Waking up to the sound of wild turkeys in the desert is not something I had on my bingo card. It shows how little I really know about Arizona and its various native species of animals, reptiles and insects.
There have been several wildlife encounters in the AZT so far; Turkeys, Cows, Javelinas, Coyotes, Lizards, Gila Monsters, Cows, Birds, Deer, Horned Frogs, Rattlesnakes and Cows. Many cows.
The first rattlesnake I saw didn’t make a sound as I passed. Out of breath, I had just walked up a steep slope with my head down while digging in the dirt with my trekking poles and heard a crunch.
Out of the corner of my eye I saw the Snake’s head recoil in surprise. It was windy because I was right ahead of an approaching storm, so I don’t think I knew I was approaching.
Or it could have been that the big rattlesnake, not sure if it was a Mojave Rattler or a Diamondback, didn’t care that I was there. Either way, it was just out of the way and about a foot away from my left leg as it passed.
Did you know that rattlesnakes scream like a high-pitched smoke alarm at a frequency that only dogs and bats can hear when you approach them? No? Well, that could have been me as I quickly jumped onto the trail with a newfound sense of energy that would carry me for a couple more hours. I was excited to have seen my first rattlesnake here and hoped it would be my last, but Mother Nature said «No, uh.»
So far I have seen 6 snakes, 3 rattlesnakes and 3 smaller, less scary ones. The funny thing is that only one of the rattlesnakes made a noise when I passed by. Staying alert and focused while on the road is very important, it is not an easy thing for someone with ADHD. I just hope I never step on one of those killer spaghetti.
songs of the desert
I’m not just talking about the sounds of nature, but the ones I hum and breathe to the rhythm as I walk. I don’t know if anyone else does this, but there’s usually a loop of one or two verses of random songs that play in my head while I walk that help me regulate my breathing and keep a decent pace.
I’m «chasing» it so far and haven’t used my headphones to listen to music even once here. I don’t know why, but the trail, the sounds of nature, and the playlist in my head have been enough to keep me entertained.
Quoting Cousin Eddie from National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation.
Cousin Eddie: «Isn’t that something like that? She falls into a well, her eyes cross. A mule kicks her. They go back to normal. I don’t know.»
The thing is, things don’t make sense to me here. I crave structure and routine, that’s been constant, but I have trouble with silence, especially at night, but not here. I am accepting the sounds of things as they are, including the howls and howls of Coyotes waking up at 2am.
Different bird friends have different songs. Some are beautiful and some sound like they are dying in the bathroom after eating Taco Bell like I did in Vail, AZ.
It’s been diverse on every sky island I’ve crossed so far. There are bird whistles that sound like they’re herding cattle, and I swear one was imitating the sound of my Garmin watch after it notified me that a turn was coming up on my route.
I find it fascinating to listen to them. Shit, does that mean I’m going to take up birdwatching now? I am sure that when I get home I will have a new “How to be a Millennial” guide in the mail.
“Tramilia”
So far I have had the pleasure of meeting many fellow hikers on the trail. Surprisingly, there has been an even mix of hikers from the US, abroad, and from up north. I can’t say enough about the positivity and kindness of everyone I’ve met so far, and for a tour that isn’t known for being a «social» tour, I’ve met someone new almost every day.
I was with a group before Patagonia that I got along with quickly. Nothing connects you like sharing afternoon shade, drinking from questionable water fountains, and a beer on the town that unites you with others who share the same passion. You get to see people surviving and thriving on very little, away from everyday society and in a raw and honest way and environment.
The names of the members of the trail’s first family have been withheld to protect the innocent, but we will stay in touch to share our updates as we progress.
Colossal Cave Mountain Park
The advance towards the colossal cave was intense from a meteorological perspective. There was rain, thunder/lightning, strong wind, and the remaining days of the heat wave.
I’ve been pretty spoiled on my previous adventures in Sawtooth’s in Idaho, so I’ve been getting used to the diverse climate here. In planning my day to find adequate shade during the day, adequate cover when it rains, and water sources, there has been a learning curve, but my confidence grows as I cover more miles.
Colossal Cave (yes, there is a real cave, but I didn’t go in) marks the first major checkpoint of my trip where I received my first resupply box and was able to load up on pizza and tacos in nearby Vail, AZ, where I got a zero.
I’m done with the first 100 miles and quickly approaching 200. There’s a lot of raw desert to explore and water sources are becoming scarcer, but the Rincon Mountains are beautiful.
Next: Desert Madness, Saguaro National Park, Mica Mountain, Sabino Canyon and Mount Lemmon.
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