Sunday, August 24, 2025
From Pyramid Creek to Paradise River
Even in the cool of this tree-covered Pyramid Creek campground, last night was the warmest yet. In all my solo hikes, I still feel uncomfortable sleeping alone without the rain fly. Keeping the fly on created a warm tent, but eventually the temperatures dropped enough to allow me to snuggle inside my quilt.
On this particular morning, excitement serves as an alarm clock and leads me to pack my bags faster than normal. My husband will meet me at Longmire and walk with me to Paradise River. I’m excited to see it, pick up my food stash, and eat a hot meal at the hostel. Today is a city day!
A misty Mount Rainier seen from the Kautz Creek crossing.
Kautz Creek
The only potential obstacle in the morning is the Kautz Creek crossing which I face less than a mile into my hike. During the atmospheric river a little over a week ago, the bridge over the creek was washed away. The rangers warned me to plan for a difficult water crossing. My original plan was to walk with my dinner companions last night and tackle the crossing together. But just yesterday they received information from some hikers passing by that a new bridge was in its place.
What a great relief! The large group of college students I met at the Mowich Lake campground said some of them were in water up to mid-thigh. As a 5’0″ hiker, it would probably be even taller for me. I resolve to myself that if the bridge is not present, I will wait for other hikers to arrive.
A simple but functional bridge.
Fortunately, a single log serves as a bridge over the Kautz Creek. I cross quickly and my feet remain pleasantly dry. Once across, a series of clearly new and carefully placed cairns take me across the river bed. Obviously, the trail must change direction here frequently, as it did this week.
As I make my way along the sandy river bed, I notice movement on a nearby rock. I look up and see a pika crouched on the rock, fluffing its fur for warmth. Pikas are one of my favorite animals and I love the way they sit, round and puffy.
So fluffy and round!
After the riverbed, I face my only climb of the morning.
However, being the only climb doesn’t make it any easier.
Gaining 250 feet in 0.3 miles, the grade is unforgiving but short. Halfway up, I take one last look at Kautz Creek and the mountain in the hazy morning light.
Mount Rainier over Kautz Creek. Every angle of this mountain looks so different.
Once over Rampart Ridge, the descent feels easy and well graded. Less than 2 miles from Longmire, I begin to encounter hikers and trail runners. The trail widens noticeably the closer I get to the trailhead, probably to accommodate a larger number of people so close to the visitor center.
Spacious, well maintained and well leveled. What is it not to love?
Less than a mile from the trailhead, I notice an interesting marker on my FarOut map: «huge tree.” The trail winds through a particularly large grove of old trees. I’m not sure which tree it is that is marked «Huge Tree,» but several majestic examples surround the trail.
This one is so big it didn’t fit in the photo frame!
I arrive at Longmire before 9:00 a.m. The Nature Information Center, where hikers pick up their food supplies, has closed for a few minutes. While I wait, I sit on the porch and enjoy the WiFi. I was afraid to return to the world of the Internet, but my husband sent me a photo of a cat every day. I don’t want to miss the nice attack waiting for me on my phone.
Once they open, I gather up my food stash and find a picnic table outside to begin the sorting process. In addition to 3.5 days of food, I packed clean underwear, clean socks, and some special treats to enjoy upon opening.
Well, that’s not how you spell my name, but nice try. Ironically, my name is spelled correctly on the large sign I printed on the side of the cube.
Past me really was kind to me future.
Reunited!
Shortly after opening the cube, I see someone walking towards me from the other side of the building. My husband, Alex, has arrived! Tonight you will walk with me to Paradise River Campground and then return to Longmire in the morning. I really enjoyed my week of solo hiking, but today I’m ready for some company.
Once the meal is organized and clean socks replace the dirty socks in my backpack, we head to the National Park Inn in Longmire for breakfast. The food is mediocre and expensive, but it’s still worth it to get a hot meal. In addition, the hostel has toilets and a sink. I spend an absurd amount of time washing my hands with soap.
Next stop: Alex’s truck. He has towels, water and soap so I can clean myself. I haven’t had access to a lake since Golden Lakes on day 4, so I desperately need it. He also brought me several items that I needed to change or replace: a different CNOC Vecto, since my VectoX had a hole in it; a clean Kula cloth (7 days seems to be the limit, even with rinsing); and the backwash syringe for the Sawyer water filter.
Although Longmire is certainly not a typical city stop, I still feel pretty productive.
At 12:30 everything is packed and ready. We began walking under the blazing sun, heading away from Longmire towards the Paradise River campground. The trail is still wide, wide enough for us to walk side by side. The 3.5 miles to the campground are a climb, but fortunately, it starts off gradually.
The trail crosses or skirts the main park roads for a couple of miles. On this busy Sunday, groups often fill the trail. As we cross the Nisqually River on a long log bridge, we share it with families out for a Sunday walk.
I didn’t even get to take a photo alone, but the mountain steals the show anyway. Taken on the Nisqually River. Photo credit Alex Baldini.
We followed the Paradise River upstream long before reaching the Paradise River Camp. Along the way we passed a decommissioned wooden pipeline, or penstock, a remnant of the old hydroelectric system from the 1920s.
your old pipe
We also pass two waterfalls, Carter Falls and Madcap Falls, and stop briefly to enjoy their refreshing spray.
Alex and I in Carter Falls (or Madcap Falls, I don’t remember!). Photo credit Alex Baldini
The heat remains relentless today. Fortunately, the trail remains between the trees, offering a respite from the worst. Still, we were relieved when we reached the sign for Paradise River Campground.
Unfortunately, the rise continues.
The trail from the turnoff goes straight uphill, on a new, rough trail littered with sprained ankle roots. Climb what seems like an excessive amount before we encounter the bear pole. And then it goes up further before the detour towards Camping No. 1.
I know this campground has 3 total sites, plus a group site, but I can see the trail continuing to climb steeply. I can’t even see the next campsite. We decided to stay at campsite #1.
Before settling in we rested a little. I lie back on my Z-folding platform while Alex sets up his camp chair, letting our heart rate slow and the temperature cool. The campground is densely wooded, which contributes to a cooler, if slightly humid, atmosphere.
As we sit, I notice that this campground overall feels different than the others. It’s only a few years old and was moved from an old campsite about 0.2 up the trail. The excavated edges of the camps appear sharper and the camp itself appears less established. Honestly, it lacks the history and soul that the other campsites had. I’m not sure why, but it gives me chills. Something about it seems creepy. Of all the nights I can’t camp alone, I’m so glad it’s tonight.
Camping Río Paraíso #1
Paradise River
We headed down the long climb out of camp and up the trail shortly to the Paradise River for water. The river is big enough for me to soak in, so I can completely rinse off all the sweat from today. We spent time washing the water filter and enjoying the cool, clear stream before making our way back to camp.
The evening is a lovely evening of stories from last week about Alex’s oversized ramen bomb that we are having a hard time finishing. No other campers arrive at camp until after 7:30 p.m., and even then only one group. I was wondering about this campground, just 3.5 miles from Longmire. If it turns out to be the last campsite of someone’s trip, I imagine many people would avoid it entirely, swayed by the prospect of hot food and a warm shower at home.
I manage to make my way to the toilet before going to bed. It is by far the furthest outhouse from all the other campsites I slept in, but that makes it much more private. I guess there’s always a silver lining!
We slept without the rain fly, still warm all night. Somehow, I walked through the final days of my trip to Wonderland, so lost in the magic that it flew by. I know there is still more magic to come and I feel so grateful to have shared today with Alex.
Daily statistics
Miles traveled: 7.5
Elevation gained/lost: 1800 feet gained/1450 feet lost
ranger earl: 6 total (1 today, but that was at a ranger station, so does it really count?)
Hot and mediocre restaurant meals: 1
waterfalls: 2+
people on the road:So many
Feel elevated on the detour trail to the campsite: Too many too
One of many waterfalls today, on the Paradise River.
