Rowdy Rocks in Rocksylvania – The Walk

Camping in the freezing cold can be uncomfortable, even with the right gear. But there is no piece of equipment that will improve camping on a hot, humid night. Even after a ton of rain the night before, we lay in our tent on a deflated air pad yearning for some draft to cool us down. When morning finally came, we were glad to get out of the damp, sticky tent and get going.

Waking up in wet clothes

All our equipment was wet. And I mean all that. Getting caught in a downpour just as we were starting to set up the tent was miserable. But we had a lot to wait for. A shelter about 17 miles away offered showers, laundry, supplies, and a dry line for gear… everything we needed to keep going. We each put on the previous day’s damp clothes and walked in the hot, humid weather. Buckets of sweat fell from each of us and I saw beads of sweat fall from the bill of my hat. Head down, one foot in front of the other. We were also doing well.

The Rattlesnake Killer

Despite the endless rocks along the Pennsylvania section of the trail, we arrived at the Rausch Gap Shelter for lunch before noon. The captain set up our tent and flew out to dry while I made a taco for lunch. While we were eating, the graffiti on the shelter caught our attention. Apparently, someone had illegally (and unethically) killed a rattlesnake that lives under the shelter. Warning leaflets about the snake still hung in the shelter. The snake poacher had writing all over the inside and outside of the shelter. It was the ramblings of conspiracy theorists ranting about a tyrannical government and «the snake has more rights than you.» It was strange and disturbing. Comments on FarOut said that this man had nailed the snake’s body to the side of the shelter. Fortunately that had been eliminated. It wouldn’t be until a few days later that we learned that the hiking community in Pennsylvania worked to give the correct authorities the name and location of this man. Let’s hope that justice is done properly.

Waiting for a break

We didn’t stay long at the Rausch Gap shelter. The plan was to walk to the Stay-at-Swatara hostel to spend a few hours doing chores and still have enough time during the day to walk a few more kilometers. So we packed up after lunch and got back on the road. The day was getting hotter… and hotter. The trail crossed a beaver dam that warned of flooding when it rains. We were concerned about the condition of the trail due to the storm we had experienced the night before. But fortunately we didn’t have to detour and the trail was still navigable. We made one last climb and descended to the hostel.

Hostel tasks

It was a great relief to sit in the shade and take off our backpacks. A section hiker was there and kindly gave us a quick tour and told us the owners would be back soon. I didn’t waste any time and took care of the housework. First was a shower and changing into borrowed clothes. I don’t think borrowing clothes generate enough publicity! Honestly one of my favorite things about hostels. Wearing clean clothes while doing laundry is very nice. Wearing a cotton shirt from time to time is an underappreciated luxury. As soon as I got out of the shower, Cody jumped in and I started doing the laundry. We had dinner, bought supplies from the lodge’s top-notch supply store… and then started to linger. Hikers know what I’m talking about. You are clean, well fed and too comfortable.

The Vortex claims another victim

We reminded each other of the campsite we had chosen a few kilometers ahead. We talked about how long it would probably take us to walk it. “We’ll leave when it gets cooler tonight,” we said as we then fooled around in the lodge for another hour… and another hour passed. This is called being sucked into «the vortex.» Cody spent his time calling his family and I sat in the shade enjoying the company of some hikers. Some familiar faces and some new. It was nice to spend the night in community with good people. And finally we gave up. In fact, that night we stayed at Stay-at-Swatara. We set up a tent in the yard and went back to sleep on our deflated mat.

Foot pain gets worse

The next morning we were packing up early. Because we had decided to shorten our hike the day before, we had a big day of hiking ahead of us. We had chosen campsite options 20 or 22 miles away. The trail didn’t have many elevation changes, but the rocky terrain made my feet beg for mercy! My second pair of Hoka Transports were on their last legs and gave me some protection from the sharp rocks. And then my situation got worse when I kicked the tent stake with my fourth toe. A few curse words were said quietly to each other as he hopped on one foot in the yard. I kicked it so hard it left a cut on the tip and bottom of my toe. He felt bruised and swollen. What should I do? I quickly fixed it with some gauze and a band-aid, put on my worn-out shoes, and started walking.

If we thought the last two days were tough, the next 20 miles of trail showed us how PA got its ‘Rocksylvania’ nickname. There was no respite. No flat sections. It went from small rocks to boulders and then to small rocks. We took off our shoes when we arrived at the William Penn Shelter for lunch. I took out a small tube of lotion and tried to massage my feet. My toe hurt. I got out the medicine cabinet and did what I could to give him some relief, but it didn’t help much.

Veto’s parents for victory

As we walked after lunch, we took in the beauty of the fern fields that line the trail. Bright green ferns stretched for miles as far as the eye could see. Just as we reached the 1200 mile marker, we unexpectedly ran into two friends! Veto and Lady Ivy caught up with us as we stopped on the trail, appreciating the 1,200 mile journey we’ve made so far. Veto let us know that his parents were relaxing packing them up and they were going to be at the crossroads with magic on the trail. I didn’t need to say anything else! We were sold! Suddenly my feet were able to withstand the rocks and pain with the promise of a cold drink and some snacks. We quickened our pace and walked with a little pep in our step. His parents were angels! We gobbled down a bunch of snacks and each washed it down with a cold Sprite! Something about a cold Sprite just hits different on the road.

When we say “the path will provide,” we mean moments like this. Even on days when we are tired, sore, and hungry, an angel comes with exactly what we need to lift our spirits and keep us motivated to keep walking just a little further. Despite the difficulties of the last few days, with the heat and the rocks, these are days that we will remember and feel proud of our perseverance. ‘Hug the pacifier’, as they say.

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