The TMB was going to be a reality test on the slope the first two days. I dug deeper and resolved to flex my mental acuity! The first day (June 19) was ambitious for a start to any hike with 4,528′ of ascent and a descent of 5,217′. In 12.9 miles. We walked from Les Houches to Gite d’etape du Pontet still in France. The weather was 78 degrees and sunny. I started my hike with Bella from Austin, but soon parted ways when I realized she was super human in her walking ability. Those who know me know that not only do I have solid pace for an older guy, but I also enjoy putting in the miles. I also know not to exceed my pace! Enter Jordy and Charlotte from Australia! The three of us finally caught up with Bella at our cabin. Bella is a runner and being close enough to Colorado, she often climbs fourteeners in Colorado. She is one of the strongest hikers I have ever hiked with, did I mention that not only does she get out of breath, but I don’t think she sweats either? Returning to the trail, the views are always stunning, but as we walked south (in the opposite direction or, when in Europe, counterclockwise), we lost sight of Mount Blanc. Our first cabin served a beautiful four-course dinner, including dessert. Prosciutto and melon, roast pork and potatoes, vegetables and chocolate cake! The bunk area was comfortable, semi-private and they also had great showers and laundry facilities. I washed some clothes by hand and hung them to dry. Since weight wasn’t an issue, I brought two days’ worth of clothes, so I planned to wash every night and rotate underwear, socks, shorts, and a stylish wool t-shirt.
The second day (June 20) we left (Jordy, Charlotte, Bella) passing through Elise Norte Dame de la Gorge in Contamines. We followed a glacial stream up the mountain to our next hill. This area was very bucolic and when I dreamed about this walk the background music was those melodic cowbells. The ringing of bells resounded joyfully throughout the valleys. The start of the wildflower season is off to a great start with meadow rue, yellow buttercup, purple gentian, marsh marigolds, alpine daisies, violet bellflowers and white saxifrage. My new Australian friends enjoyed having a hiker who knows their botany! Bella has an incredible spirit and a love of adventure. I often went on hikes that added up to four to seven miles on an already ambitious day! We crossed several fields of snow as they receded into fields of green grass. The first step was du Bonhomme when we passed the Croix refuge. Our next Col was Bourg St. Maurice, where we would enjoy refreshments while waiting for our transport into the city at the Base Camp Hotel. We checked in and had enough time to shower and do laundry before dinner. That day, we ascended another 4,232′ with a descent of 2,900′ in 10.3 miles. Since this was a hotel, not a cabin, the menu was extensive! I had one of the best Caesar salads ever, followed by skirt steak, carrot salad and French fries, followed by a delicious pistachio flan. A good night’s sleep and a buffet breakfast in the morning that I knew could not be rivaled in any cabin! He was right, but that doesn’t mean I would ever be disappointed! Since it is common to have these wonderful baguettes, meats and cheeses for breakfast. I made a sandwich for later and put it in my fanny pack, the other hikers saw it and followed suit with my opportunistic hiker trash tactics! I never intended to be a role model, they learned about washing sinks too!
Stay tuned for day three: Italy!
Happy trails! Cat
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