The Magic is Real: My First Week on the Appalachian Trail

This is not an illusion.

I woke up on a cloud. I knew that eventually the cloud would lift as I descended Springer Mountain. But for the moment, I enjoyed the cold water vapors surrounding me. And as I took my first steps on the Appalachian Trail, I reflected on how to live each day in this magical wonderland. I thought about what magic really is.

When I was a child I believed in magic. Not what magicians do; I knew it was fake. It’s not difficult to see. You just have to look. For example, when a mother kisses her child’s scraped knee and actually feels better, that is magical. Or when you hear the right song at the right time and it’s exactly what you needed… magic. Magic is very real and very powerful. It has the ability to affect you in a deep and meaningful way. It creates and strengthens connections and really makes the world much more interesting and fun.

Who is she???

The cloud over the mountain lifted as I flew past many hikers. Rumors of pulled pork in an upcoming gap swirled around me as I wandered through the leafless trees. At the supposed magical gap, there didn’t seem to be much to do except a few hikers setting up camp. Suddenly, several hikers told me to wait because “she” was about to arrive. I didn’t know who “she” was, but I figured it had something to do with the pulled pork, so naturally I took off my backpack and sat down.

Less than five minutes later, a white van with all kinds of crazy stickers and decals pulled up right in front of me and parked. I didn’t see who was driving, but someone said, «There it is.» Who is this pulled pork lady? The hikers began to whisper and point at the van. Then someone said his name. “She” is Miss Janet.

The angel of the path

For those who don’t know, Miss Janet is the angel of the runway. When you look up angel trail in Webster’s Dictionary, there are literally no words, just a picture of Miss Janet. I’ve been hearing stories about her for 10 years. I showed up, stuck my head in his window and became a complete fanatic, chattering wildly. They say you should never meet your heroes. Miss Janet is the exception. I knew I would probably find her at some point on this walk. I didn’t realize it would be the first day.

There were pork nachos, brownies, and some sort of gourmet rice crispy treats that tasted like a dream. I drank more iced coffee than I should have and played music. I set up my tent and watched Survivor. The first day was a good day.

Pork hangover

I woke up hungover, not from the alcohol, but from the pork and coffee, I guess. I still managed to leave the campground at dawn, determined to make it to Mountain Crossing, 16 miles away, before they closed to receive the mail my mother sent me. Slowly but strong, I kept going as the sun began to rise over the mountains. As I watched the colors change step by step, I still wondered how I was going to manage to climb Blood Mountain later that day. At this point, it seemed very far away, with smaller mountains yet to be conquered.

As I approached the next crossroads, the wind started to pick up a little, and as I crossed the street, a woman asked me if I wanted hot coffee. The kind people at a local church were preparing breakfast for the hikers. Hot coffee, two sausage and cheese bagel sandwiches, and good conversation rejuvenated me. I easily flew over Blood Mountain, arriving at the Mountain Crossing store in time to get my mail and hang out with all the hikers for over three hours before walking another four miles to camp, still feeling great if I wasn’t ready for bed. Excited for what I hoped would be an amazing sunrise in the morning.

Nature magic

The sunrise was spectacular, truly the best I have ever seen in my life. Some of the best magic comes from nature itself. On days like this, I like to have a quiet morning and just enjoy being present. So I left camp late and arrived at the next road junction, where there was great magic on the trails. With a full resupply in my backpack and a late start, I didn’t really want to stay long, although they tried to get me to stay for breakfast.

I saw that they were cutting up some fresh fruits and vegetables and told them that was exactly what my body was craving. So they let me take four ziplocks full of berries, cucumbers and peas. I also had a banana and three oranges. I thanked them and continued down the trail, enjoying amazing fresh food for the rest of the day.

Last full day in Georgia

Georgia was a lot. He had already walked hundreds of miles over several weeks across the state. It started out pretty rough and slowly turned into something beautiful, then fantastic, and now magical. However, I was ready to say goodbye and really enjoy my last few miles in what turned out to be a crazy state to walk through. The real magic of my last few days in Georgia was the abundance of springs.

A veteran once told me, «You never get too old to walk. You only get old when you stop walking.» That thought has clung to me and I have carried it with me for the last ten thousand miles. If that’s true, then hiking is the fountain of youth. Now I am absolutely younger than ten years ago, when I started walking long distances. I’m definitely in better shape, but I think there’s something beyond the physicality of hiking in mountains all day, every day.

I think it has something to do with drinking the waters that the mountains feed through springs. I have drunk from many sources, but the waters here, coming from the oldest mountains in the world, are something special. I truly believe these are part of the greatest fountain of youth. I drink from them and feel young and even more alive as I cross the imaginary line from Georgia finally into the state I instantly fell in love with…North Carolina.

The Appalachian Trail: A Crown of Sonnets

2. Sunrise in Georgia

Thanks, Alabama, I have to move on.
Towards Georgia, where the thunder breaks loudly.
The days of sunshine and birdsong are long gone;
Hail falls as I watch the lightning pierce.

The snow covers all my vision.
The weather clears and I can see the sky.
Then he reminds me that Georgia will bite.
Blood drips onto the road from under my thigh.

I continue towards Springer Mountain,
Then down, showing how a hiker flies.
The Appalachians say they drink from the fountain,
Stay young and watch the best sunrise in Georgia.

I wish you could see Georgia through my eyes.
Georgia, I miss you, I can’t lie.

It was a climb to the border, and I continued up the beautiful mountain, destined to find the perfect campsite. North Carolina embraced me and took me to my first solitary camp on the Appalachian Trail, a nice spot hidden in a mountaintop rhododendron forest: White Oak Stamp. Needless to say, I slept wonderfully and woke up madly in love.

Tray day!

My first full day in North Carolina was a long day filled with incredible views and great hiking. I walked all day to get as close as possible to Winding Stair Gap so I could catch the first bus to Franklin, North Carolina, and my first stay in an AT hostel. This hike included an intense climb up Albert Mountain and past the 100 mile point. With six miles to go before the gap, I set up camp and went to sleep dreaming of the city’s food.

I got up early and left the camp in the dark. I arrived at the ferry stop in plenty of time. I was greeted by some friends from the first day and it felt a bit like a reunion. The ferry dropped me off at The Gove Hostel, which is run by former hikers, and had a very warm, homely feel. My priorities were to shower and go get food. I walked to Walmart to restock for the next leg when I noticed a Chinese buffet restaurant. Naturally, I ate about $100 worth of food there. It was very cheap and really good. The errors were 10 out of 10.

Somehow I managed to get all my chores done and still have a little time to play music for the hikers. There was a guitar and I sang a set for everyone. That night I went to sleep with the promise of unlimited pancakes at the Baptist church in the morning. So when I say my first week on the Appalachian Trail was magical, I mean it literally. I get to experience the kind of magic that most people don’t even know exists. That’s a good feeling.

March in numbers

Total trail miles: 404 + 16 (approach trail yo-yo)

Total miles of Appalachian Trail: 104

Trails traveled on a continuous trail: 3 (Pinhoti, Benton MacKaye, Appalachia)

Cities visited: 4 (Cave Spring, Dalton, Chatsworth, Blue Ridge)

Total number of dog bites: 1 (zero infections)

Pounds of peanut butter consumed: 11

States entered: 3 (Alabama, Georgia, North Carolina)