Days 0 – 5 – Border and Return

Yesterday afternoon and evening was very fun. Nearly 20 strangers from around the world gathered at the Lion’s Den and spent hours around tables and under awnings. It was a meeting of lifelong friends. We laughed at our funny type 2 stories from previous hikes. The beginners thought we were crazy but we were not deterred in the least.

Meriwether and I continued our midnight hiking tradition and retired to our tent long before the sun set. The happy chatter, the wind through the trees, and the birds singing at dusk were beautiful white noise that lulled me to sleep.

Lion didn’t open the den until about 6:30 this morning. More time to talk, barely enough time for the coffee to get things moving.

The drive up to Harts Pass was pretty fun. We shared the pickup with 5 other hikers, 7 in total. Being the older hikers, Meriwether and I were in the taxi. There was probably a 20 degree temperature drop between Mazama and Harts Pass, an advantage of being older.

We started walking with Bria, she was eating takeout and soon left us behind. Cole caught us a little later, then Beer Money and finally Flash. Flash stayed pretty close and we enjoyed our time with him.

There was more snow on the ground than I expected. Getting through it wasn’t too difficult, but we took it easy anyway. After the snow came the aperitif. Both will be worse tomorrow.

We and the mountains were shrouded in fog, there were no views most of the day. A few times the clouds lifted or we descended enough and we were rewarded with wide views of the valley. As far as we can see, there are no roads or development.

We arrived at the camp later than we thought. The snow and blowdowns really slowed us down. I was surprised that none of the other young hikers caught us. They arrived at the camp during the next few hours.

I’m worried about the snow tomorrow. Takedowns just take time, slipping in the snow is bad. The camp setup went well despite our rusty skills. Right now I’m exhausted and the temperature is perfect for sleeping.

Yesterday afternoon I was exhausted. We ran into someone we met a few days ago and his beta on the road baffled me. I forgot to write about the herd of deer trying to steal hiking poles. I forgot to write about all the other hikers at camp and the great stories they told. I guess there’s plenty of time to revisit it.

Tonight I’m exhausted. Mentally and physically. We hiked over 18 miles through patchy snowfields and through a large number of landslides. They both slowed our pace to about a mile per hour. The PCT is evoking New Hampshire and Maine right now.

Pot Luck made it across.

The road, although grueling today, was much easier than any of the reports we had received. There were some high consequence snow traverses, micro peaks and a little caution made them quite easy. There were many, many falls. The few dozen hikers ahead of us left signs that we quickly learned to read.

The campsite is full. Four of us arrived at the border today, the rest will arrive tomorrow. It seems like a good group. A mix of experienced and newbies. A mix of Americans and internationals, I am very pleased with the large number of foreign visitors who love what the United States has to offer.

Our photographer didn’t tell me my pose was ridiculous. I guess you get what you pay for.

I’m excited to finally be walking in the right direction. For those of you who may not know, the closest we could get to the border was 31 miles. We walked 31 miles north so we could walk 2,650 miles south. Tomorrow we will retrace a few more kilometers. The next day we should embark on a new path.

Happy trails!

Easily half the snow we crossed yesterday is gone today. In some places this made it easy, in others it was more difficult. We used micro spikes during most of the snow.

The fog and clouds lifted today and we were rewarded with some incredible views. The mountains and forests stretch forever. We had lunch looking south and I wondered what mountains we would find.

Song Bird passed us while heading north towards the border. We met her at the Lion’s Den and she knew who we were. One of her friends had recently stayed at our house with Cherry and Keebler. Small world.

The miles were mostly easy today. I think my body is still tired from yesterday. Tomorrow should be easier, but the options are 11 for Harts Pass or 16 for the next tent area. It’s good to have options.

We share a campsite with a young couple who have camped every night in the same place as us and we have talked to many along the way. They are on their honeymoon. What a honeymoon.

A few more hikers appeared right after we entered the tent. However, I had just taken a shower and was too tired to get dressed. We don’t greet each other, maybe in the morning.

Good night.

Cool night, excellent sleep.

Unfortunately, we took our time breaking camp this morning. The light drizzle startled me a little. Why was the tent still up, why were our kitchen things and the day’s food scattered around? I hurriedly took the tent down and put it away, then threw all the other stuff into my backpack. Today was supposed to be beautiful, the rain was supposed to end yesterday. I thought it never rained on the PCT.

It rained all morning. We stopped by Flash’s store a few HOURS later. When he caught up with us during lunch, he said he wanted to stay in his tent until the rain stopped, but he finally relented.

We had lunch back at Harts Pass. The ranger stamped our permits, talked to us about fire and food safety, and wished us a safe trip.

The sun also came out at Harts Pass and our tent dried out while we ate and sorted all the food we had left there.

The trail out of Harts Pass was beautiful. The sun shining over the valley and distant peaks was a welcome change from the last few days.

We passed a group of hikers heading north. Some go out for a day, others for a few days. I could see three hikers in front of us, one had to be Flash. The other two ended up stopping at the same campsite as us. They are off for a few days.

There were two incomplete snowfields today and I know there will be one tomorrow. We look forward to the first day without landslides, without micropeaks and with a blue sky.

We took advantage of the icy, fast-moving stream near the site. After filtering the water, we soaked our feet until they became numb.

Our day spa.

Our camp is on the east side of a huge mountain. The temperature dropped at 7 as the sun set behind the mountain. Sunset is at 9. Tonight might be the first night we go to sleep with a bit of darkness.

The couple we shared camp with, Emily and Julian, showed up while we were making dinner. We exchanged jokes and looked forward to seeing more of you.

Tonight I feel even less tired and beat up. I hope that means another good night’s sleep and a strong tomorrow.

Happy trails!

The shortest day so far. I’m exhausted. Meriwether didn’t like the climb to Methow Pass. The rain comes again. There is water in this campsite and not in the next one. We set up the store at 2 in the afternoon.

Last night, while going to the bathroom, I noticed that the clouds in the distance were glowing. There were stars above me. At first I couldn’t figure out what was causing the glow. There are no nearby cities. A forest fire? As I watched further, mesmerized, an orb began to rise beneath the cloud. Big moon, maybe full. I looked at it for quite a while.

We get up early even without alarms. Going to bed at 7 or 8 may have something to do with it. Sleeping on the floor could be too.

Today started with another incomplete snowfield. At least this morning it was crispy and not slushy. We are becoming very efficient at placing our micro spikes, a skill I never sought.

After passing the Glacier, which we could not see due to the fog, we began the descent into the valley. As we descended, the sun began to rise and the brush grew thicker. Steep descent on one side completely hidden by thick undergrowth. I’ve heard that the number one reason for leaving the PCT is an injury from a fall in Washington.

We walked along two beautiful streams and through enchanted forests before finally reaching Flash. Sleep late and walk late.

Around 5 I thought I heard the huge deer I saw earlier. I peeked my head out of the store and there were Bria, Julian, and Emily. I knew Julian and Emily would show up, but I was surprised to see Bria.

The five of us told stories until too late. Time to sleep.

Happy trails!

This morning was heartbreaking. I’ve used that word a lot in recent days. The trail was washed out for about 10 meters in a very steep scree field. Then there was more snow. Now I know why all those hikers I met one week who had just finished this section seemed so shocked. The first 5 miles today were very scary, I can only imagine what it was like a week ago.

Get closer and you can see Meriwether. This was one of the easier sections.

We celebrated the end of the snow about a mile early. After passing the last layer of snow, we found it ironic that all day hikers were excited to get to the pass to experience the snow, while we were so grateful to be able to get off the pass away from the snow.

Then 5 easy miles to a great magical trail. Warner and Abbie met us at Rainey Pass to hike and camp with us. They also brought tasty soft drinks and chicken fillet.

We hung out in the parking lot for about an hour enjoying the treats and waiting for our gear to dry. Yes, it rained all night.

Without snow, without slopes and with an excellently maintained downhill path, we reached our camp very well. Warner and Abbie feasted on gourmet food while Meriwether and I ate ramen. No sacrifice is too much for our children.

Shortly after finishing dinner, our new friends arrived, the German couple. It turns out that Julian went to school at the same place as Warner and Abbie. The conversation focused on how we can use our time for the best purpose. I think it’s being kind and having fun with those around you.

Everyone’s favorite trail dog, Pippa.

I am grateful for my children and all the other wonderful people I have been able to be with.