Up and down – The walk


If my algebra teacher, Mr. Dalhoff, put anything into my head, it was the transitive property. Applied to a hike on the AT, it would be something like the following.

The Appalachian Trail is the same as the Appalachian Mountains. The Appalachian Mountains are the same as mountains in general. Mountains mean abrupt changes in elevation. Elevation changes are equivalent to a lot of hiking up and down mountains. So the AT involves a lot of hiking up and down mountains.

The point is, it’s surprising when I hear hikers comment about going up and down all day. I’m not saying you won’t see me cursing at whoever put up the AT or sometimes on the mountain, but it’s what I signed up for.

If climbing the Georgia mountains is an all-out frontal assault, once you get past Albert Mountain in southern North Carolina, at mile marker 100, there’s a 35-mile stretch where the climbs feel more like sneak attacks. There are more curves and the slope is gentler. Sometimes you turn a corner and are surprised that you have reached the top of a mountain.

First city of trails

Franklin, North Carolina was the first trail town I visited. In mid-March, the weather became quite unpleasant and the wind chill on the way through the mountains was bordering on dangerous. So, I chose to play it safe and take refuge in Franklin. A trail town of approximately 4,500 residents.

Franklin AT Backpacking Banner at the Outdoor 76 Store

I decided to stay at The Grove for my first night in Franklin. The Grove is a great hostel. Mainly because Bluebs and Willow, the owners, treat everyone like family. I was 1 of 8 sleeping in a bunk room. The bed was comfortable and the shower felt great after a few days on the trail.

I survived my first ‘rookie mistake’. I left my Ursack bear bag lying in the backpack room at The Grove. It had rained lightly the night before I arrived and the wet Ursack was wet and heavy.

When I left The Grove, I couldn’t fit the Ursack into my backpack. The next day, I realized my mistake and contacted Grove. They located him after I left town. In a display of incredible customer service, Bluebs delivered the Ursack to the Nantahala Outddo Center.

One last note on Franklin, many retirees live there and help transport hikers from trailhead to trailhead and/or into town for free and cheaply. I was a recipient of this support network when Macon County Transit’s free shuttle dropped me off at Rock Gap. I walked about 4 miles to Winding Stair Gap. He arrived an hour before the free shuttle was scheduled to pick him up. After a 5 minute wait, on a cold and windy day, Bald Eagle’ pulled up in his truck and offered my partner Pabst and me a ride to Franklin. I offered money for gas, but Bald Eagle laughed and refused to accept anything for his services.

A tragedy?

Over the last week, I put in some miles and stayed in the same shelters as some hikers. There is nothing coordinated, but a family of loose trails (i.e. More info: QiMSk2j. a tram) is forming naturally.

Here are some notes on hikers who are making the trip easier.

‘Get to Steppin’ and ‘Fred Flinstone’ or the Bourbon Brothers, are a young and entertaining duo. We’ve climbed some mountains together. They both have a wicked sense of humor, a vast knowledge of music, and an overall great attitude.

‘Get to Steppin’ lives in Florida and has worked teaching speaking to non-verbal students. He plays lead guitar in a rock band that specializes in live instrumental performances. ‘Freddie Flinstone’ lives in Denmark and is an architect who will be returning to school in Denmark in August to complete his master’s degree. Time and miles fly when you walk with these two. The jokes never stop.

Dutch, was the third Brother Bourbon for a while. Dutch was a retiree who chose not to participate in the NOC. Dutch, we will miss you, but we all understand your decision to return to South Carolina.

‘Pabst’ is a 20-year-old Buckeye from central Ohio. He works at a resort in the Grand Tetons when he’s not hiking or attending school in Virginia. He sets a very good pace and we have enough common ground to have a conversation.

What’s next?

From Franklin, North Carolina, I will proceed north through the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC) and then to Fontana Dam. After Fontana, I’ll spend a week in the Smokey Mountains.

Overall, my body feels great. It probably helped that I trained in the high altitude of Colorado. But the rises and falls will intensify over the next few weeks as I travel through North Carolina and Tennessee.

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