What a perfect spring day it was today and what a sunset to end it.
After a “quiet sleep and a sweet dream,” as the poet Masefield says, I sat in the warm sunshine waiting for a bus. The bus company has a clever little online tracker, so I could see the little cartoon X75 making its way down the valley to my stop at Ponterwyd.
My plan today was to detour and travel to Aberystwyth, a town famous for its university, vibrant Welsh culture and the home of my first harpist.
The sea!
As we descended from the hills, we turned a corner and there was the sea, a brilliant bright blue sight, which could have been the Mediterranean. At Aberystwyth bus station I was immediately enveloped in a huge hug and a warm kiss. This was actually a Welsh “cwtch” (say it like Kutch). Although this is usually translated as a hug or a hug, it also has greater connotations of a safe embrace, a place of safety and affection… all of this happened. I met with E, a leading harpist, teacher and facilitator of all Welsh music.
I meet their dogs and then I meet their harps.
I had three dogs at home, all kind and friendly. It has at least 6 harps. We were too busy talking for me to take photos. Two of his harps are truly historic. One is 190 years old and has a clear, delicious sound.
This detail shows the name of the harp maker and the elaborate gilding. He played it for me, beginning with a piece of haunting beauty called Y gwynt yn dansio dros Llyn Teifi.
This means «The wind dancing over the ponds of Teifi.» These ponds are the source of the Teifi River, whose trail I will soon follow. Words cannot express how moving this music was. Reader, I cried with joy. What a privilege to sit on a sofa, with a dog lying at my feet, so close to a magnificent French harp made in Paris 130 years ago, played with immense delicacy and skill.
Talking about harp stories, sharing projects, we talked non-stop, sharing our experiences playing the harp. E was generous in her interest in my hike HHH. We talked about their own projects and then shared a delicious traditional Welsh dish from Cawl, a hearty lamb stew with vegetables. There was homemade cake and homemade plum jam. The hiker’s paradise.
Discovering two wells
I only expected an hour of E’s time and there had already been more. Then we got into his car and went to see two nearby holy wells.
In the church of Llandre we located this beautiful well. Famed in the past for being especially effective for rheumatism, in the 19th century trips were advertised to places as far away as London for people to come and try the water. The full name of the place is Llanfihangel Genau’r Glyn, abbreviated to Llandre for ease of use. The name indicates that it was dedicated to the Archangel Michael. Originally, the church was to be built about a mile away and dedicated to Saint Brigid. Construction began, but each morning the builders returned to find that the previous day’s work had collapsed. A strange voice in the wind told them to change the location and dedicate the church to Archangel Michael. That worked! It is next to a beautiful stream, on a hillside with ancient yew trees. One is supposed to be 2,000 years old. Yew trees were sacred in pre-Christian times, so it is likely that this was a spiritual site even before Christianity arrived.
The interior of the church was simple and calm with this modern stained glass window.
A very different well
After enjoying the peaceful surroundings and tranquility of Llandre Church, E quickly took me to a main road, busy with afternoon traffic. From the bus I saw a possible well. This was dedicated to Saint Padarn. He was a great saint of the 6th century, leader of a monastic community and traveler, who visited all the way to Rome (another excursion saint in the early church). Various stories are told about St Padarn. I like this one. Apparently, the legendary King Arthur (he of the round table no less) coveted the iconic robe worn by the saint. Arthur stamped his foot when he did not get his way in the matter, and Padarn called for the earth to swallow Arthur. Only when he asked for forgiveness was Arthur released.
The well now drips slowly and was already «cleaned» by the authorities in the 19th century. It has a slightly municipal look and the water is covered in striking green duckweed.
And he kindly dropped me off at my accommodation. I hope we meet again.
I walked along the boardwalk, enjoying the air, the waves, and the sunset.
A perfect end to a perfect day.
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