The British discovered how to walk

Breathe deeply

I need you to open your mind. Just for a second, and I promise it won’t hurt.

Sometimes different is good. Sometimes different is better.

The back story

In 2015, I hiked a long section of the AT from Winding Stair Gap (mile 109) to Standing Bear Farm (mile 242). At least that was the original plan. Kate came to provide support. We planned to meet every few days at the resupply points, spend the night together, and then I would get back on the road while she did her thing with her camera and journal.

Unfortunately, I contracted a deadly virus when I arrived at the NOC. After a visit to the Urgent Care Center in Bryson City, I spent three days shivering and sweating in a cabin near Wesser. When my Z-Pack activated, I was several days late, which ruined Kate’s motel reservations.

So, I decided that after hiking to Fontana Dam, I would move on to Newfound Gap and then hike south back to Fontana. Then Kate would take me back to Newfound Gap and I would hike north again to finish off the Smokies.

The day I left Stecoah Gap on the way to Fontana changed everything. While climbing Jacob’s Ladder in a heavy rainstorm, I ran into an older hiker named Pokey-hontus who stopped me for a chat. When I told him my plan, he asked if he could accompany us to Newfound Gap because he had fallen behind his companions. I told her that if we saw her in Fontana, we would be happy to take her. She walked much slower than me, so I didn’t expect to see her again.

But Kate and I got our wires crossed and spent three frustrating hours trying to find each other in Fontana (no cell service or Garmin InReach). Just when Kate pulled up, there was Pokey-hontus, so he got in the back seat and off we went.

On the two-hour drive to Newfound Gap, Pokey-hontus told us his story: This was his third AT hike, he was in his 60s. Kate was shocked and said she would never be able to do just one hike, let alone three of them. I added that I thought she could hike, but had little interest in camping, especially in the rain and snow.

«Well, then,» Pokey-hontus said, «you should consider hiking from inn to inn in Europe. There, you walk all day, ending up at a quaint inn or bed and breakfast where you get a private room, a hot shower, a clean bed, and a hot breakfast in the morning before you leave. And, if you want, they’ll deliver your luggage to the next location so you don’t have to carry it yourself.»

Kate looked at me suspiciously. I knew she was thinking, «Why haven’t you told me this before?» I assured him that this was all new to me too. Then I asked him if he wanted to do that kind of hike.

What is it not to love?

That autumn, we walked the Northumbria Coast Path and Hadrian’s Wall trails in the north of England. We both loved it.

Ancient castles, bridges built by King James in the 17th century, relics of structures built by the Roman Empire, Lindisfarne (Holy Island… where the first Vikings invaded England), walled cities, pastures full of sheep (and working sheepdogs!) and miles of empty beaches.

One of our B&Bs was built in the 16th century from blocks cut by the Romans for their wall. Another saw a fight on Saturday night between some of its Roma residents. They all offered something called a “full English breakfast”, which is the British equivalent of a free-range rambler’s meal, but with tea, baked beans and black pudding.

Plus, I got to walk with Kate all day.

We were hooked.

Wait a second, what’s up with BACKPACKING?

Yes, yes… The Trek is a place for backpackers. But I told you to open your mind just for a second, remember? Let me explain:

First, Zach Davis gave me the official go-ahead to blog about this hike.

Second, if you followed my AT hike, you’ll remember that I lived in our van and only backpacked for a few weeks (from Fontana to Standing Bear, the Whites, and parts of Maine).

Third, I carry a backpack. And it’s probably heavier than most ultralight backpacks.

Fourth, not everyone can backpack. And that’s how they do it in Britain. Let’s try to be a little more inclusive, eh?

Fifth, I love backpacking. I have hiked many trails with a backpack. But I love Kate more. And you should too.

Can you backpack the Welsh Coast Path?

Of course. But most people don’t. For good reasons.

One, because it is not necessary. Options and alternatives abound. Two, because there is almost no public land, which means setting up a tent is almost always trespassing. Bonfires and catholes are also frowned upon. But some people do backpack and camp on British trails, but it’s a lot harder than in America.

Hmmm, I’m not convinced.

If I haven’t convinced you yet that walking in English from inn to inn is a legitimate walk, I invite you to follow me and discover more. If you do, you’ll be able to read some of Kate’s writing starting tomorrow. And maybe you’ll discover something different you’d like to try.

If not, there are plenty of great backpacking blogs you can follow this year on The Trek. Or you can criticize me in the comments section and continue reading every day just to feed your appetite for outrage. I think that’s the whole point of the Internet after all.

Either way, Kate and I will be here walking, discovering and blogging. We hope you will join us.

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