An implacable ascent to Switzerland through the Great Col Ferret brings the best views so far and I have my first Swiss fondue – day 5 in the Tour du Mont Blanc


Walking for the last of Italy

The day began with us coming early from our nice bungalow in large camping. Although we have been walking through a heat wave that has brought us an incredible climate in general, the afternoons have been unbearably hot. Although we have been arriving at our destinations for the day very early, it has made hiking more pleasant.

The peaks bathed by the sun greet us early in the morning after leaving the great camping Jorasses

Great Jorasses Acampando is within the valley, so we lost about 1500 feet that we had to recover to meet the TMB path again. Breakfast for us was a sad bar of Granola, but the plan was to obtain a delicious refreshment to Rifugio Bonatti to compensate for it. It would be our last sandwiches in Italy.

Once we met the path, we wandered along the green hillside through the forest and the colorful wild flowers. The river in the valley under it shone. We saw the mountain range wake up while the sun kissed the tops of the snowy peaks. We had loneliness this morning, which is weird on this path. It was so peaceful. In silence I whispered a «thank you.»

Loneliness and beauty of Italy
Vance and the incredible view of the valley that we would leave behind

Rifugio Bonatti had to offer the basic TMB products: coffee, chocolate, bread and pringles. Breakfast should be chocolate and pringles! We ate light since we knew we had a great climb ahead. From the first day, we have strategically planned that our meals/snacks are in any way before a climb so that we can digest or at the top of the climb before a descent. This has been an advantageous strategy.

Attractive photo of mine chewing a basic TMB element: Pringles!

The climb to the great Coran Ferret

Finally, we arrive at the floor of the Valley passing the picturesque villa Val Ferret and began the rise to the great Col Ferret. Literally, we left the valley just to return to the valley and now we return from the valley and on a pass. He made Vance and I laughed.

There were a lot of traffic of paths, which was expected. The path was steep, which seemed to be an issue with this path … win and lose all its elevation at once. Multiple use paths covered the hillside while we tried to navigate through the crowds on the official TMB path. We ran here and there opening the way through hikers to Rifugio Elena, which was the midpoint of this long climb.

All the smiles with wind in the face in Rifugio Elena

We stopped here to enjoy the incredible views of the snowy peaks and the glacier that rose on the rifuge. What we did not know was that this was nothing compared to the opinions we would experience at the top of the climb.

Taking everything in Rifugio Elena

This is where everything got spicy. We have been and we are always inflexible about staying on the official path and not using any shortcuts, but not all follow the same protocol. We had to boost our faster rate than we wanted several times to overcome large hiking groups to cut the path so as not to be trapped behind them.

The climb was that you guessed it super steep and was the epitome of the «false summits.» It simply never ended. It was one of those climbs where you had to lower your head, concentrate and not speak. I would have a «Bonjour» and «Merci» in a low voice as it passed and lifted my head from time to time to enjoy the view to remember why I am doing this.

Entrance to Switzerland

The top of the great Col Ferret marked the entrance to Switzerland from Italy and the views were the best we had witnessed along the way until now. It was worth it. We sat down and had snacks under the blue skies, the warm sun and the cooling winds. It really wasn’t better than this.

Views from the great col ferret
Gran Col Ferret: It is not better than this!

The descent of the other side was much more indulgent. Switzerland greeted us with bright green hills, the bells of the grazing cows and the avalanche of melted water running along the slope of the mountain.

The descent in Switzerland to Gite Alpage de la Peule

We arrived at our house at night, Gite Alpage de la Peule, who had homemade ice cream, coffee and the classic Switzerland. I didn’t even know what I asked. I pointed out the only meatless option. It was literally one of the best dishes I have had on the way and maybe in my life. It was absolutely delicious and how great experience the food of another culture that is homemade with love!

Swiss fondue in our house at night
Swiss fondue made with love

The warmth and kindness we feel of the staff was overwhelming. This would be our first experience in the bedroom and, surprisingly, we both sleep deeply during the night. I just listened to a hoarse! Breakfast was abundant. I was going to get used to eating so well along the way!

Delicious breakfast at the peule alpage

As I reflect with many days of trails for the end, I recognize that this is not just the Tour du Mont Blanc. This is the tour of French and Italian culture. This is the route of the delicious food made with love. This is the tour of the cows, sheep and mountain grazing goats. This is the journey of his life and I can’t believe he is living it!

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