Via Francigena VF – Lucca to San Gimignano

Training program begins

When I ventured to walk the Via Francigena (VF) in Italy, I was a bit facetious when I called it a training program for the CDT. Now that I’ve walked over 60 miles, I take it back. The hills are alive in Tuscany. There is a lot more elevation than I expected!

Lucca to Altopascio

Starting in Lucca gave me an easy, fairly flat, 16+ mile outing. The scenery was pretty, but it was mostly just walking along the road. I’m not a big fan of road trips! In fact, I’ll do my best to find access routes. But in Italy and on the Via Francigena it is what it is. At least through Lucca to Altopascio.

There were many more pilgrims than I expected. There are not many of us from the United States, but Italy, Ireland, England and Germany are well represented. Even hitting the trails in the US, it seems like Germans love trekking. They wear big leather boots, carry backpacks larger than life size, and know how to rack up the miles. And they always find the local bars. Good drinking buddies too.

Altopascio to Miniato

The big difference between walking a Camino compared to backpacking our long, distant trails is that you sleep in a bed every night, you have running water to shower and flush, and you eat amazing food! After leaving our B&B, my husband and I headed out and reconnected with the Camino. We were a little ways off the main corridor so bonus miles were earned. Today there was a lot of dirt, gravel and cobbles with a few bars and cafes along the way.

If I were to compare a Camino to a trail in the United States, I would have to go out on a limb and say that Appalachia is similar. Lots of socializing, great places to hang out, eat, drink and have fun. The VF has a lot to offer, but it has quaint towns along the way. It definitely has its fair share of ups and downs, as Italy is known for its hills. Not big peaks but a kind of “bald spots”. Here they call them banks.

The difference is the numerous cathedrals, stone churches and the bells that always ring from city to city. All the main squares or plazas have a central church. In fact, towns are built around Cathedrals. And almost all places of worship have people inside praying. It really feels very spiritual to walk from square to town and city. The people of Italy love the Lord!

Miniato to Gambassi Terme

This was one of my favorite days with lots of grunting, sweat and tears. I have earned the name “shortcut” because I am always trying to find a solution for some of the less than ideal paths. Today was infamous! I took off and found a more direct route that involved a horrendous climb. My husband was not happy with me as we plowed a grassy hill with vineyards and lots of blackberries. When we got back on the trail, we managed to lose an hour and gained 1000 feet of elevation in less than a mile. No more shortcuts!

However, the best part of the day was when we entered a stone church that was over 1000 years old. It had no less than 50 to 75 chiseled stairs to reach it, lined with poppies and other native flowers and shrubs. Once I entered, the Germans were singing like angels. The acoustics of this church older than Caesar were created to harmonize with the sky. I was mesmerized by the music of the German pilgrims. As I later discovered, they are a group made up of Christians, Lutherans and Methodists who walk together on pilgrimages every two years. What a blessing to hear them sing!

Gambassi Terme to SSN Gigianamo

After getting my ass kicked the last few days, I was ready for a quiet day. Liquid sunshine appeared which was welcome after the last few days of scorching sun and humidity. I had no idea humidity existed in Italy? I put on the umbrella and left. The road was wet, but nothing like the muddy path ahead. Remember the mud in Vermont? This was the same sticky, sticky mess where you think you’re going to lose your shoe. One thing I must mention is that pilgrims are a resilient bunch. I thought everyone would take a cab on a day like today, but we all put on our big girl pants and moved on!

The terrain was very similar to the past. Rolling hills of all shades of green with vineyards as far as the eye can see. Clouds covered much of the landscape but could not smother the beauty. What surprised me was that Italians really honor the Sabbath. There were no cafes or bars open along the way. Not until we reached San Gigianamo. This place is a Disneyland of old rural culture.

Each building is built of stones and plaster, some made of wood with red clay tiles. This hilltop town is full of tourists and pilgrims, all ready to spend their euros and eat the best-billed ice cream in the world. That’s what they say. I had to indulge and I will dare to say that it is, in fact, the richest, creamiest and best variety of flavors I have ever tasted on my lips! I will surely come back!

It’s been almost a week since I landed in Italy. I’ve been looking at the sights and it sounds a lot like a fire station. If I had to choose another place to be, there would be no other place. Italy is full of life, with warm people, great food and culture. The countryside is stunning and the descriptions of the Tuscan hills are spot on. It’s very different from other Caminos I’ve been on, but honestly, I think that’s how it’s supposed to be. It truly is a place where you can leave everything behind and walk towards the light. Arrivederci, for now.

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