Via Francigena Bolsena to the Vatican-Rome

Well, after three weeks of hill climbing, rain, mud and humidity, my husband George and I arrived in Rome! What a trip it was and I’m so glad we did it our way!

Bolsena to Montefiascone

This is a perfect day. We started a new plan, getting up early to beat the heat. When we arrived in Bolsena yesterday, we were hot, we almost ran out of water and I think George was running out of water. It wasn’t pretty. So we needed to regroup.

Pharmacies are an institution in themselves. Vitamins I (also known as ibuprofen) can be purchased at Costco for pennies on the dollar. In Europe, it would seem like you are ordering cocaine! They will sell you 400 mg tablets, 12 maximum in a box. Actually, that will last George about three days. We’ll need a couple of boxes. 15 euros later was enough for less than a week.

Luckily, the day was short and we took our time. Today we had a path with wooded areas overlooking Lake Bolsena. It was a spectacular and fairly easy hike.

Montefiascone is, believe it or not, on the top of a hill. We entered through the pearly doors and began to climb to the nearest square. We saw the Café Centrale which had everything a pilgrim could want. Cappuccino, Macchiatos, Frizzante Water and Beer. Oh, and let’s not forget the Gelato. We had one of everything, literally! This hike through Europe is nothing like our long, distant hikes in the United States. These routes are full of numerous services, Bed & Breakfast or if you wish, you can stay in a Dormitory or Hostel. We’ve gone the comfortable route and have private rooms with private bathrooms every night. Nothing was shared. It’s the only way for my husband to come with me. So I will suffer and sleep for a while on satin sheets and feather pillows. Next month I will be returning to my Durston store with my footstool and quilt! And I’ll love that too.

Montefiascone to Viterbo

Our earliest start yet. We packed up and were out the door at 6:30am. The Baraga are on a roll. This morning was a very tough climb, but what else is new? But what really affected us was the relegation. The AT has nothing to do with the roads of Italy. You would think you were at a 5.7 pitch. If you’ve ever driven Priest Grade to Yosemite, imagine walking downhill both ways! It’s very steep around here.

Once we stopped crying in the morning, the rest of the day was easy. Nice flat, open land with wildflowers of all colors everywhere. It made it difficult to walk too far without stopping to take pictures.

The last few days, George has been complaining about black mold on his smart water bottle. It’s one thing. We just can’t seem to find any way to clean it up. Decathlon turns out to be close to the trail. They are the equivalent of REI in the states. Sure enough, they had one pipe cleaner left and we caught it. Along with some new rubber tips for my poles so they don’t click and rattle on the trail.

Now we headed to our overnight stay and all was well in our world, Viterbo. It was a large place with many ancient cities within the walls. Pretty spread out with tons of places to eat and drink.

Viterbo to Sutri and La Storta

Oh how I love Sutri. What an extraordinary place this is! We arrived a day before some kind of festival. There were many travelers and locals decorating the streets with flowers and street art! It is a wonderful experience to be there and live this moment.

Sutri is a very important stop on the way. The church, which is the cornerstone of all cities, was truly a resting place for many Popes, it is said, in the 13th and 14th centuries. It also served pilgrims for centuries when they arrived from England to Rome.

At the foot of the Sutri hill is one of the most important rock-cut necropolises in Tuscia. Entirely excavated into the tuff cliff, the necropolis witnesses the continuity of life and death along this important communication route; that linked Rome with central Italy. Today you can still see 64 tombs, dug directly into the rock and arranged on several levels. It really helps me understand what biblical scholars have written. Now I can see what these burial places were really like.

But La Storta. There is always a place along the way where you get something so unexpected. La Storta was a one-horse town and they had given us rooms to stay. So, on a whim, I booked a room on the outskirts of town.

As we walked toward our final destination, I was directed to pass the house that looked like the one I had reserved and continue down this steep gravel road. There were cars parked everywhere, which I thought was strange. As we approach, it appears to be a restaurant where a large party or wedding is being held. I don’t think we should be here because everyone, and I mean everyone, was watching us. They were all dressed in their finest threads and I showed up looking like I’d gone off the rails. Well, that’s true, but it’s not cool!

Did they ask us if we were hungry? Why, of course. Hiking hunger has arrived and there is no shortage of food that I can’t finish! And so the party began. It was the most traditional Italian dinner we have had since we started the Via Francigena.

There was antipasto with freshly made cheese, lasagna with white sauce that was out of this world, pickled vegetables that even George enjoyed, my favorite thing in the kitchen these days, yellow potatoes and homemade sausages. Then we top it off with espresso and tiramisu. As I said before, you don’t come to Italy to do a diet plan!

La Storta to Rome

Oh how bittersweet. We are in our final stretch of the VF. More than 200 miles and about three weeks, somehow, we will manage to see the Pope. It’s a perfect day. Blue birds singing, roosters crowing and cows mooing. Yes, we’re not in Kansas anymore!

The final leg to Rome is mostly on foot along the street, but being Sunday, the roads are empty since everyone was up late at the banquet last night.

After a few kilometers, we entered a series of natural reserves. There was still a little mud on the road, but we’re pros at this point. We dance through mud and dirt with ease, we climb hills in a single bound.

Before we knew it, we saw the sights of Rome. Wow, what a city! It’s much bigger than I imagined, with the Vatican being its own city. It’s a little overwhelming to say the least.

We followed the signs and once near the Vatican, we only needed to find the Pilgrims Office. We asked every military and police official we could find. No one seemed to know what or where we had to go. After searching for an hour, we found our answer. The lady in the yellow vest took our information, stamped our Pilgrim Passport and escorted us directly to the Cathedral.

Now that’s when I lost it. There is something so spiritual about entering this holy place that you just can’t control yourself. I was filled with awe and wonder as my eyes beheld the glory of this mighty and awe-inspiring sanctuary. One of my dearest friends told me that she felt the presence of the Lord in this place. She was absolutely right. There is something otherworldly about being in the middle of this creative place that has taken centuries to build and complete. We’re going on tour next week, but for today, I just wanted to let this sink in. Nobody says what or who did this or painted that. Just George and I standing in this church and knowing that this was my first glimpse of what heaven would be like. Holy, holy, holy is our Lord Almighty!

Three hundred miles later, George and I finished the Via Francigena. We had some great thoughts on this trail versus the France and Portugal route. I’ll just give my perspective since George’s is very different than mine. VF for me was spectacular. It had the physical challenges I want, with the ever-changing weather, from cool mornings to rainy afternoons and eventually hot, humid days. I could do without the humidity, but I love the weather. And the food. What’s not to like? You could eat fish, pasta, potatoes or vegetables. I think Italian potatoes are their own special food group! I loved the landscape. The hills of Tuscany, the endless vineyards, olive groves and the fertile farmlands of Luzia. They all had their own beauty. The churches were much more discreet, which I appreciated. Obviously except for the Basilica. We didn’t get to interact as much with the locals, which I’m sorry to say. That’s something I really enjoyed in Portugal. But overall, I loved this route and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a more challenging Camino and doesn’t mind kicking hills on a daily basis.

So I’m trying to end this. I have hiked the PCT and AT. I’m on track for my triple crown this June and plan to start the CDT at the end of the month. I’ve hiked the CT twice, from Glacier to Waterton and to Unita in Utah, so I’m familiar with much of what’s to come. These three Caminos: the Portuguese, the French and the Via Francigena are as different as the PCT, the AT and the CDT. There are similarities: you are guaranteed plenty of food, quality sleeping accommodations, and fairly well-marked trails.

If I were to compare the three Caminos to the Long Trails of America, I would say that the beauty of the PCT is on par with the Portuguese Route. It follows the coast, has beautiful open terrain and has enough people to keep you company.

El Francés is the best-known trail of the Camino. There are thousands of people annually who travel this route. It has varied terrain but, above all, it has a social aspect that cannot be ignored! You must make accommodations in advance or risk coming to town without room at the inn. It really reminds me of the AT with the camaraderie, the party atmosphere and the gastronomic bonus.

Via Francigena is a more spiritual experience with few pilgrims and much more self-sufficiency required. If what I have heard about CDT is correct, I would say that VF is comparable to CDT. You will have days where you may not see another hiker and if you don’t plan well, you may run out of water and food.

Every trail, whether in the US or abroad, is a gift to people seeking adventure and travel. I loved my trip to Italy, just as I have enjoyed my many trips over the years. Searching for new strips of dirt, gravel or pavers will always be my preference, but sometimes you don’t always get what you want! I’ll accept it anyway, as long as this body of mine allows it. See you next month, Arrivederci from Italy!