I woke up around 6:10 am, not because my alarm shot, but because my body knew it was time. The wind was howling, the temperature was around 40, cold enough to remind me that this adventure was real. My shorts and leg sleeves were still wet, which caused him to dress … less than exciting. Fortunately, I always wear a long -sleeved hiking shirt and a short sleeve. The long sleeve smelled «delicious», but it was dry, so I was going. As for my main hiking socks? I slept on them. I learned this when I was a hiking guide in the smoks, when you are in a humid (or simply humid) environment, the heat of the body is your best dryer. It is not glamorous, definitely smelly, but it works.
Once I got up, the rhythm of the morning was launched: take medications, apply the T «Blue Magic», prepare breakfast, organize the equipment, hit the bathroom, get water, pack and walk.
Out of camp and cold
I left the camp around 8:15 am, my body felt great. Painless. Not even fifteen minutes, I crossed roads with a grooleader and very complete packages. I threatened a little, to a valley valley and a photo shoot caught my attention.
Shortly after, I faced another river crossing. The word on the road was to go downstream and use the island in the middle as a cross point. Professional advice: do it. The crossing was not deep, but it was chilling. As, in the cold of the bones. Water that makes you want to scream and laugh, and cry at the same time.
A 10 -year superhuman
On the other side of the river, I met a 10 -year -old girl and her family in France who walked 24 kilometers (15 miles) yesterday, in the rain, on incomplete terrain, full package and everything. Absolute beast mode. He reminded me of the 22 -year -old who met day 1, who walked this path for the first time at age 14. Europeans, superhuman?
And then it hit me: I felt good. Very good. Yesterday, I was at the limit, which amazed a storm, doubting my steps, swearing on the path. Today? I was walking through the fog and the wind, and loving it. I was also talking to people!
Greens, waterfalls and gratitude
Finally, I found a cabin located in an explosion of vegetation. It’s not my stop, but I stop to admire my eyes. On day 1 he felt that Iceland was advancing us. On day 2 he said: «Oh, do you think it was difficult? Good luck.» Day 3? On day 3 he said: «Welcome to Iceland. Stay time.»
While passing by a waterfall that fell on the volcanic rock, something changed. I started Beatboxing (bad), freestyle (even worse) and singing every cheerful song that occurred to me. «Hakuna Matata», «The lion sleeps tonight», «Siyahamba». I was on fire. Not musically, but spiritually.
Truth on the road
Somewhere in the middle of my musical paths, beatboxing, singing, totally in the area, the success of clarity. The night before, he had been seeing a program where a couple argued, and a line stayed with me: «You have to feel good about yourself to leave space for others.» That landed hard.
I started thinking about my relationship at home, and my failed marriage. I didn’t have enough of the things that made me happy: walking, traveling, movement. Some of that was circumstantial. Some of that was me. As my mother used to say «If there is a will, there is a way.» But I have often renounced that will and, in doing so, I lost my course.
This walk shows me what ignites me. It also shows me that I have to take responsibility for how I have appeared, or not appear. I need to do better for all relationships in my life.
And here is the wild part: at this time, I am really happy. I am open. People are talking to me and I’m talking. Yesterday, they loved me: Angry on the path, angry at everything. I thought I wanted to be alone and the obligatory universe. Today? I am present and the world is responding. That says a lot.
My trust is proven
Not long after the last section of the path, I reached another river crossing, this is deeper, medium and with a much stronger current. It was here that my dear homemade sneakers found themselves with their end. Between the rocky background, the thrust of the water and my amateur seams, they had no chance. While they lasted, they were incredible. Scrap Slipper 2.0 will be born when I get home.
A little lower, I met two American women who kindly offered to take my photo. I doubted a fraction of a second, then I delivered my DSLR. As soon as I did, I felt a wave of repentance. The woman who held it was visibly trembling and retired to the edge of a railing, with a furious river underneath. I was frozen, praying in silence that my camera did not take flight.
For my relief, she didn’t drop it. He even received a great opportunity, although he was not excited about how he saw me (classic). Even so, he reminded me: sometimes, you just have to trust people, even when each part of you wants to recover the camera, but I was all inside!
This path continues to push me large and small. Whether it is rivers of crosses or failed field shoes, there is a lesson in each curve.
The black beach
After the crossing of the river adrenaline, I continued in what I have been calling the «black sand beach.» Despite the name, it is not a beach, more like a vast lava field covered with thick black sand. Walking through him was slow and heavy, however, the landscape was from another world. On both sides, the high green and black mountains stopped like the old guardians, while the small white flowers stained the ground like stars against the dark earth.
In a short time, I found a quiet place for lunch, with a view to a mountain that I will never forget, although I could not tell you his name. While ate, I started a conversation with a couple of Scotland. We change stories of trails and share future dreams of hiking.
Shortly after they continued, the two women I met before appeared. One laughed: «Look that, the only rock here, where a girl can urinate!» I chatted with her friend while she took advantage of him, and that was when they knew they were from Pennsylvania, walking along this path as an objective of the desire list.
Moments like these are the ones that make the Laugavegur path unforgettable. A minute you are surrounded by silence and sand, and the next one, you laugh with strangers on the only bathing rock per miles. If it remains open, the connection finds it, well when you need it most.
The longest mile
The final stretch of the path felt endless, not because it was steep or difficult, but because it was open and flat. The same distant mountains remained in view of what seemed like an eternity, never seemed to approach. With the landscape just changing, the miles crawled.
That’s when it hit me. I started to stumble, not fall, just dragging my feet. My lips concrete. My blurred vision. Classic low blood sugar. As a diabetic, I know these signs well. Interestingly, I had not experienced this at all during training, but it made sense. It was on the 4th day of consecutive days of high mileage. My metabolism was increasing, and finally caught me.
Fortunately, I was prepared. I made a couple of Dum-Dums (yes, the lollipops), and in a matter of minutes, I began to recover.
Tent problems
At 2:30 pm, I arrived at the camp and I saw family faces: Katya and Todd from day 1. They stirred me, and I felt really excited to be social for the first time along the way. I told them that I would return after configuring my store.
My new high -end tent had a broken post in two places. I put on a spiral in the full WTF mode. I have used an economic tent (Lanshan 2) for three years without a single problem. I used it as a guide, I used it in Yellowstone, Pisgah National Forest, Big South Fork Recreation Area, and the list continues. This? Day 3 (day 4) and burst.
Fortunately, the path of the path appeared. The group of English students with whom he had made friends before had a store post coupler. With that, in addition to the last of my emergency adhesive tape and a piece of my escarpa shoe, I had the standing store during one more night.
Tomorrow and the next day they would be another problem. But for now? It’s time to be social!
Todd, Katya and the healing walk
Todd and Katya were my angel traces on this day. I made a brief walk with them; They are the Canadian couple that I met on day 1. We laugh, we take silly and beautiful photos, and we talk like old friends. It was exactly what I needed to restart. We realized that at this time on our walk, we would have to say goodbye to each other. I gave them my contact information and hugged them hard. Both had touched me deeply. I remembered what it really is about hokeking. Not the team. Not even miles. It is people and memories.
The photos will be part of the story. This blog will say a little more. But the true story? That is mine. Mine to carry, mine to grow.
Life lessons
When Twilight settled, I returned to the crest to find a cellular service pocket and call my girlfriend. I needed his help to reserve a place to stay on Friday night, because let’s be honest, my store was officially roasted. I will deal with the manufacturer when I return to the United States. But for now, staying dry and warm had priority. Fortunately, she arrived with an Airbnb for $ 108, organized by a chef … and a cat. Unexpected, but perfect.
Surprisingly, the store’s failure ended up opening the door to something new: a change in perspective. Instead of a spiral, I began to consider alternatives. Maybe I stayed in a cabin tomorrow night. Why not? Until now, this trip has been full of the unexpected. And honestly, everything has been magical. So why stop saying yes now?
Looking back, yesterday was hard. I was frustrated, soaked and emotionally spent. In contrast, today brought laughter, connection and clarity. He reminded me that difficult days do not last forever. Today was joy. Today was healing.
Somewhere on the road, I decided to change the name of the path. It is no longer just the LT. It is the Lit, the Laugavegur Islandia Trail, because this place is really illuminated in all the senses of the word.
Now, while I drink hot tea and roll up the night with a podcast, I feel something that I have not felt in a long time: completely alive.
Tomorrow brings another path and more adventure. But tonight, I’m going to bed with gratitude, because sometimes, the moments when things fall apart are exactly when magic is going through.
