Days 60-63: Yosemite National Park to Kennedy Meadows North

General Trail Thoughts:

As I left Tuolumne Meadows I thought a lot about the hikers I met along the way. All the Europeans I met spoke excellent English. I speak American, but we all understood each other. Most of the hikers I met greeted me with a hello and it’s the little things that make it enjoyable. Stopping on the side of the trail for a 5-minute chat brightens the day and keeps it from being a lonely experience. I appreciate the people I have met and look forward to catching up with them about our shared experiences the next time our paths cross.

Day 60: Tuolumne Meadows Headed North

25 miles or so

From mile marker 943.7 elev 8599

Two mile marker 968.7 student 9462

Camping: Solo

People I walked with: Justine from Great Britain

I drove the van to Tuolumne Meadows and at 07:30 I separated from my lovely wife and headed to Sonora Pass. In Soda Springs I saw some very carefree deer that know they are safe here. Well, sure except for cars.

The trail paralleled the Tuolumne River and crossed it twice with nice bridges. The mosquitoes were plentiful and staying to take photos was not something I wanted to do.

The morning trail was gentle with some long gradual climbs through green meadows.

I had intended to stop before Benson Pass that day, but it was going so well that I decided to give it a try. Once over the pass I found a large campsite. Unfortunately for me, it was soon inhabited by hundreds of flying vampires. I quickly put on my rain gear to protect myself and set up my tent. The day ended up being great until the end.

Day 61: North of Benson Pass

22.5 miles or so

From mile marker 968.7 elev 9462

Two mile marker 991.2 student 8330

Camping: Mama Duck, Daffy, Neon and Mike

People I walked with: none

I got up at 05:00 hoping to wake up before the mosquitoes got up. Turns out I didn’t achieve that goal. The thing is, though, if you walk fast enough you’ll be able to outrun the little pests. So I did my best to hit 3 mph or more. The early morning provided many great views.

The mirror of Lake Smedberg calms down before the sun rises

Later that day I met Yoda after crossing a river and we chatted over lunch. That afternoon I arrived at the tent site I had planned to find some tents. There was a nice flat spot adjacent to the trail, but Yosemite wants hikers to be 100′ from the trail. Upon further investigation, the flat area had rows of pine needles, indicating that heavy rain had flooded it at one point. I found a less pleasant place, but one that a storm wouldn’t flood.
There I learned that Lucas, a 26-year-old Dane, was leaving the trail in Tahoe. He said he wasn’t going to get off the path the way he wanted and would come back later in life to complete it.

Day 62: Leaving Yosemite

20 miles or so

From mile marker 991.2 elev 8339

Two mile marker 1012 students 10,559

Camping: alone like a man on Mars

People I walked with: Mother Duck

I got up again at 05:10 and this time the mosquitoes were practically absent. After 7 miles, I stopped at a rocky area to eat breakfast and drop off my wet gear. Some days the rainfly is wet, other days it’s a footprint or the inside of the tent. Anyway, if there is a little sun, things will dry in about 20 minutes.

While I was eating, the hikers I camped with walked by. Lucas stopped to chat and I asked him about hiking in Denmark. I learned that there are no hills and much less mountains. I tried to convince him to go to the middle of the trail, since we were only a few hundred miles from the 1330 mile point on the trail. Of course, once you’ve completed all that, a reasonable person could finish it too. I think it was on me.

I soon passed Dorothy Lake heading towards Dorothy Lake Pass and the end of Yosemite.

Dorothy Lake: Too many mosquitoes to swim in

Later that day I arrived at the Walker River with a dodgy bridge to cross.

The Walker River Bridge

After crossing the bridge I took a lunch break and while my delicious dehydrated food was rehydrated I took a dip in a side channel of the river. No need to be a stinky hiker! On the way I passed 1000 miles and there is a boring sign on a pole saying so. Instead, there was a much more interesting rock layout for 1001 miles!

Phew! 1001 miles are 1 better than 1000 miles!

Later that day I met up with Mama Duck and we chatted for a while at a stream where we filtered water. We both headed to tent sites above 10,000 feet in preparation for reaching the Sonora Pass the next day.

My tent site nestled among the white pines.

The terrain was shale and mostly devoid of vegetation except for the wind-tortured pines.

A wild and desolate area.

I set up camp at 4:00 even though it was only 6 more miles. I suspected those 6 miles would be tough.

Day 63: Sonora Pass and Kennedy Meadows North

6 miles or so

From mile 1012 elevation 10,559

Two mile marker 10,018 students 9553

Camping: Marnie at Camp Baker

People I walked with: none

I got up at 0515 and it was a cool morning in the low to mid 20s. I set off in my windproof pants and quickly discovered that yesterday’s slushy snow crossings had turned to ice. Well, that’s when I started to regret not bringing my microspikes. Yes, a total mistake. If I had crossed when it was muddy I would have liked them, but ice is exactly what they were designed for and I left them to Marnie. I normally try to do 20-24 minute miles and now I was doing slow and agonizing 35 minute miles. One slip could result in a 100-yard slide on hard ice all the way to the rocks!

I later learned from Yoda that he had slipped and cut his hand on the ice.

I think this was Lucas followed by Mama Duck.

There were many fields of icy snow to cross, but I was soon at Kennedy Meadows North for a hot shower, laundry, and food.

They let you know where hikers feel they belong.

In all seriousness, I understand why you don’t want hikers and their backpacks on your front porch. The food was very tasty with generous portions at a good price.

The ribs with all the fixings were much needed calories.

Tomorrow I would be back on the 75 mile drive to Lake Tahoe.

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