Chasing sun, heat and difficult terrain as we train for the JMT

With my JMT hike 4 months away, I knew I needed a “shake up” opportunity at the beginning of the season to get back into the backpacking mindset. I spent the entire summer of 2025 traveling around Europe, enjoying the luxuries of their cabin-to-cabin systems in places like Norway, Albania, Montenegro, and northern Italy, and I was spoiled.

Now I was in California for the winter, with a bunch of gear I hadn’t used in a long time and an official permit that said I would be riding the JMT in 4 months. Oh. So, I turned to an old friend of PCT and JMT training hikers: the Trans-Catalina Trail on Catalina Island.

The Trans-Catalina Trail (TCT as I’ll call it) is a 38 mile (give or take) hike on Catalina Island, off the coast of California. A ferry is required to reach the island, and there are two main places where you can start your hike: Two Harbors and Avalon (with Avalon being the «classic» starting place). The TCT traverses the island, taking you up and down ridges where you’ll catch incredible views of the Pacific Ocean and the California coast, while allowing you to walk among rare and important plants, flowers, and animals along the way.

There are three main reasons why the TCT is a great early season training opportunity for hikers preparing for upcoming hikes:

Because of its length and popularity, the TCT packs a punch in terms of terrain. Hikers will experience sudden elevation changes without the aid of switchbacks, rocky terrain with steep drop-offs, and partially unmaintained sections that will make you question whether you are lost or not. For better or worse, it will make any hiker re-adopt that “backpacker” mentality we often lose in the off-season.

I found that this hike can be adjusted to fit whatever type of distance goal you have at the beginning of the season. For example, much of my research highlighted backpackers who took 4 days, sometimes a little longer, to enjoy the hike and each of the campsites. However, I also passed a group of women who were clearly training for something else and who were planning to cover about 20 miles (almost the entire hike) on their second day. The flexibility of the hike allows for many different options.

• A winter walk without snow.

One of the biggest strengths of the TCT is that the best time to increase it is from January to April and then again in the fall. These are the dreaded “shoulder season” times, when it’s incredibly difficult to find a place to ride longer distances, making it a perfect training opportunity.

My itinerary

When planning this trip, I knew I wanted to push myself on the distance, how I handled the heat and sun, and some gear choices I needed to make. With this in mind I chose to do the TCT in 3 days and 2 nights. However, due to the additional logistics of getting to the island, I technically arrived there the day before and enjoyed a day of sightseeing to boot.

*Note: For many hikers, their first day of hiking will actually begin with a trip to Long Beach (insert snide comment about California traffic), a 1-1.5 hour long ferry, and then a short hike to the trailhead.

Day 0-1: Hermit Gulch-Black Jack Campground (10.25 miles)

After spending half a day enjoying Avalon and spending the night at Hermit Gulch Campground, located at the TCT trailhead, I began my 3-day hike in a classic California marine cape but with the promise of unseasonably warm weather.

Unless they are lucky enough to enjoy the first peaks of the water during their immediate ascent on this day, hikers may find this first section of the trail a bit…right? The trail immediately makes you work with a long first climb and moderate views, before leading you inland towards the heart of the island. In the following kilometers the trail intersects with dirt roads and construction work. However, the multiple public restrooms (toilet style) and water systems help make the hike not seem so bad.

The final push of the day comes from a climb where switchbacks are forgotten and views are few as hikers reach Black Jack Camp. This campground is very open and exposed, with only a few sites enjoying privacy and shade. However, there are bathrooms and plenty of water at the campsite, which makes it worth it. This first day will test your courage and make tomorrow’s views even more special.

Day 2: Black Jack Campground to Two Harbors (14.5 miles)

Today’s views are everything you were waiting for, so soak it in and enjoy every second. The hike begins by leaving Black Jack camp to an almost immediate viewpoint that covers much of the day’s hike. Rolling hills and distant blue water promise an incredible hike. Today also includes stopping by the island’s small airport, which has a bathroom and restaurant for those who need some resources along the way.

After passing the airport and a welcome rest spot located right next to the Buffalo Springs Reservoirs, the trail takes you along one of the first large «ridge» sections where you can look out toward the Little Harbor campground and the perfect spot for lunch. It ended up being very windy on the days I was hiking, which reminded me of my Patagonia hike and brought a little more challenge than I expected. However, the 360° views of the island and ocean were worth it.

I spent lunch in Little Harbor, enjoying an empty campsite and the sound of waves on the beach. Hikers be warned, however, because the next section will take a lot out of you! The moment you leave camp, the trail begins to ascend, taking you toward another spectacular hike and view over the ridge. While offering views of distant cliffs and islands, the trail will take you on 2 or 3 intense climbs, again with no switchbacks, where the hiker can practice climbing and save energy. There is one more outstanding rest stop and view before the hike begins its descent to Two Harbors.

This small town along the coast features a grocery store, restaurants, and a public bathroom, in addition to the Two Harbors Campground. My camp was amazing! Located away from the park entrance which meant a lot more privacy with a stunning view of the water. I was very pleased with the campsite and enjoyed the luxury of once again having running water and a toilet at my campsite.

Day 3: Slackpack to Parson’s Landing and end at Two Harbors (14.5)

Yes, I admit it, this last day I lazily packed my suitcase, so I felt a little guilty. However, after completing the entire loop, I was glad I made the decision while also completing the entire 38 miles.

The day before I had rented a locker at the campground where I quickly packed my sleeping bag and extra layers before beginning the hike. My ferry left at 4:45 pm that day and I wanted enough time to enjoy a snack at the local restaurant before leaving that day.

*It should be noted that many hikers choose to simply do the out-and-back portion of this hike rather than the “loop” as shown on the “classic” TCT map. I chose to stick with the official circuit, however I definitely understand why many choose to just do the main out and back circuit. The circular path is No It was well maintained and at times strangely difficult, if not dangerous (I fell twice while descending toward Parson’s Landing). I encourage hikers to check the details on both trails before deciding how they want to finish the hike.

This loop takes the hiker away from Two Harbors to tour the end of the island before returning to town on a final 7-mile stretch of dirt road. Within the first mile, after passing many buildings, a daunting climb challenges the hiker. The trail is an old dirt road with no set curves and minimal views. It is truly one of those sections that has much less to do with the trail and more to do with the mental toughness of the hiker. But, if one keeps pushing, an incredible view awaits that will possibly eclipse the views of Day 2.

As you climb up and down, enjoying the views, save some energy for the toughest section of the entire trail that comes next: the descent to Parson’s Landing. Sharp and rocky descents without pauses or curves to guide the walker. I fell several times, hard, while trying to find my balance in such difficult conditions. Finally, after a long time on the descent, I arrived at the Parson’s Landing campground.

This campsite is very popular for its location right on the beach and its very small size. It really was a lovely place, with craggy rocks along the edges jutting out into the water. After finishing my lunch, I began the slow, boring walk back to Two Harbors using the dirt road that connects the two. Fortunately, although the path is dull and exposed, the constant view of the sea to the hiker’s left helps maintain attention.

The moment I got back into town, I bought a Ramen Bowl and a beer at Two Harbor’s General Store and sat on the beach, watching the waves and soaking up the last of the sun until my ferry arrived.

Lessons about TCT

There were several things I learned while touring the TCT:

1. Animal Exhibit: I walked past a herd of bison on day 1 and they were just as stressful as I had read. It forced me to go a little off trail and was a good reminder to have a plan and be prepared when encountering wildlife.
2. Heat and sun: I do No I walked well in the heat, and this was one of the main reasons I came to California to train in the winter months. I knew I had to build a tolerance and improve my hydration plan.
3. Terrain and Mental Strength: As my first backpacking trip of the season, this hike was challenging enough to wake me up and remind me of the mental preparation it takes, especially when going alone.
4. Build Confidence: At the end of the day, I was so proud of myself for making it through this in 3 days. It continued to build my confidence and got me excited about JMT. It is very satisfying to complete the first backpacking trip of the season and I look forward to my other upcoming trips.

All in all, the TCT was a really fantastic early season ride for me as I train for the JMT. Highs and lows, challenges and positives, this hike should be on your list if you are looking for a beautiful and challenging way to start your hiking season.

Until next time,

Ann!