Bear Butte – The Hike

June 16. Centennial Trail Day 10.

It was a little cold this morning! I went to sleep in just underwear and a t-shirt, then finally had to put on my fleece hoodie, zip up the hood, and close the collar of the quilt. I think it was because we were in a low spot in the camp next to the creek. However, I had set my alarm for 5:15 and was up and ready, out of camp and on the road by 6:33. Renee had left about 20 minutes earlier, and the other hiker, well, that girl set her alarm for 4:00 am and left camp so early that I didn’t hear a peep. So, I sipped my morning smoothie, filled my water bottles, and started walking alone.

The last group of trees up to Fort Meade

This morning the mosquitoes were terrible. I go home with probably 10 new bites. The trail wound and wound around the last tree-covered hill between here and Bear Butte before finally descending into Fort Meade. The trail was strangely sandy up there, like beach sand. It was a fun trail, pretty easy, but I felt like I hadn’t made any progress towards Bear Butte, lol. There are bike trails weaving along this stretch, but the Centennial Trail is well marked.

Looking towards Sturgis

At about 8:00 am I ate a Snickers. On the road you can eat as many Snickers as you want, whenever you want. I took the first 6 miles to Fort Meade pretty slow, giving my knee time to warm up and not damage it further after the beating I took it yesterday. However, it felt very good, strong. I found Renee at the Fort Meade trailhead. She kindly waited for me there at my request in case I had knee pain. However, since I was fine, I simply used the toilet, smeared on some DEET and continued.

Former barracks at Fort Meade

Pioneers on our way across the prairie

The trail after Fort Meade heads towards Bear Butte now in earnest, no more switchbacks, just a straight shot up that mountain. However, in true pioneer style, here you must pay your dues to South Dakota and cross miles of open prairie. That’s why we set out early this morning: to beat the heat of the day in this shadeless expanse.

One last look at the trees of the Black Hills National Forest

Bear Butte rises in the distance, slowly approaching. We share the meadow with a herd of cows. The cows and calves gave us dirty looks at first, then wandered down the path in front of us, and finally separated completely. Carsonite trail trust markers across the entire prairie were broken or crushed into the ground. I think cows like to crush them just for fun. We met two ladies on horses. They were very interested in what we were doing and congratulated us when they knew we were almost finished.

These signs are no match for livestock that use them as scratching posts.

Cows lead the way

Getting to Bear Butte

Soon Bear Butte Lake appears, you circle around it and arrive at the Bear Butte campground, a barren place with no shade except for a picnic table under a tree. We dropped in here for a quick snack before the last kilometer to the Visitor Center. I took my vehicle key out of my backpack, so it would be ready for when we caught up with her in the parking lot. The plan is to leave our backpacks in my vehicle and continue the climb to Bear Butte without them. I mean, why carry that thing up there if you don’t have to? I have no problem finishing the tour without it. I still walked miles, all I really need now is my phone, my key and my trekking poles for the descent. The Centennial Trail technically ends at the top of Bear Butte, 1.8 miles from the Summit Trailhead at the bottom.

Bear Butte rises clearly from the prairie, with its lake resting at the base

Cactus in bloom!

Making the final approach to the Visitor Center and my vehicle

We found my vehicle in the same place we left it, which is always a relief. We put our backpacks in the back and briefly entered the Visitor Center to enjoy a shower, clean hands, and air conditioning before beginning the final stretch of this trail. The gentlemen working inside ask us to sign their log book and ask us a few questions, seeming quite interested in our choice of shoes. We answer your questions and thank you for using the facilities and for taking care of my vehicle over the last 10 days.

Now is the time to do this! We started climbing and made it to the top without really taking any breaks. We just go at a good pace and feel strong and weightless without our backpacks. The trail is lined with prayer flags, as it is a sacred site for Native Americans. We reached the top, with a nice wooden viewpoint at the top. We found our hiking partner up there, celebrated with her, and took some necessary photos before descending. We take a moment of quiet reflection on our achievement and respect for the place in which we find ourselves. With the trail now complete, the helicopter can now come to take me off this mountain. Just kidding, we’re not THAT much of a bogie!

We did it!

To the north and east it’s just grassland as far as the eye can see.

I want to mention how windy and hot the day had become. As we crossed the prairie, it became increasingly windy, and at the top of Bear Butte the gusts threatened to blow us off the trail and knock off our hats. I had to wrap my beanie over my hat to keep it from blowing away in the wind (albeit with extra sun protection!). In no time we were back at the bottom and celebrating a job well done. The Centennial Trail is now another closed chapter in my backpacking life, and I had a great time! 14 miles of trail today, with another annoying unofficial descent of almost 2 miles. Now for the ice cream!!!

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