided to target the Laurel Shelter (3.3 miles away) as a stopping point.

There were a couple of unique things I noticed during my walk. One: the panorama had changed. In Tennessee, there are big, bushy trees (sorry, I’m not a tree expert), but here I was surrounded by towering pines. Two: I passed by Shoal Creek Church. This church was originally built around 1895 and has an old cemetery, including that of Captain John R Roach of the Confederate Army. You can even take a look inside! As someone who appreciates history, I found it very interesting (learn more at: https://shoalcreekchurch.net/). Smoke still lingered from a recent prescribed burn, adding to the spooky vibe of the day..

Shoal Creek Baptist Church

The shelter was a relief because I was tired of being soaked in the rain. Although I am not a religious person, the hanging cross and Bible in the trail journal box made me feel a kind of peace. I had the place to myself, but opted for my tent because I wanted to test out its waterproofing capabilities. The building was situated between a gurgling stream and a somewhat burned pine forest.

Dinner was Buffalo BBQ Mac n’ Cheese from Peak Refuel. It was delicious, but it didn’t really have any cheese flavor. Oh ok. Everything tastes good when you go backpacking. For dessert, I had a Snickers bar and my friend Cole’s famous whiskey apple cider powder.

Then, I tried to get some sleep. The first night is always the hardest.

Within 30 minutes of trying to sleep, a strong storm broke out. I contemplated my life as water began to splash all over me. Maybe it’s time to replace this old tent on the Appalachian Trail. Thank goodness I tried it on this hike. I gathered all my courage and carried my mat, quilt and pillow to the shelter while trying to stay dry. I found a Sudoku book and played while the storm subsided.

Day 2, 17.9 miles, Refugio Laurel -> Campsite with views

I woke up peacefully to a flood. I slept wonderfully in the shelter, but was faced with the task of taking down my soaked tent and avoiding huge puddles and streams that formed during the night.

To start the day, I had to cross a river that had become too deep. I placed my trekking pole in the water and it barely touched the bottom. Oh boy. Determined to avoid swimming in freezing water at 7am, I looked for a shallower path. I found a crossing that was knee-deep in fast-moving water. It’s not ideal, but it’s better. Who needs coffee when you have ice water in your shoes (I still do)?

I lost count of how many rivers I forded today, but none were as treacherous as the first. The first part of my day was pretty smoky. This part of the trail had burned two days ago, but there was still smoke.

I had a breakfast of champions (two packets of cinnamon-spiced oatmeal with instant coffee) during my first stop at Pine Glen Campground. Then I continued and was completely distracted until lunch time. The only thing I remember was thinking that I need to learn how to play Sudoku.

My lunch stop was at the Lower Shoals Shelter. I had two tuna sandwiches and some jerky. I have to hit those protein goals.

I continued my walk with an empty mind until THE SUN RISED! After a mix of rain, clouds and smoke, this made all the difference. The last ~2.5 miles were filled with beautiful views of the Appalachian foothills and Mount Cheaha in the distance. The sunny skies highlighted the vibrant greens of the pine forest and lifted my mood.

I dried off all my wet things, made some desiccated coconut chicken curry, and ate a Snickers while watching the sunset. All in all, it was a long and good day.

Taking advantage of the sun!

Day 3, 11.4 miles, View Campground -> US 431 Trailhead

After a sleep interrupted every two hours by a train that was apparently right next to my tent, I was groggy and cold. I quickly packed up and ate a couple bites of trail mix. I needed to warm up and start walking.

Said train :/

After a few kilometers, my stomach reminded me that I did indeed need food to do this activity. I came across a small cave located between a stream. Good place to stop. I had my breakfast of champions and enjoyed the humid coolness that the cave provided.

The rest of the day was HOT. After adjusting to the winter weather, the 75 degrees and sun with little tree cover was wearing me down. I realized too late that I was burning and applied some sunscreen. I also discovered the best feeling in the world by dipping my Buff in a freezing stream and wearing it as a headband. You can really appreciate the little things when backpacking.

The miles and time flew by and suddenly I was at the pickup point. Duska’s son arrived shortly after I called her and took me back to my car. That strange feeling of re-entering civilization after being in the wild began to appear. I decided to return to the Pinhoti trail. Whether for hikes of more sections or for a full hike.

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