People often imagine long-distance hiking as a great adventure, with stunning views, unforgettable sunrises, magical trails, freedom, and walking all day long. And honestly, it really is. But then comes the fourth month.
On the PCT, people call it North Cal Blues. At the CDT, we found ourselves fighting exhaustion as we hiked through the stunning Wind River Range. It seems like every long trail has that point where your biggest challenge is no longer physical. Rather, it becomes a mental game.
One day you realize that this is no longer a vacation or even an adventure. It’s just your daily life. You wake up, pack your tent, walk, eat, walk some more, set up camp, go to sleep, and do it again the next day. After months on the road, something you’ve dreamed about for years slowly becomes your routine and with that comes something that people don’t really talk about.
First comes the overwhelming physical exhaustion. Then, just when your body finally starts to adjust and finds its second wind, mental fatigue sets in.
There comes a point where the trail just becomes…familiar. Not because it stops being beautiful, but because your brain adapts to that beauty. Another forest. Another rise. Another view. Instead of thinking, “Wow,” you catch yourself thinking, “Oh…another hill.” And on the Appalachian Trail, thanks to the infamous PUDs (meaningless ups and downs), there are plenty of those. I think the famous Green Tunnel finally caught up with us too.
To be completely honest, the last few days have felt a little repetitive as far as the scenery goes. It’s not that the Appalachian Trail isn’t beautiful. Absolutely it is. We had been here for four months and suddenly everything started to seem the same. And then, as if that weren’t enough, everything else seemed to start falling apart.
Several people on our tram were injured and the group naturally broke up. Suddenly everyone was walking at their own pace and we are alone and missing our friends.
Then came my shoe saga… My old shoes were completely worn out, so I ordered a new pair and even paid more for faster shipping. First my order was cancelled. Then the replacement shipment continued to be delayed. There wasn’t a single supplier nearby where I could buy another pair, and customer service doesn’t exactly work on the weekends. So there was no choice but to keep walking. In the end, I covered another 150 miles in shoes that had almost no tread left. My right foot definitely paid the price. It started to hurt and some of it went numb. I hope it is excessive use and everything returns to normal.
Situations like this are especially frustrating on a hike. Every day you move further north while constantly trying to figure out which city to send your shoes to next, whether you will get there before the post office closes or if you will have to change the delivery again. The logistics alone were enough to make our heads spin.
Fortunately, everything worked out in the end. My shoes finally arrived and as an apology they even sent me an extra pair.
And as if all that wasn’t enough, the East Coast was hit by a brutal heat wave.
The heat alone would have been manageable, but the humidity takes everything to another level. It feels like walking into a laundry room. You are soaked from the moment you step out of your tent to the moment you fall asleep at night. And when it finally rains, it’s really refreshing. Here you are basically wet all the time, whether from sweat or rain.
When we drove into Lee, Massachusetts, to pick up my new shoes, we passed a motel with a pool. That was it and the decision was made. A day at the pool was exactly what we needed.
Swimming is probably the best recovery a hiker can ask for. My favorite part of hiking without a doubt. We spent two days almost exclusively on the water, waited out the worst of the heat, and gave ourselves permission to stop thinking about miles for a while. Sometimes you don’t need to try harder. Sometimes you just need to remember why you love this lifestyle in the first place.
After years of hiking, we’ve learned that the fourth month is always more about your mind than your body. This is not the first time we have gone through this. The excitement fades, routine sets in, motivation wanes, and you start to wonder why you’re doing this in the first place.
BUT we have also learned something else. These phases always pass. And the fifth month will be fantastic again!
Quitting smoking has never been an option for us.
At least not unless we are seriously injured and physically unable to continue. Until then, we keep walking because we know that things always change over time. PUDs are not just in the way. Sometimes they are in your head too.
Right now we are entering New England. 
It’s strange to realize that we’ve already come this far. Only four states remain.
Part of us can’t wait to see what awaits us. Another part is already a little bittersweet. Each step brings us closer to Katahdin, but also brings us closer to the end of another adventure that will change our lives.
We’ll see what the North awaits us.
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